Right now I have my computer hooked up to two sets of I/O devices (mouse, keyboard, monitor) and I was wondering if you can separate them so that for example I can surf the web on one set and have a friend play a game on the other. Currently they show and control the same things.
Both monitors are on the same graphics card, one mouse/keyboard is USB the other PS/2
Thanks for any help.
Nope, there is only one console manager. Since you already have the monitor and keyboard, why not find a cheap machine and just have two?1 more replies
Last week I bought a new computer headset. It is an Altec Lansing headset (just one of those cheap ones that you get from WalMart). And everything was working great. But my computer also has an on-board microphone, so when plugged in (I have front headphone (x2) and microphone (x1) jacks), the headset overrode the on-board mouse. I was using sound recorder and the program audacity to make sure the headset worked and all. And it worked perfectly fine.
But today, I went to open Audacity, and my entire computer froze. I let it sit for a while until it became apparent that it wasn't going to unfreeze, so I had to hard-shut it down. But now I've discovered that ANYTHING that has to do with audio input freezes the computer.
- I can't open Audacity, sound recorder, or any other recording device.
- I can open the audio devices manager via right clicking on my volume icon, but if I select "recording devices" as what I want to open it freezes. If I select Volume or Sound, it opens fine, but as soon as I click the Recording tab, it comes up, I can see the mic is enabled, and there's another realtek thing that's disabled, but the computer automatically freezes.
- I can open the Realtek HD Audio Manager, but if I click the "Microphone" tab, the computer freezes.
I checked for updates on the audio-related drivers that I could find, but none of them had available updates at all. So I have absolutely no clue what to do.
I'm running a HP Pavilion... Read more
I have a Dell D610 laptop w/ XP Pro SP2... or had.
I have a corrupted registry entry hosing the keyboard input. The mouse works fine up until the point when I kit the first key on the keyboard when under the Graphical Windows interface. After I hit any key, the mouse freezes as well. This happens if I use the laptop keyboard or an external keyboard connected to a PS2 jack.
I have performed hours of troubleshooting and it is not the keyboard hardware. Keyboard input works during all non-graphical UI (BIOS, Recovery Console, etc.). I even removed the drive and plugged it in to another computer. I made a copy of the WINNT\system32\config files (sam, default, security, system, software) and replaced them w/ a copy of these files from WINNT\repair. The computer boots to Graphical Windows and I am able to type in this session just fine.
How can I "erase" the keyboard driver corruption in the registry (or perhaps a corrupted driver file or set of files)? The problem is that I can't boot the system to a point where I can edit the "corrupted" keyboard entries. I can't use the Recovery Console because I don't have the Administrator password. So I tried to install SP3 from a bootable CD. The minute it asks me to type in the Product Key (a graphical dialog box), input is frozen a the first keystroke (even a key like Caps Lock). Can I actually edit the registry that resides on the boot drive while it is connected to another computer? Any other suggest... Read more
When streaming Netflix, my computer is registering as a new device each time I play a movie. The Device ID is different when I check on all my registered devices (the only device that uses my account is my one computer). I have not changed any settings, reinstalled Windows, or made any drastic changes in the system. I do not use a router and am using Cox Communications as my ISP.
Does anyone know why this is happening? Does anyone have a solution?
For more detailed information, the original topic is posted here:
I was informed by the admin "Animal" to re-post in this forum.
Thank you for any help.
Have you contacted Netflix about this issue?1 more replies
I have been using Netflix for a few months. What I have noticed is that I will reach my device activation limit (6 is the max, I believe) rather quickly--specifically, it will tell me I have reached it after streaming 6 shows/movies. Apparently, my computer is being registered as a new device every time I stream a new show/movie.
I am wondering why this is, and how it can be fixed. The only solution I have found is to deactivate every device I have registered with Netflix (which is just my one computer I use for streaming)--only then will it allow me to watch another show/movie. This is a hassle, and if this is the only way, then that is alright. What I am most interested in is the reason my computer could be registering as separate devices like this. I can think of a few possibilities:
-Computer is registering by a dynamic IP address set by the ISP (I do not use a router)
-Computer is registering as a new device by some other means
-Silverlight is somehow acting fishy (which this does not seem like a local problem like a program on my computer)
It must be noted that the device ID number listed on Netflix is different with each registration of a new device (even though it is the same device every time).
I am currently in Louisiana. I am using Cox Communications as an ISP. I do not use a router. I pay my own utilities (so this is not an aprt complex-specific problem as far as I can tell). This same issue occurred when streaming on a friend's Netflix account, so it is no... Read more
Should I re-post this in another forum that is more populated or that deals with problems like this?
Any help is welcomed.
Not sure whats happening here but getting multiple displays for the same devices !!!!
Any fix, or is system Broken.
Looks like Ghosts of DLNA devices. Start by taking offline any DLNA capable gear, reboot the Gateway and also clear its IP Table.
Also clear out those ghosts from Devices and Printers.
For some reason this started in Windows 7, when Microsoft started to play games with DLNA and media Shares.
I'm a new member to the forum, but need you guy's help desperately!
My PC basically consists of the following:
MoBo: ASUS P5N32-SLI Premium (nVidia Chipset)
CPU: Intel Pentium-D 3.4 GHz
GPU: MSI nVidia GeForce NX7950GT
HDD: 2 x 320 SATA-2, 1x160 IDE, 1 x 400 IDE (all sizes GB)
OS: WinXP Pro
Over the weekend, I made the absolute idiotic mistake of not paying particular attention when uninstalling by GPU's drivers (I wanted to install newer ones) and when Windows prompted me if I wanted to uninstall ALL nVidia drivers (including the chipset drivers), I clicked "YES" (without remembering at the time, that my chipset was also nVidia).
So, when my PC re-booted, it started to detect new hardware and came up with prompts wanting me to make certain selections (the usual New Hardware Wizard-sort-of-stuff). Only problem is, neither my keyboard nor mouse is responding to ANY input. Windows is sitting there waiting for me to make a selection in order to proceed and I am absolutely powerless to make any selections.
My normal keyboard/mouse setup is a Logitech Cordless Desktop setup (Bluetooth), but I also tried my previous Microsoft PS/2 keyboard, my previous USB mouse, even an older PS/2 mouse and a COM port Mouse. Nothing, nada!
(The PS/2 Keyboard works when I boot using a WinXP installation CD and select Recovery Console. I can type normally at the command prompt).
I will absolutely break into tears if I need to re-... Read more
Post deleted, because when I re-read your post, I realize I missed something in it and my suggestion was worthless.2 more replies
I had acer aspire 5110 WLMi and used it for 3 years. It now has a problem. I cant use keyboard, touchpad, other buttons, and all usb hoobs are not fuction from starting to log in window. No input signals from usb, keyboard, touchpad, and mouse can not be recognised. I thought it was the result of overheating because my cpu fan was slower than usual. Help me to figure out what part of computer was broken down. I disassembled all parts of computer but I dont have professional tools to test which parts are errors.
When using USB-C docking station on HP EliteBook Folio G1 Notebook PC the connected input devices (mouse and keyboard) hang on a regular basis. This means that my mouse would stop for a few seconds while pointing or keystrokes are not interpreted while typing. I have deleted all usb drivers from windows device manager, reinstalled the docking station using the drivers on the hp site and it does not fix the issue.Is the usb-C connection too slow to have and a display port connection and input devices on at the same time? Or is there something wrong with the drivers?Any other ideas to get this resolved? Many thanksMore replies
So while I'm on this site working on my own comp, I figured I try for some help with my sister's boyfriend's comp. He is a doctor, and his work comp had some fairly basic issues regarding him poorly implementing a "free" windows upgrade. At this point he simply needs to get it restored to it's working condition, as patient files and some very expensive medical software are on this machine. I told him it wouldn't be too much trouble to simply undo or fix whatever he messed up. Unfortunately, when I got the machine and hooked it up(took some digging around in my pile of cords to even find a VGA cable ), none of my input devices worked. After some fiddling around, I came to the conclusion that it was probably an issue of how old his relic was in comparison to my shiny new custom built desktop, seeing as how all my components are USB 2.0 PnP, and his relic has stickers boasting about USB 1.0. After some more digging, a friend of mine found an old PS/2 keyboard from a PackBell. This also did not work. I even got a hold of the mouse and keyboard from his office, and still no function. When a keyboard or mouse is plugged in at start-up, the LED/power indicator/etc. will light up just before the splash screen, but then just as Windows begins to load, the lights all turn off. The keyboards are unresponsive even during the splash screen, so I cannot even access the bios. Since they are receiving power, I don't see it as being a mobo issue, but I cou... Read more
LED/power indicator/etc. will light up just before the splash screen, but then just as Windows begins to load, the lights all turn off.Can the computer (HDD) be accessed in safe mode on startup, or is this also disabled - Thank You -3 more replies
***Note: I'm sorry for posting this again, but most everyone, including myself, like to pass up the Gaming forum. I'm sorry if this is a big problem for all of you, but I'm looking for answers, and I'm sure, if you've came across the topic you might have something to add.***
This is what I wrote:
The time has come for me to update my gaming devices. I'm looking for a good:
None of these are to be wireless.
My old junk isn't very responsive and isn't fast all the time in games. I use the logitech cordless duo (not the new mx one).
I need super fast responsive stuff.
I was thinking about the Mystify Boomslang 2100 but I can't find that anywhere to purchase in the US or even the earlier version 2000.
All suggestions welcome.
Boomslang has one problem: on all the boomslangs I sold, the button (the thing that makes the click sound when you press it) broke down, making the mouse useless. Apart from that (big) issue, it is a supermouse.
I've taken myself the challenge I've been avoiding for some time, creating a plattform for connecting a radio to your computer through the USB port.
So basicly I need to know if there is anyone here with any knowledge in this field who wants to answer a few questions, or if there is anyone who knows where to direct those questions...
The most important question would be how the signal has to be converted to be put through the USB connection. Followed by how to create the drivers needed to get the computer to understand these signals as soundsignals.
I'd greatly appreacitate any help, as I'm guessing it's not anything usual I'm asking about
My question would be, what are you trying to do? Are you trying to record the radio output into the computer?
USB connections are for Hardware. So you're saying that you want a radio to become a piece of hardware? Could you clarify?
just a minor problem but i'm unable to finish installation of xp pro,
i'm going for a dual boot sort of thing, so i run win 98se on C: and trying to install xp pro on D:
installation 's just fine untill the (advanced options -back/continue-) grey screen appears at which point i'm supposed to click or type my choice,but i have no mouse or keyboard input at all.
i installed latest xp drivers for my logitech's ps/2 mouse and keyboard with the same result.
any clue about this?
rebooting on win 98 everything works
I have a compaq 7360. My computer is not showing the display on the monitor. The keyboards num lock also does not turn on once started. The computer when turned on, displays the green light showing that the power is on and also the green light for the hard disk, but there is no display on the monitor, whose light is set to amber.
I'm not sure what the problem is. It just started after I restarted it a few days ago.
One of my friends sent me an IM telling me that this is the msg she keeps getting with one of her games (and I Have no idea what game it is). She told me it used to work. I told her to uninstall and then REINSTALL it. She did that and told me that as soon as she reinstalled, she got the msg.
I couldn't find anything on this. Anyone know what this means???
Hmm......might be givwen if she has USB keyboard and mouse, but does not have legacy turned on.....but note I say 'might'...lol
Tell her to enter the BIOS on boot up (F2, DEL, or whatever key it says to use....depends on computer), and when in there, navigate around using the keyboard and look for something like 'turn on USB legacy control' or something similar. Of course, if she can't navigate around and she DOES have a USB keyboard, she will need to use a USB to PS2 (round keyboard plug) converter and plug her k/b in like that to move around.
Of course, this may not be the case at all.....
I've had this error since installing Windows 7 64-Bit (see pic). I know it has something to do (driver) with a game port on my Creative Audigy SB card. I never use this port but see this error in Device Manager & curious how to detect & install whatever it needs.
Found the answer. No supported on Windows 7 64-bit.5 more replies
My mouse and keyboard freeze intermittently, so my mouse just freezes and the keyboard sometimes receives no input, sometimes acts like I'm still holding down the last button. The freezing happens about every 5 sec. when it's real bad and lasts 3-4 sec. (yes that?s more time with a frozen mouse then a working one)...
This has happened to me twice now and both times were right after playing Bioshock. The first time it went away after a reboot, but this time it continued after the reboot. I watch task manager on my second display constantly and there is no common spike when the freeze occurs, sometimes CPU usage is high, and sometimes it's low.
Now that I've started posting though is seems to have stopped, but trying to register took a long time with the constant freezing. My keyboard and mouse are both ps2 connected to a USB converter (my mother board only has 1 ps2 connector).
What keyboard/mouse do you have? Have you tried updating drivers in Device Manager?
I am looking for a tablet running windows 10 (or upgradable to windows 10) that supports pen input (for note taking)
I know the surface pro 4 is amazing at that, but it is a massive overkill for a device centered in note taking.
The surface 3 is still too much, but could be an option.
Does anyone have experience with other devices that fall in this category?
Dell Venue was pretty good with their pen, so long as you get a revised edition pen.
This thread has been moved to an appropriate forum...
As per this advice: Who should post in the Ask a Question forum? WC members are free to post in all areas of the board. Please use Ask a Question only for time critical help issues that affect the immediate functionality of your device.
Okay I couldnt really find a better place for this :[ Sorry
What do you guys think about using brain waves as a form of computer input?
I read in a magazine article (that I couldnt find online..) that the average response for a gamer using a keyboard and mouse is ~150ms. However, in a test with a gamer using a brain wave input device which had the brain waves mapped to the keyboard and mouse, and only using the mouse for pointing (not clicking it), reaction time was ~50ms.
I want it!!
I'm going to assume this is a hardware problem. I'll start from the beginning. I plugged in my cell phone via a USB cord to transfer some stuff to it, and everything on my computer froze. My keyboards backlight turned off and my mouse wouldn't respond. Nothing was doing anything.
I shut down my computer using the power button on the front. It started booting up, I could hear the fans and the hard drive, but nothing turned on. The keyboard stayed unlit and the monitor didn't even come on. It's like nothing is getting any power. I'm starting to freak out a little bit....
I'm running Windows XP Home dual booted with Ubuntu Hardy, Dell Dimension 3000, 2.8Ghz P4 processor, 2GB RAM, ATI Radeon 9250.
Any idea what's going on? Any help is much appreciated.
9 more replies
I don't think ive put this in the right place but heres my problem.
I wanted to play music through Ventrilo without having to install Virtual Audio Cable. I came across this video: YouTube - Playing music on vetrilo using Windows Vista
I did everything in the video and it worked in Ventrilo. Now, I want to talk through my microphone again so i went to Recording Devices to reactivate 'Realtek Device Input' but I found it has vanished. I made sure i can see disabled devices and disconnected devices but I still can't find it.
I tried reinstalling the driver from realtek with no success.
Here is what it looks like:
I really need help on this one ASAP
A continuation from this topic: http://www.bleepingcomputer.com/forums/topic434011.html. So far have run Super Anti-Spyware, Malwarebytes, DDS, GMER, and SecurityCheck. Attach.txt seems to be too big to upload, should I split it? GMER also seems to stop halfway through the scan with a Windows error message and shuts down.
Hello and welcome to the forums!My secret agent name on the forums is SweetTech (you can call me ST for short), it's a pleasure to meet you. I'll be addressing you by your username, if you'd like me to address you by something else, please let me know!I would be glad to take a look at your log and help you with solving any malware problems.If you have since resolved the issues you were originally experiencing, or have received help elsewhere, please inform me so that this topic can be closed. If you have not, please adhere to the guidelines below and then follow instructions as outlined further below:Logs from malware removal programs (OTL is one of them) can take some time to analyze. I need you to be patient while I analyze any logs you post. Please remember, I am a volunteer, and I do have a life outside of these forums.
Please make sure to carefully read any instruction that I give you. Attention to detail is important! Since I cannot see or directly interact with your computer I am dependent on you to "be my eyes" and provide as much information as you can regarding the current state of your computer.
If you're not sure, or if something unexpected happens, do NOT continue! Stop and ask!
In Windows Vista and Windows 7, all tools need to be started by right clicking and selecting Run as Administrator!
If I instruct you to download a specific tool in which you already have, please delete ... Read more
The computer I'm trying to fix had the
"Windows XP could not start because the following file is missing or corrupt: \WINDOWS\SYSTEM32\CONFIG\SYSTEM"
error so I started the process detailed here.
I finished the work in the recovery console and am on part two. I boot into safe mode, but once I get to the desktop I can't do anything, as neither the mouse nor the keyboard work (both USB). I was going to try PS/2 but the computer has no PS/2 ports. Any ideas?
Have you tried plugging both the keyboard and mouse into different USB ports?8 more replies
I'm not very good with computers but I did manage to build my own PCs for a good few years. But I've come across this problem that has me and my friends stumped.
Basically booting up, the mouse and keyboard (hence, input devices) power up and can be used in the BIOS/POST screen (well the keyboard anyway). But when the Windows splash screen appears, they become unresponsive and aren't detected when I pull them out/put them in again. They are USB powered but I have tried this with non-faulty PS/2 ones and I get the same problem with that.
Without any input devices working, I can't use the PC to do stuff with.
The second of my woes is that when I try to install Windows I get a BsoD
I get this when the CD is loaded in and I am just about to select my drive for installation.
This problem has come on with a completely brand new system. i.e all parts are fresh out of the box. To compound the mystery, I bought other new parts of which are compatible with eachother and I still get the same error.
I consider myself an advanced user, but this one I've never seen, nor can I find info out for...
I haven't been able to plug a video camera or external hard drive into my computer via FireWire. I then tried a different cable, nothing. I then tried a different device and cable, nothing. I then tried a different computer with two devices, nothing.
My USB2.0 works fine with each device and computer. I also took the new computer into CompUSA and they tried their firewire device and all worked. I bought a new firewire cable, but I have the same luck with each device.
How can 2 external hardrives, and one sony camera not work, after working for a year. What happened? What do I need to do?
6 more replies
While trying to adjust the resolution I apparently picked a level that Windows hp doesn't like. My monitor now has a box which says input not supported floating around on it and no matter what I try (esc, control-alt-delete, restarting) I can't access my computer at all. PLEASE HELP!
[Personal Information Removed]
Hi there @145755, I hope you find your Support Forum experience a positive one! It is a great place to find the help you need, from other users, HP experts, and other support personnel. I understand that you have changed a setting on your computer and now the display is not working. I am happy to give you a hand with this. Please post the full product number for your computer. See the following, if you need help with that information. HP Desktop PCs - How Do I Find My Model Number, Serial Number or Product Number? I would suggest you try to start your computer in Safe mode to load basic screen settings. See this document: HP PCs - Windows Safe Mode (Windows 10, 8). As you are unable to see the display properly at this time you will need to follow the process described for "Entering Safe Mode without access to Startup Settings". If you are able to get in, then make the needed adjustments to your display settings, then restart your system normally to see if the display will come up properly. If not try a different screen resolution. Please let me know whether that works for you, and if it does resolve your issue, please mark this post as a solution. Kudos would also be appreciated.1 more replies
Windows Vista Home Premium 64-bit, Service Pack 2 (formerly Service Pack 1)
Gateway MD2614u Notebook
This computer will not recognize any of the USB input devices I plug into it:
--Microsoft Wireless Notebook Optical Mouse 3000 and USB transceiver (with and without IntelliPoint and drivers installed) - wireless
--Logitech V220 Optical Mouse (Model# M-RBS316) and USB transceiver (Model# C-UAY59) (with and without SetPoint and drivers installed) - wireless
--Wacom Intuos graphics tablet (Model# PTZ-430) (with and without drivers) - wired
--Logitech Optical Mouse (Model# M-T96a) - wired
All these devices work properly on other systems without any wrangling. (These other systems are running Windows XP.)
None of these devices are recognized by the system. They do not show up in Device Manager as an unknown device. When connected, the light on the device plugged into a USB port will flash once, then go dead. They do not work with any of the 4 USB ports, with and without corresponding drivers and software installed.
Other devices (flash drives, MP3 players) work properly on this system.
This problem has been persisting since purchase. Update to Service Pack 2 did not resolve this issue.
Device Manager reports 4 "Standard OpenHCD USB Host Controller" devices with the error message "This device cannot start. (Code 10)". I do not know if these are related; disabling and reenabling them did not re... Read more
Received support from Logitech; installed SetPoint software in a "clean boot" of Vista. Issue persists.
Thanks in advance for any and all responses.
I bought a used Toshiba Portege 7010ct. It has a USB port, but not the drivers for my jumpdrive.
Specs that might help:
Holds 2 5mmPC cards Type II or 1 10.5mm PC card Type III:
32-bit, 3..V pc cardbus support
15-bit, 5.0V pc card support
1 240-pin expansion bus
1 Kensington cable lock slot
1 external floppy drive port
1 USB port (not 2.0)
1 Infrared port (IrDA 1.1:4Mbps)
I/O 1 9pin serial (16550 Uart compliant)
1 25 pin parallel (8bit ecp)
It runs Win 98
All I really want is to get the driver for my flashdrive: PNY attache :knock: onto my Toshiba Portege 7010ct. I will explore most options but I really want this to cost as little as possible (@$10).
Can anyone suggest a:
LAN card 10/100 (that does not need drivers)
Floppy Drive (that does not need drivers)
Free dialup (that does not need a downloaded dialer)
CD Rom (that does not need a driver)
MSE recently detected a trojan after my friend gave me a link to a site and seems to have removed it. After restarting, all human interface devices stopped working (volume control, inbuilt keyboard and touchpad of the laptop). Fortunately, the USB keyboard and mouse still work...any help would be appreciated.
Thanks in advance.
Please download and run Security Check from HERE, and save it to your Desktop. * Double-click SecurityCheck.exe * Follow the onscreen instructions inside of the black box. * A Notepad document should open automatically called checkup.txt; please post the contents of that document.Malwarebytes Anti-MalwareNOTEMalwarebytes is now offering a free trial of their program, if you want to accept it you will need to enter some billing information, so that at the end of the trial you would be charged the cost of the product. Please decline this offer, if you are unable to provide billing information. If you want to try it out, then provide the billing information.Please download Malwarebytes Anti-Malware and save it to your desktop.Download Link 1Download Link 2MBAM may "make changes to your registry" as part of its disinfection routine. If using other security programs that detect registry changes (ie Spybot's Teatimer), they may interfere or alert you. Temporarily disable such programs or permit them to allow the changes.Make sure you are connected to the Internet.Double-click on mbam-setup.exe to install the application.
For instructions with screenshots, please refer to the How to use Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware Guide.When the installation begins, follow the prompts and do not make any changes to default settings.When installation has finished, make sure you leave both of these checked:Update Malwarebytes' Anti-MalwareLaunch Malwarebytes' Anti-M... Read more
I have a three year old inspron desktop running updated windows 8 Suddenly NONE of the input devices are working. I've tried several different wireless mice, and I've tried both a wired and wireless keyboard. NOTHING. I've tried unhooking all, rebooting, then hooking them back up... still nothing. Tried rebooting with them installed. Tried switching USB ports. ARRRGGGHHH. Since I have no keyboard I can't do safe start (don't even know if that works with windows8 ).
I do have a "repair disk" that I created when the compter was new.... tried rebooting with it in the drive.... didn't do anything other than restart the computer with the same non-functioning input devices.
I hear my external harddrive working... so it must be doing something... so I guess its not all USB devices that are down.
I did install new logitech software last week, but it worked fine for several days, just quit working when it woke from sleep. I'd love to uninstall it, or do a system restore, but I can't do that since the mouse is not working.
Any suggestions/help would be greatly appreciated.
If you reboot and immediately press F2, can you get into BIOS setup?
Try turning PC off, and unplugging. Disconnect everything, including the power cable from rear of PC.
Then press/hold power button for ~30 sec. Reconnect mouse, monitor and keyboard, and then connect power cable to rear of PC and try to boot
See if that helps.
Man, have I got a weird one for you. First thing first, I am by no means un-tech-savvy, so feel free to use technical terms if your have an idea about this. Let me explain:
So I've had my regular Windows 7 for a long time now. It's always worked perfectly. I decided to give the Windows 8 Preview a try, so yesterday I shrunk my Win 7 partition to 327 GB and gave my new Win 8 138 GB (number not relevant other than to show they have plenty of space). All is well so far, 7 still booted fine in the meantime.
So I pop in my Win 8 DVD, boot from it, install to the empty partition, no problems.
BIOS Screen, Boot Selection, Windows 8. Messed around, works great. Alright, let's go back to Windows 7 and use some of my programs.
BIOS Screen, Boot Selection, Pick Windows 7 Ultimate (Recovered), BIOS Screen, Black Screen, BIOS Screen, "Press control and S to enter boot setup" (weird), BIOS Screen, Long wait on a black screen with a mouse pointer (never happened before this, used to be almost instant), aaaand finally logged into the desktop. Well, that's weird. A lot of the startup programs aren't loading up. And my keyboard and mouse do nothing.
My keyboard and mouse are Logitech wireless combo usb dongle. Always used them. I tried different ports, a few restarts, and even tried a different wired usb keyboard.
Well that sucks. Went into BIOS screen, and Legacy USB devices was enabled (just to check), and I also tried toggling the EHCI hand off just for kicks. Noth... Read more
Sounds to me like Windows 8 got confused and overwrote data in the Window 7 registry. If System Restore is not an option, then a Repair Install is what I would do. And that might not work either. Repair Installs don't work when the permissions have been pooched, and who knows what Win8 did to your Win7 registry.19 more replies
There are multiple websites that I cannot connect to, facebook, rottentomatoes, youtube, to name a few. Others seem perfectly fine. A few seem okay, but seem to be running slowly.
This is the case for both my computer (on which I am running Windows 7), which is connected directly to the router, *and* mobile devices which are connected wirelessly.
On my computer I have tried using several different browsers to no avail, but when I used the TOR browser to proxy, I was able to access them.
I apologize if this has been asked, but I haven't been able to find anything this specific.
6 more replies
Many, many problems with my desktop. Was about to throw in the rubbish but I would like to keep it running until W10 is released and is stable, then upgrade both OS and hardware. Read other people having similar.
Problems started three or four months ago with 100% CPU usage problems, disk usage light hard on, and memory usage at 70 - 80%. Initially would be in this 'full-use' state for 20 minutes or so, especially but not exclusively at sign-on, during which time Browser unusable, even Explorer would take 2mins to open a folder. Then return to stable, responsive state. I cleaned out Startup Programmes, removed all unnessary services. No change. Removed GWX and Auto Windows Update, restored to previous restore points, etc but same problems continued.
Then problem progressed to a totally non-responsive state, mouse, keyboard, esc, ctrl-alt-del not responding. Only action was to power off. Power on would offer Safe Mode, so chose Safe mode and once up, did a restart, mostly that worked, occasionally would fail and then repeat and repeat until windows would load. I backed up all files, suspecting a progressive failure of the MB, Memory or HDDs.
For the past week, booting up has been a slow repetitive task, having to boot up between 5 and 10 times, just to get to a working windows session. Many times a message 'Windows was unable to boot' and sometimes offered (not always offered) Windows Repair I would follow that route, chosing a previous restore point. No avail, hard b... Read more
No memory dumps in uploaded reports, or in the KernelDumpList report.
No BSOD errors reported in the WER section of MSINFO32
Has the system BSOD'd since you reinstalled the OS?
Your UEFI/BIOS (version 0207) dates from 2007. Please check at the manufacturer's website to see if there are any UEFI/BIOS updates available for your system. If you are able to install the update through Windows (without booting from an external drive), then go ahead and update it. WARNING - if the computer might shut down during this procedure, please don't do it, as this may physically damage the computer and prevent it from booting.
Only 1 Windows Update installed. Most systems have 300 or more (this includes SP1). Please visit Windows Update and get ALL available updates (it may take several trips to get them all).
You have 2 problems in Device Manager. The first is a PS2 keyboard. If you are using a USB keyboard this error is safe to ignore.
The other problem is the Asus ATK0110 ACPI Utility driver. Please visit the Asus website and install the latest, Win7 compatible version for your system. If it's not availaable, please post back as there are several different programs that it's included in (and, it may also be obtained through Windows Update). FYI - using an outdated version of this driver (2006 or earlier) is likely to cause BSOD problems also.
Beyond that, there's not much evidence of problems with the system. I... Read more
Our ISP recently updated their hard ware to work with the Sprint network. Note: our ISP is not Sprint, but the local phone company.
Internet: DSL 10.0 (highest speed available)
Modem: Comtrend (ISP provides)
Router: Belkin N
Computer: 10 yr old Dell running XP - service pac3 - wired connection
Kindle Fire (first edition, no HD, etc) - wireless connection
Xbox 360 - wireless connection
Xbox - went from constantly bumped from Xbox Live game by losing internet connection to not being able to enter a game at all
Kindle - went from occasional "network error' message during online tasks to having to restart download (multiple times) or refresh page for most any or all online tasks
Computer - have to click refresh to get most any page to load after the home page
What we've tried so far:
I have recently cleared the cache on both the computer and Kindle. XBox's new security measures have been met.
Do any or all of these issues seem to be related?
Is there a piece of equipment or something we may be missing to make all of these things work? I am a networking novice.
Who should I call to get these issues corrected, my ISP or a tech service? Note: if I start with the ISP and they do not find an issue I have to pay for the call.
First. You should try to NOT use a wireless connection for any type of gaming: PC, Mac, Console, etc. If you can hard wire the xbox you'll be waaay better off than using wireless.
Now... Yes, the issues could be related - there maybe an issue with the Belkin N router. I'd try to first reset the Belkin router to default settings, check on manufacturer website for instructions how, most routers you can press a "reset" button w/ a paperclip or ball point pen. Reconfigure the Belkin router, recreate the wireless network and see how everything works. If you are still having issues, humor me and connect the Dell directly to the DSL modem, bypassing Belkin router. See if you still have connection issues, if you do then it could be the DSL modem that is the problem and call your ISP to replace. If you don't have same issues then it's most likely an issue with the Belkin router. Replace it. Don't buy the dirt cheapest router at the store, but you most likely don't need the most expensive one either. Find a good middle ground router, ask sales associate to assist you accordingly.
Post back, Hope this helps!!
I am trying setup Excel to automatically prompt the user when a workbook is opened. I would like the prompt to request multiple inputs within the same box and send those values to specific cells on a worksheet. I have looked at the inputbox function but it only allows (1) input. Any ideas? Thanks in advance!
Why not multiple InputBox functions in a single VBA procedure? If it's different kinds of data...
I have a Windows XP and have recently been having some virus issues. I have used Avira, AVG, Malwarebytes, Spybot, etc., to scan my computer and remove a lot of the corrupted files.
The problem I am having now is that any external device I plug in to my computer (hard-drives, thumb drives, iphone, ipod and memory cards) through any of my usb and card reader slots are not being recognized in "my computer."
The slots do work, in the sense that the external hard-drives light up and the disc spins, I can charge my iphone and ipod through my usb, but my computer does not find them so I cannot access the external hard-drives, memory cards, or sync iphone and ipod. Also, I can hook up these same devices to other computers without any issues.
I have uninstalled and reinstalled all of the usb drivers, tried safe mode, and multiple other things I've read from other forums. I was also getting the "windows no disk exception processing error" that I was unable to resolve by any of the proposed methods such as renaming drives, etc. I ended up downloading a patch to make this error go away, but it just stops the error from popping up, it doesn't actually fix the problem. I am guessing this might be related to my current problem, but it may also be a result of some of the spyware and trojans I have had and what I deleted from my computer to clear up these viruses.
Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated. I really want my computer to be able to ... Read more
Scan you computer with "Microsoft AutoPlay Repair Wizard". It will scans your computer devices to find defective AutoPlay settings, and attempts to fix those it finds.
I just added a 10x DVD player to a system which already has a fast CD player which my son uses to play games on. Problem is how can I connect both to my sound card. If I just solder on another plug onto the cable is it OK to connect both players at once. If not any other suggestions?
Check the local computer stores for a "Y" adapter sound cable. If they dont have one, they can order one for you.
Hey there everyone, I have a bit of a problem, maybe some of you higher level computer users can help?
Me and my girlfriend both play World of Warcraft (she forces me), and it's getting very tiring just watching each other play, we are looking for a way for both of us to play at once.
Now I have dual monitor display, and a damn fast computer, and I noticed that I can run two instances of WoW at once.
Now... I want to be able to have my computer's "Focus" on both of these windows at once. I will be running two keyboards and mouses through my computer (Using an Autohotkey script for the second keyboard, and remapping the keys on WoW).
My question, are there any programs on the web that will send input to two different windows at once?
A car with two steering wheels can still only turn one way at a time.
Hey there everyone, I have a bit of a problem, maybe some of you higher level computer users can help?
Me and my girlfriend both play World of Warcraft (she forces me), and it's getting very tiring just watching each other play, we are looking for a way for both of us to play at once.
Now I have dual monitor display, and a damn fast computer, and I noticed that I can run two instances of WoW at once.
Now... I want to be able to have my computer's "Focus" on both of these windows at once. I will be running two keyboards and mouses through my computer (Using an Autohotkey script for the second keyboard, and remapping the keys on WoW).
My question, are there any programs on the web that will send input to two different windows at once?
Have you considered using two monitors? That may be the only way both screen can be the 'focus'.
Hi Everyone: I am trying to create a macro, that allows me to enter multiple data in one cell, I just do not know VBA at all but I know Excel well. Here is an example of how the data should look "C02Ex04". I need 2 input pauses for this.
The number "2" refers to a chapter and will be between 1-11. The "04" refers to the exercise number and will be between 1-9. My challenge in the macro, is allowing the second input, I don't know how to activate an F2 command to keep the cell active for more input.
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I want to use the audio simultaneously from my ati 4550 HDMI, Sony blue-tooth speaker via usb BT dongle, 3.5mm jacks on my mobo, and also from a spdif and digital coax linked to the mobo via on board header to expansion bracket with ports.
I know this all may sound like overkill, however I don't have the funds for high end switches / replicators, etc. So manually changing them has been a hassle.
I have done some reading and I know se7en doesn't let you. I did this with xp x64.
Anyone know of a "work-around" or hack to enable all devices at once?
4gb Kingston 667mhz
Ultra MD3 Dashboard
Gyration RF MCE Universal Remote
From what I see, you can only have one "Default" Playback device so I doubt that what you want to do can be accomplished.2 more replies
I use w10 on 3 devices, a mid range gaming PC, linx7 tablet, and lumia640. On the whole the experience is pretty good, syncing works well, reminders, alarms, contacts etc. This was one of the reasons I opted for android early, using chrome on a PC gave a similar, yet skimmed down, one OS feel.
I've not had one BSOD since updating the 'rig', my mobile works great, and the tablet is amazing for ?49! I was talking to my father in law who uses all 3 main OSs every day, and we both agree that windows just feels more 'grown up' than iOS or android. He wants a win10 phone next to replace his android (he'll have to keep the company iPhone4).
So like I said, does anyone else have a similar experience?
yeah i have no probs with my Lumia 920, HP work laptop and 2 of table computers at home.
just pisses me off to have the same background on each computer and i seem not to be able to find a setting to keep that sync out
to be fair, i am also posting this problem on other sites. if i find a solution, i promise to share it at all sites.
i have purchased a magicjack, which is a device about twice the size of a flashdrive. it allows the owner to make phone calls and receive them, by utilizing the broadband connection, through the USB port.
it's very simple to activate. first plug the telephone line with the phone at the other end, then plug the magicjack into the USB port.
as you know, when using the usb port, a pop-up asks what you want to do. i choose "take no action>ok".
a registration GUI is supposed to pop-up after it loads. mine didn't without disabling my AV. i've heard that the firewall can also hamper this.
when the registration is complete, the new interface shows your new number, and says "ready to call".
for all intents and purposes, i will call the phone that's plugged into the magicjack the "magicjack phone".
i tried to call the magicjack phone from my cell phone, the cell phone number shows up on the magicjack interface. there is a recorded message that plays on the cell phone that says "the call you are attempting to place is not allowed from this line". i don't know if my cell phone company is allowing the call or not.
when i try to call the cell phone from the magicjack phone, i get a pop-up window stating the following:
no audio devices found
no output/input devices are found
pl... Read more
Didn't the device come with a driver disc? If not, go to the manufacturer's website for the latest driver available, download it and install it.
Ok, this isn't really pc related, but I'm sure it's an issue many of you face every day. I have a PDA/GPS, cell, bluetooth headset and blackberry. I use each every day, which means every night I have to plug all four devices in to charge. Does anyone know of some kind of charging station that would house all four power adapters neatly and allow me to charge all four devices from one outlet? Is there some kind of travel charger that would let me plug all four devices in to charge at once? Such a hassle taking all four adapters every time I travel.
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We receive Email on Desk Top, Ipad and Laptop that is repeated each time we open a computer and look at the mail . Also have two programmes on the Desk Top that again repeate the mail : Windows Live Mail and Mozilla Thunderbird. This causes untold mail and most annoying. How can I just see the mail once on either of the computers. We run Windows 7 on the Lap Top and Desk Top, the Ipad is the current model.
Hope you can assist me please, my husband and self are not very computer literate.
The closest thing would be to set them all up as IMAP instead of POP accounts. That way you get all the same email, the same deletions and moves, and the same emails marked as read across all devices. It doesn't quite prevent you from seeing the email more than once unless you move that email to another folder or delete it in which case the same thing will happen on the rest of the devices.
You would have to check with your email service to see if they support IMAP and to get the correct settings. Or post your email provider here.
Also, I changed the title of your thread from your name to something more meaningful.
So here's the setup:
Windows Home Premium X64, 8GB Ram, I5-3570K CPU
Recently built. I understand there's been an issue with Windows 7 using different devices for audio outputs. I was told by MS IT to use Virtual Audio Cable (VAC) for 'combining' my programs/devices into the same output.
My computer is mostly built for Audio recording (Audacity, Adobe Audition), and virtual instrumentation (Reason 5, FL Studio, Abelton, etc...)
My issue is that while some of these programs work well with VAC, key important ones such as Reason 5 do not. With my particular soundcard and driver, there is a degree of latency between the time I press a note on the keyboard to when I can actually hear it.
FL Studio automatically bundles ASIO4ALL - an awesome '0 latency' driver pack that comes with a easy to use control menu. ASIO4ALL is automatically selected as the audio card driver.
However I am unable to use VAC whilst keeping the latency low at the same time.
I need some help if you please!
I have a Sonar X2 (Producer) studio. Something like your questions would be better answered on a board such as www.gearslutz.com where recording and DAW equipment is the topic of the forum.
I don't like ASIO4ALL, it can cause problems. I've had problems with trying to use it when I had a Focusrite Saffire Pro 40. I've seen other posts (on other forums) about ASIO4ALL problems.
I have a Roland Octa-Capture and an MAudio Fastrack Ultra 8R and I only use the drivers supplied by Roland and MAudio.
I have an ethernet connection running from a router to another room and I wonder if I could use that single connection for multiple devices (computer, game systems, etc). Will a hub work for a connection coming from a router?
Is it possible to have them all up and running simultaneously or does it have to be one device at a time?
If it's a standard SOHO router, and not a switch or a modem, you can have up to 253 devices attached. (There are 256 addresses available, but you can't use the first or last address, and one is reserved for the gateway--the router itself.) Note that the 253 addresses includes wireless devices.
I use laptop, with system speaker volume too low, almost inaudible.
It has inbuilt sigmatel HD audio, with 3.5 mm jack ( I do connect my headphone with it).
I also posses a bluetooth headset (DELL).
Is there any way I can get output to both the headsets?
I need this to watch movie, so that me and my room partner can easily listen via saperate sets fo headphone without difficulty.
as far as i know you cannot output to two audio devices at the same time from one program unless the program alows this (eg. PCDJ)
To solve the problem you could get a 3.5mm spliter and another set of 3.5mm headphones but this would probably require a trip to an electronics shop unless you have one already.
also post what OS you are running in case someone else knows of another way.
I would like to connect a variety of wireless devices in my house to my work VPN while allowing other devices in the house access to my home network as normal.
I was hoping to find a wireless ADSL router that allows me to associate a LAN port to a VPN connection, then connect a wireless access point to that port. I could then run two wireless networks in my house, one that would connect to my work VPN and the other that would not.
Is there such a router?
If not, is there some other way of doing what I need?
Sorry for the bump, but would this do the trick?
My system has a sound card and two USB audio devices. I can click the speaker -> options -> propertied -> mixer device and select 1 device and reboot and play via that device. However I would like to have all audio devices work at the same time. Is there a way to do this? If not, is there a way to switch without rebooting? (Windows 2000).
..................err? why do you need/want multiple audio devices from the one PC??????
i have speakers connected to the hdmi and have a fm transmitter connected to the headphones jack. how do i get the soud to come out of both? Picture:
You can't have sound from both at same time - it's either one or other because the headphone jack is designed to mute the speakers when headphones are plugged into it.
Windows 7 Ultimate, 64 bit. Home network. Already have 3 printer devices. One printer is All-in-One (HP). Want to keep that device installed and be able to use all functions. Want to add a desk top scanner for speed and versatility. The All-in-One is network cabled and also USB to my desktop computer. The desktop scanner is not network; would be USB to my desktop computer. I seem to recall reading somewhere (not sure of this - maybe HP literature to discourage buying other scanners) that you can't have more than one scanner. Doesn't seem logical. Is more than one scanner (using only one at any one time) OK?
As far as I know you have as many usb devices hooked up to one computer. There is a theoretical limit of 124, but it really is determined on how many usb ports you have as to how many usb devices you can hook up. Each device has it's own driver/software package, so I don't see any real reason you couldn't. I know for a fact you can have a printer (all in one) and scanner hooked up at the same time. My dad did using XP, Lexmark all in one printer and an HP scanner.4 more replies
Hi, I recently purchased a HP Pavilion dv6974 Laptop, it came installed with Vista 64-bit. It works fine and all, just one thing I want to figure out.
The laptop has built-in speakers, a built-in mic, 2 headphone jacks and 1 microphone jack. I plugged my headset into one of the headphone jacks, my headset microphone into the microphone jack, and my external speakers into the second headphone jack.
What I wish to do is to set it up in a way that I can play music through my speakers, and Ventrilo through my headset.
The way I did this before on my desktop was that there was this option in the Realtek Audio Manager called "enable playback multi-stream" that separated the two audio jacks on the computer (one in the back, and one in the front). Then I was able to choose a different audio driver for Ventrilo, and use the default one for music. This was on XP, and I only had one sound card btw.
And now for Vista, I've tried looking through the Audio Device Manager and the Realtek Audio Manager but couldn't find anything that would help much, except in the Realtek Audio Manager there's this "tie up all input jacks something something, etc" that sounded like it was what I was looking for, but all it did was mess up my microphone.
To add more to this confusion, there is actually another audio device in the Audio Device Manager, but it's the Digital Audio Receiver, and I don't really know what that does.
I've asked about this problem elsewhere, and some peopl... Read more
Hi, ForeverRen, and welcome to the forums.
I think HP would be your best bet in this instance....as they would be able to tell you for sure if that can be done with their hardware or not.
hi, i'm relatively new here, so i'm not really sure how to do this but alot of my games are having problems i.e. ? has cause in invalid page fault in unknown. I am led to believe it is a soundcard problem, i use an onboard sound card with the VIA VT1612A 2-channel audio Codec and i look in multimedia properties under audio devices, i had two different ones, Audio for via Ac'97 Enhanced Audio Controller(WDM), and Audio for Vinyl AC'97 Codec Combo Driver (WDM), i was told by a friend to uninstall the drivers and then reinstall to fix this, i did, now on top of those two devices i have a second Audio for Vinyl AC'97 Codec Combo Driver (WDM). I also have three MIDI for WDM-based Device. ANd Mixer for VIA AC'97 Enhanced Audio Controller (WDM), along with two Mixer for Vinyl AC'97 Codec Combo Driver (WDM),this may be normal, but like i said i'm relatively new at this and it doesn't really look normal, so can someone please help me? Thank You
Look at the back of your computer. Do you have onboard sound AND a seperate PCI sound card? If so then you need to disable the onboard sound in the BIOS setup and use only the PCI sound card.
Now go to Add/Remove Programs and uninstall ALL VIA AC97, AC97, Vinyl audio drivers and anything else that looks like it goes to sound drivers.
Then go to Device Manager and uninstall/remove all remaining VIA/Vinyl/AC97 devices listed under the Multimedia heading. Reboot only after all are removed.
Then download the latest VIA Vinyl drivers. When you first run the new driver setup program it will look to see if there are still drivers installed, if it finds any then it give you the option to uninstall them. Do that and reboot.
Then run the VIA installation again and install the drivers, and reboot.
At any point Windows may redetect the sound card and want to reinstall the drivers - let it. Do NOT click Cancel on the Found New Hardware Wizard. If all goes well prior to install the latest driver the sound card should be detected as a PCI Multimedia Device and that means all the drivers will have been removed.
Here's the latest drivers: http://www.viaarena.com/Driver/Vinyl_AudioCode_v600a_M.zip
They are in a ZIP file, once extracted you need to run the SETUP.EXE file to install the drivers.
I'm not entirely sure if this is a Windows Sound issue or a hardware issue, so I'm asking this question both here and in a Windows Community Forum. Is it possible to output audio to multiple devices (i. e., can one assign more than one "Default Device")? For example, can I output to the USB-S/P-Dif device connected to my stereo and the bluetooth device driving my outdoor speakers simultaneously? I have an Envy dv7-7255dx, with the IDT Hi-Def audio codec, running 64-bit Windows 10 Home. Thanks!More replies
So on my home network, we have your normal cable modem, router, and gigabit switch setup. The router is a high speed linksys model (gigabit), and the gigabit switch is an 8 port. The ethernet goes all through the house, but I've recently built a media room. In this room I have a Zensonic High-def network dvd player for streaming media, a gaming/media pc, an xbox 360, ps3, modded xbox 1 for more media streaming and a wii. The wii isn't really relevant to the problem because it is wifi, but I'm proud of my media room.
The problem was that I needed to network all of these, and when the house was built, we only ran one ethernet port into the room. No big deal I thought, because as long as I'm just streaming media, a 10/100 switch would be sufficient. So I pulled out an old hub (not a switch). All of these devices were hooked up and it worked great. Then one day, it all just stopped. The hub was old, so I ran out and got a netgear fs605 switch on sale for 5 bucks at office depot. This still hasn't fixed the problem, but has helped me diagnose it. When I plug in the uplink, I get a blinking response. When I plug in the next device, it works and is recognized. However, every device after that causes the switch to stop working and just start blinking. No activity, it looks like an error code of some kind. Have I put too much on this little switch? It was working just fine for months on just a hub. Any thoughts?
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Why do I have so many "base system devices" can I safely delete them ?
first, we need to know your system specs, follow this tutorial
Second, why are you posting a Win 8 issue in sevenforums when there is eightforums?
New box is together. Windows 8.1 64-bit.
When I look at my drives in file explorer, a couple drives have multiple drive letters...
For example, my data backup drive, which is only one partition, shows up as drive "Int data backup (T(T(T" - unfortunately, it keeps changing the colon and closing parentheses to that goofy smiley face.
Same for a couple others... I've never seen this before in Windows 7, so what is this? Do I need to do something about it?
Also, in "Devices and Printers" from the control panel, I have FOUR occurrences of "DIRECTV2PC Media Server" and FOUR occurrences of "DIRECTV Mediashare Renderer"
Do they have anything to do with the multiple drive letters? What the heck are they for? And can I delete them?
It appears your PC is connected to a media Share network5 more replies
I seem to have a bug in the USB drivers or such that I need help with analyzing. I have tried deleting the USB drivers and letting the system update the driver. I am rather a newbie at system diagnostics but somewhat proficient at computers so hopefully with your help I can iron this problem out. Thanks very much ahead of time
HP dm4 laptop
Toshiba 500GB HD
You have both Norton Internet Security and AVG installed. Please remove one or the other and see if your system is then stable.
Norton Removal ToolHaving two security programs that accomplish the same tasks can cause conflicts/freezes/hangs/crashes/etc. due to them using the same system resources simultaneously. If you had tried to remove one prior to installing the other, it may be that remnants remain and you should contact support for that product to get it properly removed now.
I've googled this endlessly with no result and I'm guessing it isn't possible but I may as well ask.
My laptop has one audio/mic port. I'm cheap and had a splitter laying around, my headphones, and a set of ear buds with a mic on it I combined to use as a headset.
This works fine, however, since the sound output is being split to both my ear buds and headphones, it doesn't sound as good and some things are faint, which isn't good for gaming.
Is there a way to manage my audio devices so that my ear buds is mic only and no sound, and my headphones get all the sound? I've found no options in Windows, just playback (speakers) and recording (mic). I assume because it's only one jack it isn't, but it can't hurt to ask.
I've read through a could of threads but have yet to find any answers for my problem. Basically my internet runs fine when a device is directly connected to my modem. However, when running through a router I get 2-10 second disconnects at random intervals on all devices hooked up to the router, be it wired or wireless. I've already tired three different router, all different brands, among other various things like updating/switch firmware and changing the router over to a new wall socket with no luck. I had my service provider come out and switch the modem, but that didn't help any. Any help would be appreciated.
what cable is between the router and modem - has this been changed ?
you mention "wall socket"
As you have made a lot of changes to the modem and to the router(s) - i can only think of cable
Before making each connection , do a powercycle - see how below
connect with a small cable between the modem and PC - and that works fine
then with a 2nd cable - do the same
now you have two cables that you know work on the modem
Also while in that configuration post an ipconfig /all - see how below
then using the same cables - connect from the modem to the router
and using the known cable connect the PC to the router
Now test again and see if this time it works
We would like to see the results from an ipconfig /all - post back the results in a reply here.
If you cannot access the internet with this PC, then you will need to paste the results into something like notepad and then copy onto a machine that can access the internet and post the results in a reply here.
Save the file to a USB flash drive or other removable media. Plug it into the working computer with internet access and copy the file and paste here.
If you do not have another PC - do you have a phone connected to the internet - can you photograph the result and post the image in a reply
Note: you will see entries named Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface: we dont need to see that information - JUST the information above those entries
For Windows 8 or Windows 10
To open a Cm... Read more
So my household needs to upgrade internet. Our internet speeds are slow (3mbps) and my mom works at home with various computer programs as she processes documents and claims.She cannot deal with the lag in her internet speed caused by my brother playing his new xbox one (which I've heard takes up the internet like no other) and me browsing the net all at once.
I'm asking because I don't know about internet speeds, our current plan in our area is the best one (I know 3mbps is not alot) but apparently that is the highest service AT&T U-verse provides.
So I'm wondering if anyone knows what would be a good speed for internet considering all of this, it know this isn't exactly a computer problem but I wouldn't know where else to ask.
Thank you for your help!
So I'm wondering if anyone knows what would be a good speed for internet considering all of this, it know this isn't exactly a computer problem but I wouldn't know where else to ask.Click to expand...
No problem, this is the right section to ask in.
Now I'm a bit confused as to whether your potential Internet speed would be 3Mbps or 5Mbps (conflicting information in title and post). Either way, you're right that that isn't very much bandwidth. Your mom should be able to do her computer work assuming the file transfers she performs involve smaller Word, PDF, and text documents. The primary factors here will be what you do while web browsing, and the Xbox One connection.
You likely won't be able to play Xbox and stream video well simultaneously - that isn't even taking into account possible file transfers of your mom's.
I'm not sure where you live, but most developed areas in the United States have Internet speeds much higher than this. I recommend doing some research online to find out if this truly is your only option. With modern Internet content, I would say ~10Mbps is a good minimum recommendation for a pleasant browsing experience.
If you cannot find/get an Internet connection with increased bandwidth, then you all may need to dedicate times for certain activities on the Internet.
I'm trying to use my speakers for everything except one program. I want to use my headphones for a chat program called Ventrillo. any ideas or suggestions?
I've tried just about everything I could think of and still nothing. Tried changing audio output settings on everything and still cant figure it out. Anyone know if its even possible?
Does anyone know if Windows 8 will intergrate multiple output devices to play at the same time? Windows 7 doesn't do it... which is stupid. Pirates will always find a way to bypass this, but I'm stuck without this important feature!!! This is absolutely CRUCIAL for HTPC (home theatre PC) people and/or DJ's or Music producers / Artists. I also use audio levelers like SRS audio essentials which is considered another audio playback device. This is truly ridiculous that I paid all of this money for Windows 7 and I can't play to 2 sets of speakers at the same time. And if I want to switch to headphones for a second for any particular reason, i have to go through a process... and make it the default device and when I want to go back to watching tv I have to go through the process again...... SO ANNOYING..... it's my computer, I should be able to play to ALLLLLLLL of my devices. That's why I buy all these devices so I can use them all simultaneously. This is so basic. Can you please update Windows 7 with multiple playback on all devices. I don't copyright infringe or rip dvd's to external sources, but even if I was a shady individual, which I'm NOT, I don't need multiple playback device to do this. You're only hurting ME, the consumer that pays for things I use. It's MADDENING. PLEASE UPDATE YOUR PLAYBACK DEVICES TO INCLUDE SIMULTANEOUS OUTPUT PLAYBACK TO ALL DEVICES.... OR AT LEAST SEVERAL... I mean really... for this stage of technology, this is totally ridiculous.
better to ask this question here
Windows 8 Forums
The people frequenting there have more direct experience with windows 8 than the average user here.
I am using my phones 3G to type this and it's a real nuisance since I cannot research information for essays and other important aspects that I need when studying for my A levels.
Anyway, it started last night around 11pm, everything died and I thought it was because of the bad weather.
I woke up to sunshine however the internet was still not working.
The router is a SuperHub 2 and it had no problems up till now, the lights for 5Ghz and 2.4Ghz are flashing and so are the other lights on the router - this the router is working.
The problem is the connectivity, I use my laptop, iPhone and computer all together when studying and playing games. All of which has the same problem. All have the 5 bars connectivity however they all say "no internet access" and no response from the DNS servers.
What is the problem then?
What I've done:
- I have release and renewed the IPs
- reset router numerous times
- turned on: off router numerous times
- fiddled with wires to make sure they're plugged in.
- turned on and off computers and laptops.
- set IvP4 to automatic.
- waited hours.
- went onto the Virgin Media router page via 192.168.0.X. Then I started the router up in factory status, starting I up a few times.
How do I fix this nuisance? I need the internet now, for work purposes.
Please help, since it's affecting me and my family members and all of our devices.
Does the Virgin Media router page give you a status of the WAN?
We had a bad storm last week and it took a few days after power was restored for Comcast to repair their lines.
I was able to get to my router, but the WAN address was 0.0.0.0 - can't get there from here!
If you have a WAN address, turn everything off (no power) then
power up your cable modem, wait a few minutes for it to cycle through what it cycles through
power up your router (if seperate) wait for it to cycle through what it cycles through
finally power up your machine and check the network status on the Virgin Media router
If you don't have a WAN address, report the outage to your provider. They probably already know about your area, but a call never hurts.
Slowly lost app's now have no control. Or admin privilege. The screen looks fake. There's drives listed I can't access. And every download was hijacked. Now theres no real Network or bios driver installed. after multiple attempts and no system functions available I want to use another computer and try to download virus software there. Noticed something strange happen and both laptops havea Dll bug long story short my Android, laptops, printer and router have all been hijacked and I do not know what to do at this point
I haven't seen or been able to find anything on something so expensive enedina have any other laptops that are accessible at this time so even doing it from my phone is challenging
I have an Xbox One, Windows Phone, and Windows 10 laptop. I have Hey Cortana enabled on all of them. I use it all the time on Xbox to control my tv volume and channel. I use it while I'm driving on my phone. I don't use it that often on my laptop, but sometimes I will use it to change songs or something while I am working. The point is, I have fairly justifiable reasons to have it enabled on 3 devices.
So lets say I'm watching football. I have my fantasy stuff up on my laptop, and my phone is near bye because its always there. I decide I want to mute the TV, so I say "Hey Cortana, Mute". The result? My Tv mutes, my phone and my laptop both tell me that they cant perform that function. I do that same with volume up? Same result.
Later, I say "Hey Cortana, call Wife". The result? My Xbox and TV either try to open Skype or give me an error while my phone calls my wife.
So year, having the same "Hey Cortana" voice commands for 3 devices was a poor idea. "Xbox, Mute" worked fine. I mean, I do feel like Cortana does a better job of understanding what I am telling it to do, but couldn't it have stayed as Xbox commands rather than Hey Cortana? I could just turn it off on my laptop and be happy with it, but I actually use it for my phone and my xbox.
Imagine when people actually start buying Surface Phones (if that ever happens). What were they thinking?
Lucky sod, we have three Xbox Ones, two PC's two Surfaces and three Cortana enabled Windows phones in our flat, we have discovered the meaning behind the phrase "She who's name must not be spoken"3 more replies
I have a dell dimension 2400 that I think is going kaput. I've had to format one drive twice and an alternate drive once (merely to test that the first hard drive wasn't the issue.) My primary problem and reason for my first reinstall was an OS hanging issue probably due to some hardware conflict somewhere - various solutions such as safe mode, repairing install and fixboot would not work (scared to use fixmbr without first checking all my options.)
Three soft formats later and both of my hard drive installs are ticking my ethernet adapter, among other devices, with a question mark. As an example, I've used the OEM disks provided for the 3com 4011 integrated ethernet controller, selected the appropriate driver and ended up with a code 10 on it. I boot to safe made and check all the hidden devices for obvious conflicts but no such luck, there are no other NICs installed on my PC and the rest cannot be removed ("you need this device to boot" message on uninstall attempt")
Does anyone know where I can find out which resources my device wants to use?
quick edit: it is XP
could it be a ghost device driver sucking up resources from a previous install?
question the third: HAAALP! according to the utility partition manager my system is in full working order (ha.)
many thanks for your gratuitous help.
I'm adding an everest report of the hardware for your viewing pleasure.
it can be viewed here:
Under XP, when I played an MP3 it would come out of my headphones and my SPDIF port to my AMP at the same time. Under vista I seem to have to choose and keep changing them manually (setting one as default) . Also, when I change them, it doesn't seem to take effect till I restart that application, mp3 player, movie player or whatever.
I seem to have similar issues with mic vs line-in. and switching between them doesn't always seem to work if in use and Mute options also seem to not kick in.
I read some scare stories about DRM but I'm not sure that this is relevent or not .
In XP, this just worked. sound would go into the IN's and come out of the OUTs and could be muted where needed. Does this work differently now?
I realize this is a forum for Windows 7, but I don't know where else to ask this question lol.
Earlier I made a thread about my mom's computer being unable to reinstall Windows 7 after a factory reset. I think I've found a possible fix for this, but I'm not entirely sure.
I'm currently in the process of installing Windows 10 on my own computer via the Windows Creation Tool, and I noticed that it gave me the option to not only install W10 on my own computer, but another's through a Flash Drive as well.
So my question: after I've installed Windows 10 on my own computer, would it be possible to also put a copy onto my flash drive to install Windows 10 on my mom's computer as well? And if so, can I bypass the product key requirement to get to the desktop? I've got some code that I used to grab my own product key in order to install Windows 10 for myself, which I can also use to retrieve my mom's product key if I can get to her desktop to open Notepad.
I've never booted a computer via flash drive, so I don't know whether or not I can do this. I don't have her product key, and I can only get it if I can access her desktop (unless there's another way, because the product key on the back of her laptop is too faded to read).
Thanks in advance!
Once you've made an install flash drive (or DVD or iso) from the Microsoft site, you can use it to upgrade any number of qualifying computers (genuine activated Windows 7 SP1) to Windows 10 without needing a serial. It must be the correct edition ie Windows 7 Home Premium needs a Windows 10 Home flash drive. A sneaky upgrade attempt from Home to Pro will appear to work, but won't activate (you will prob be nagged to buy the correct serial sometime in the future).
re : booting from flash - I found that the upgrade didn't work in that scenario. I had to run setup.exe from within Windows 7. If a clean install is your goal, once Windows 10 is installed, you can boot from the install media (flash, DVD etc) and install again, deleting all partitions. You don't need a serial for this, because MS 'remembers' the hardware and activates it accordingly. If you do this, all data and apps are deleted.
Edit - if your mom's computer isn't actually running, you won't be able to upgrade it to W10 for free.
Ok im not quite sure where this question should be posted but i noticed the problem when i was playin games so this is where i chose...
Basically i've got different sounds coming from my speakers and my headphones. I have teamspeak coming through my headphones but my game sounds and other sounds from the speakers. I cant seem to find a way to make them all come from the headphones.
Using windows 7 32 bit
Thanks in advance
Have you tried changing any settings within the Windows Sound panel?
Start > Control Panel >Sound > Playback tab
Look for Speakers...right-click and Disable
Look for the Headphones....right-click and Set as Default Device
Hi guys. I have my TV connected via HDMI through my video card to my computer and also run sound through my computers speakers with the onboard sound. Normally I just change the audio device before opening a program depending on whether I want it on the TV speakers or computer speakers. The problem is that sporadically when I select the device for the TV speakers it doesn't provide any sound and no combination of turning the TV on and off, changing the audio device back and forth etc will let give sound on the TV speakers (but when i change to the computer speakers it works fine). I can't seem to reproduce the problem either, it just happens sporadically and the only solution is to restart the computer.
I have vista 32 bit ultimate. Any suggestions?
I am having major issues at the moment and have been trying to fix this for the past couple of months.
my primary laptop a Tobisha was playing up a while ago when I plugged my apple iphone into it and was transferring photo's, it was taking ages to respond and then came up with error corrupt image.
I tried again and it said the file was already there and if i would like to replace it? I saw the file size and it was 100 X bigger than all the others.
I got a little concerned and downloaded malwarebites to scan my computer (I had avg already installed and nortorns).
as time went on and a little bit of research online and fiddling about, the virus was not budging and had locked me out of admin rights.
I tried take ownership, downloading various programs to run and it kept overtaking the programs until i couldn't delete any files anymore.
I found an old laptop dell and tried to fix that one up (as that too had a virus)
I ran malwarebites on it and it removed somethings and i was able to get it going.
I was using an exeternal hard drive to back up my files from the tobisha and wanted to transfer them to the dell
when i noticed i lost admin rights on the dell also.
at this point too I was having strange things happen to my iphone, background app transfers and greyed out features with location services always on.
I tried deleting a heap of things on the dell after running some programs, it seems it now had the same thing as the other laptop.
I gave up trying to fix anythi... Read more
A big hello to everyone. This is my second time coming here, albeit with a different problem, and one that is a lot more annoying!
A week or so ago i starting getting occasional redirects and popups to pages that start with "syndication.exoclick" whenever I browsed the Internet with Google Chrome. I cleaned it (deleted all browsing data, signed out of the browser and back on) and it was fine for a day or two. As of today, the problem has gotten much worse. I keep constant redirections to pages starting with "adfoc.us" - over half of the tabs I open are immediately taken over and redirected. Worst part is that it now works on Internet Explorer as well. It is also worth mentioning that I am not getting these redirects only on my desktop, but also on my Nexus tablet as well. The problem seems unconnected to my router, as today I've used my tablet on a completely different Wi-Fi half across town, while still getting the problem. I've ran TDSS cleaner, the Microsoft Security Essantials, Malwarebytes AntiMalware, which all reported 0 problems. I've also reinstalled Chrome, to no effect.
As for the redirects, they ranged from Aliexpress to random cam sites, but now the adfoc.us started showing up, it only displays the adfoc.us page detailing how the system works (with a really annoying voiceover too) and nothing else. It doesn't even allow me the option to press the "Back" arrow, seems like it literally closes a tab I wanted to open and opens a new one with adfoc.us on ... Read more
Here's the Attach.txt as well. I forgot to click the "Attach this File" button. >.>4 more replies
So I'll try to keep this short.
I have a HP B209a-m that I have just gotten rid of and now am trying to remove all the software from my system. I've run revo and the issue still persists.
It gives me a device install path of ROOT\MULTIFUNCTION\xxx where xxx is a number. I have about 20-30 of these instances in my device manager and all have different install paths. I'd really like to remove these. I've run the HP L4 Uninstaller multiple times and still the issue is here.
I'd just really like to remove HP from my life.
Thanks for the help.
hello and welcome entfy mate try first backing up the registry Registry - Backup and Restore
See my pic AFTER you have backed up that registry but please do that the very first thing I usually make two copies in say the desktop and a document.
Let us know what if any HP software is there you can also check that entry named Printers.
I'll try to explain this as simply as possible... Currently, I have speakers, headphones and the headphone microphone plugged in. I'd like to record my Skype conversations using stereo mix, but stereo mix only picks up what goes through my speakers and not what goes through my headset. I've tried tinkering with the settings and haven't been able to get stereo mix to record what goes through my headset instead of my speakers.
How do I get stereo mix to record headphone audio instead of speaker audio?
For the past few hours, I've also been trying to get Audacity to record both stereo mix and my microphone. From what I've read, Audacity can't record two inputs at the same time, so is there a way to combine stereo mix and my microphone?
I'm using the latest Realtek HD drivers, if that helps any.
Thanks for your time.
You might want to check out VAC(Virtual Audio Cable). It is not a "free" program, so depending on you needs, it might help. here is a link to info about it:Virtual Audio Cable - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
and here is a link to download VAC:
Virtual Audio Cable - CNET Download.com
I used it myself to share music I was listening to over video chats. The program can be used in a number of ways. I no longer use, since I currently have a laptop with Stereo Mix, and that meets my needs just fine. Hope this helps.
Sometimes I watch movies using HDMI output from my computer. When I connect the HDMI cable windows also discovers new sound device. I want to redirect some of outputs to the television so I can use its speakers.
For now, what I do is that I disable the internal sound card and system automatically uses HDMI then.
Thank you for any help
In many systems, when you plug an HDMI cable into the PC Windows will automatically set the HDMI as the Default audio playback device. If Windows is detecting a new device it suggests the Video drivers (usually where the HDMI audio is generated) may not be the correct driver.1 more replies
I've got an HTC One X, an ASUS Transformer and several Windows PCs that I use for business. Depending on my location I receive googletalk messages on any of those devices.
What I need is a software, like Trillian, that will save the chat history of my conversations online to enable me to access it from any device I choose. I don't want to check all devices if I wonder what a colleague wrote to me in the morning.
The problem with Trillian is, that it isn't optimized for the Transformer or any Pad in that regard at all (correct me if I am wrong). It forces me to turn the screen to "vertical mode" which isn't helpfull at all since the Transformer is in "horizontal mode", because of the attached keyboard all the time.
I would really appreciate your help and advice. To be clear: I am totally willing to pay money for such a software, but I don't even find one single alternative to Trillian.
Thanks in advance
I have a 20FB running Win 10 with a Logitech K810 Bluetooth keyboard that I've been using with a corded mouse without any problems. I recently purchased M557 Bluetooth mouse and now, intermittently, but consistently, my keyboard stokes are inaccurate, with multiple repeating letters and extra spaces. If I turn my mouse off, the keyboard again works fine. Disconnecting and reconnecting both devices did not solve this problem. The Lenovo System Update utlility indicates that the device driver is up to date. The Lenovo supplied device driver version is 18.1.1546.2762. Nonetheless, I was able to solve this problem by updating the device driver from Window?s Device Manager to Intel?s latest driver, version 19.0.1621.3340.More replies
I noticed a problem in my keyboard recently, but i'm not sure if it's really on the keyboard, and might be in the windows or software related. The problem is that the keyboard randomly starts freezing, it's hard to explain with words, basically the keys do not operate in the way they should, i notice this problem usually when i'm playing games, where my "W" that should move my character forward continuously. does not, instead of doing what it's supposed to do my character goes forward while freezing along the way. When i unplug, and plug it again on the USB port, even on a different one, the keybord start to operate normally again, but randomly shows this problem from time to time. It's not only with the "W" key, was just an example.
I noticed something yesterday, i don't if it's supposed to be that way, and i can't find any information about, it's that on device manager it shows multiple devices on the keyboard section, when the device is connected, as it shows in the image below:
One more thing, is all of them looks like the same thing, but i'm not sure if they really are, image below:
If i uninstall all of them, except that one that i marked with purple, he is the 4th one in the first image, the keyboard still operates, i'm not sure if the problem is fixed by that, cause it does not happen all the time.
Now that i described everything, i want to ask 2 questions:
1) Showing these multiple devices is normal? Cause i plugged anot... Read more
Okay, so I moved my wireless router to a more central location in my house (I got low signal in my room) and since then I've been able to connect to the network but only with limited access. Trying to connect to a webpage results in the "DNS lookup failed" error message (Chrome). My brother's computer had had the same issue, and the PlayStation 3 has had connectivity issues also, however I have been able to use my phone with the WiFi without any issues.
I've tried unplugging/turning the router on and off to no effect. Using a different router does not change the situation either. When I try to diagnose the network connection, it says that it could not identify the problem. Any ideas?
Both computers run Windows 8
My phone is a Nokia Lumia 620 running WP8
The WiFi status window states that IPv4 and IPv6 have no internet access
My computer uses a Qualcomm Atheros AR5B125 wireless network adapter and says it is working correctly. The adapter is set to work with IPv4/6. IPv4 is set to obtain IP & DNS addresses automatically.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
For a Windows PC ...
Please attach a screen shot of the Networks page (don't collapse the Radar, Connection or Signal History) of the Xirrus Wi-Fi Inspector. If your only email accounts are free (Hotmail, gmail, etc.) try this direct link. If you need help with a screen shot see TSG Posting a Screenshot. FWIW to take screen shots with Windows 8 or 7 or Vista I prefer to use the built-in Snipping Tool.
Identify your network if it is not obvious.
Also show ...
Open a (black) Command Prompt window:
Hold the Windows logo key and press r; in the Run box type cmd and click on OK.
Type the following command:
[Note that there is no space between the slash and ALL.]
Right click in the command window and choose Select All, then hit Enter.
Paste the results in a message here.
If necessary use a text file and removable media to copy the results to a computer with internet access.
This is so odd. I'm running Windows XP SP2 on Dual core INtel with 1 gb memory.
I've installed a front USB panel that has 4 ports in front and 2 more on the PCI card which it's attached to. (added on peripheral).
I can deal with the "this device can run faster if plugged into a 2.0 device" but what is really frustrating is that if I plug in 2 or more USB devices. At least one of them won't work.
This computer is in my family room and wirelessy networked to my other computer in another room. I use a Motorola USB device to connect for the purpose of printing stuff off the printer in the other room.
If I have too many USB devices plugged in - there doesn't seem to be enough power to allow the wireless connection - resulting in not being able to print.
This isn't the only issue. I have some software that requires the USB "key" in order to work. If I need to use that software using the "key" and then I need to print something from that particular software to the remote printer - I have to save it to my desktop firsti - then disconnect the "key" and then I can print.
Do I need a bigger PS? I have a 500W now. I thought that would be big enough. Perhaps the USB issue isn't related to that at all? Is there some way to regulate how much power is assigned to USB devices?
Since my computer is in a desk against a wall - it's very difficult to plug and unplug stuff into the rear slots. Hence the install... Read more
16 more replies
I am using Windows XP,HomeEdition Version 2002, Service Pack 3.
AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 3800+ 2.00 GHz, 3.43 GB of Ram
Firefox version 22.0.
We have noticed recently slow speed on our PC, Cell phones, laptop all connected to our wifi.
On this pc we have a search site called mysearchresults.com show up whenever we open a new tab. There also an ASK.com search bar and a search bar that has the icon of the mysearchresults.com site. Occasionally we get a small window pop up in the lower right corner ( where the taskbar is) that will play a video commercial.
This is also new, within that last few months these two things have started.
We notice alot more pop ups while on you tube, the video is jumpy while trying to scroll to the bottom of the page. When you go to click on a link it seems to move forcing you to click on a pop up.
I tested at speedtest.net and got a ping of 245, download speed of .19 and upload of .42. I've been noticing a lot of 404 issues (im not sure what you call it...it says it cannot find where I wanted to go and leaves me at a search bar that says its powered by Bing. (http://us.search.yahoo.com/404handler?src=toolbar&fr=slv502-tyc&type=&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F)
Mostly though we get...
Server not found
Firefox can't find the server at att.yahoo.com.
Check the address for typing errors such as
ww.example.com inst... Read more
One computer per topic please. Download Security Check from here or here and save it to your Desktop. Double-click SecurityCheck.exe Follow the onscreen instructions inside of the black box. A Notepad document should open automatically called checkup.txt; please post the contents of that document.NOTE 1. If one of your security applications (e.g., third-party firewall) requests permission to allow DIG.EXE access the Internet, allow it to do so.NOTE 2 SecurityCheck may produce some false warning(s), so leave the results reading to me. Please download Farbar Service Scanner (FSS) and run it on the computer with the issue.Make sure the following options are checked:
Internet ServicesWindows FirewallSystem RestoreSecurity Center/Action CenterWindows UpdateWindows DefenderOther ServicesPress "Scan".It will create a log (FSS.txt) in the same directory the tool is run.Please copy and paste the log to your reply. Please download MiniToolBox and run it.Checkmark following boxes:Report IE Proxy SettingsReport FF Proxy SettingsList content of HostsList IP configurationList Winsock EntriesList last 10 Event Viewer logList Installed ProgramsList Devices (do NOT change any settings here)List Users, Partitions and Memory sizeClick Go and post the result. Download Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware (aka MBAM): http://www.malwarebytes.org/products/malwarebytes_free to your desktop.* Double-click mbam-setup.exe and follow the prompts to install the program.* At the end, be sure a checkmark is pl... Read more
The small office where I work has 1 wired desktop, 1 desktop connected over wireless, 2 laptops connected over wireless and two iphones that are always connected to the internet. Until about 12:45 pm EST the wireless internet was working fine, at that time the wireless went down. However, the wired desktop has had no trouble connecting to the internet. Please help, we need to be up and running and our IT guy has disappeared off the face of the earth! Thank you!
The router is a Cisco WRVS4400N. It is one MacBook Pro, a Toshiba Laptop and a Dell desktop that is connected by D-Link DWA-131. Its a Comcast X-Finity 56 MBPS connection. (we're really close to an airbase).
Reset or power cycle the router. Can you still detect the wireless network? If so, can you connect to it? If so, can you communicate with the router via wireless?
Is there a script to run remotely that will return sleep setting results for multiple pc's on a network? I know we can manually check each PC but was wondering if there was a faster and easier way.
Hi and Welcome to TSF!
Are people changing them?
How would you want to distribute the patch?
You can do so with a simple batch program.
Hi, I very much want to know the answer to this problem. My setup is simple. I am working with my Mobo's onboard sound card (Mobo is Asus M3A32-MVP Wi-Fi) and here's the thing. I see multiple devices in both Vista and Seven (have a dual boot) - I see the front headphone jack, the SPDIF, the rear audio port (it's 5.1 surround) and also an HDMI. I've just recently bought two bluetooth headphones and I have paired them and see them in the audio devices panel too.
Now this is what I want to do. I want to hear the audio on all the devices simultaneously. If I turn on the audio system (connected to the SPDIF) then I should hear the audio there. If I connect multiple Bluetooth headphones, I should hear the audio from my comp on any and all of them.
So, why can't I do this? Apparently this was the default behaviour for Windows in XP. That is, any audio played was available on all connected devices. Now, here in Vista and Seven we have a major downgrade in that we have to select a SINGLE audio output device as the "default" device and when a device is selected as such, the audio stream is SOLELY passed into it. THIS IS SO VERY WRONG! It is so illogical to do something like this in today's world of changing and evolving multi-media environments. I mean, what if my Mom wants to hear my music from the kitchen at the same time that I'm listening to it as I work on my desktop. She should be able to simply plugin and start listening to what I'm hearing! This is RIDICULOUS!
I ho... Read more
I can connect to the Internet with my wireless router just fine, but only certain websites will load normally. So far, these include Google, Gmail, Youtube, Facebook, and Wikipedia. Most other websites just show that they are loading forever and nothing ever comes up. I've already tried power cycling/resetting everything.
As an example of what it says when I ping a website that doesn't work:
Pinging www.reddit.com [126.96.36.199] with 32 bytes of data:
Reply from 192.168.1.1: Destination net unreachable.
Reply from 192.168.1.1: Destination net unreachable.
Reply from 192.168.1.1: Destination net unreachable.
Reply from 192.168.1.1: Destination net unreachable.
Ping statistics for 188.8.131.52:
Packets : Sent = 4, Received = 4, Lost = 0 (0% loss),"
I also can't connect to Skype. Itunes doesn't respond upon launch, but only while I'm connected. It works normally while offline.
My phone has the same Internet problems while using wi-fi, but not while using data.
My Xbox One can connect to the Internet, but not to Xbox Live. When I test its network connection, it says "DNS isn't resolving Xbox server names"
What's also strange is that my roommate isn't having these problems on his computer and phone even though we use the same wireless router.
Simple issue: Paypal.com won't load on any device connected in my home, pc, laptop, mobile phone etc.
This can only lead me to believe it's a router realted issue though I can't seem to find a solution. I've factory resetted the router, changed it for a new one etc. and still paypal.com is unaccessable.
If I run a 'cmd' ping test on the URL, it attempts four connections and fails. The windows host files are fine and I've tried turning of all firewalls, anti-viruses, malwares for a short time to test. Still fail.
Does anyone know a solution I can try?