Tech Problem Aggregator

y510p minor electrical burns

Q: y510p minor electrical burns

I received a few minor electrical burns while typing today. It turns out that the shield of my cell phone charger USB cable was making intermittent contact with my forearm and shocking me. Not enough to do actual harm, but it certainly doesn't feel good. After a bit of experimentation I found the following:1) Touching the USB cable results in a shock only if my wrist is in the typing position on my y510p.2) Either the laptop's power cable or its external monitor HDMI cable have to be plugged in to receive the shock. Disconnecting both renders the device safe.3) This happens with 3 different cell phone chargers that I tested with.4) I don't need to be touching any keyboard keys. I do need to have my wrist firmly against the laptop. Additionally, my external monitor has been flaky for a few months - it will flash off for a few seconds several times a day. What should I do next?

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Answer Match 49.56%

I have always enjoyed labeling and organizing my files, But as of a little while back i am not able to organize my mp3s or any type of file for that matter in a proper fashion because the options of the author the title and everything else you are allowed to label are not present. I used too use this to organize all my music and video files in a folder but now none of these options appear for me. When i click properties and heat to summary for any file It never gives me the options for these files there just not there. So when i try to organize lets say the folder by Artist or Album title or year or track number i cant because there is no category for it. I know this problem is minor but if anyone can help me out it would make my life easier thank you for your help.

A:Minor Issue Hopefully Minor solution

I would also like to add that instead of all these options showing up all i can see when i head to properties and summary then click on advance the only options offered to me are
track number, title and comments.

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Answer Match 43.68%

hi friends

i m facing lot of trouble due to lack of proper ground on to the electrical supply which i connect to my system....

can anyone suggest me any alternate way that i can use to get proper ground(earthing)
to my system

thanks in advance..

A:Some electrical suggestion any one

U.S. A/C has two prong (<pre xxx) and three prong (Type B NEMA 5-15 or 5-20) wall outlets
see this

Color Codes:

Black == HOT
White = Neutral
Green = ground

*IF* you are comfortable with working on 120 v/ac, you can do the work,
OR hire an electrician to change a two prong to a three prong-grounded circuit.

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Answer Match 43.68%

Hello BC, I come to ask you a question more than to ask for help fixing a problem.
On a few computers I have encountered, Windows 8.1, windows 7, vista, Ubuntu, and in both laptops and desktops, I will hear sounds. It is not on every machine and it is not only something that happened with one pair of head phones, but it was by far the most notable on a Ubuntu installed desktop computer, I could hear the computer...doing things, not the spinning of fans or the  whir of a hard drive, little electronic signals that were turned into audio. everything had a sound, and if I did the same thing, I could hear the same sound,. Moving the mouse had a sound that would go on as long as you moved it, loading a web page or a program, typing, scrolling, everything had a sound. Saving files, opening them. What is this? the sounds are not loud, playing some music will easily mask them, and they don't bother me, actually I am fascinated, what are these electrical whispers?
If I have unknowingly committed some breach of forum protocol please let me know or if I missed this being covered in another post despite my searches please direct me to it, thank you in advance for any assistance rendered. 

A:electrical sounds

This is almost certainly harmonics of the signals running inside the computer.
As you know, computers are processing signals running at very high frequencies - way outside the audible spectrum - but there also lower frequencies such as mains hum at 50 or 60 Hz depending on where you live. These two sets of signals between them can generate tones within the human audible range. For example two high frequency signals at slightly different frequencies can generate a 'beat' signal at a frequency that is the difference of the two frequencies. If this difference is say 5 kHz, it is capable of generating a signal at 5kHz, which is smack in the middle of the audible range.
On top of that, basic on-board audio circuitry is not designed and built to hi-fi specs. Separate audio cards tend to have better filtering but really good audio cards are expensive.
This is a very basic and simplistic explanation of a fairly complicated subject. I must admit that I have never been aware of these sounds, but my hearing is not of the best. I am a long way from being deaf but my high frequency hearing is poor and I have mild tinnitis from spending too long on military rifle ranges before the military decided that ear defenders were a good idea.
And don't worry unduly about forum protocol. Any reasonably phrased question is acceptable, and if it is placed in the wrong section then the moderators are here to move them to more appropriate sections. And unlike many, you did a ... Read more

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Answer Match 43.68%

hey, i have a pc and it is running on a desk. on one side is one pc (alienware aurora 7500) and on the other side of the desk is my old p4 1.7ghz. now i try to get the pc (p4) going but when i plug in the power supply cable, i get a current flowing through my case. i dont know if this is bad or if it can damage the components or what. the current is not strong enough to hurt me but it is annoying coz whenever i touch the case i get the current going through me. has anyone got any ideas as to why its doing this? cheers

A:pc with electrical problems

you have a bad ground somewhere. It is bad and dangerous.

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Answer Match 43.68%

okay, my machine turns on automaticaly every day. the past few days, ive come home and found it off. and its the kind of "off" that requires you to turn it off from theback, wait for the green led to quit flashing and turn it back on.
it started doing this 2 days ago, and now the HDD dosent even spin up fully before the thing shuts off. the only time ive seen my computer turn off like that is if the power blinks. i think its a feature in my overpriced thermaltake powersupply i bought 2 or 3 years ago. none of the fan wires or power button wires are bare or even touching the case. any ideas would be nice, cause i cant even get the thing on long enough to check my email.

A:electrical problems?

Have you considered trying another PSU?

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Answer Match 43.68%

The other day I noticed the internet was down so like usual I went and checked out the router. I noticed that there seemed to be a slight buzzing sound that went on and off so I unplugged the router, waited, then plugged it back in. The buzzing noise started again and this time it was even louder. I noticed it seemed to be coming from the router near where I plugged the power cord in. I am pretty sure this means that the router is no longer getting the correct amount of voltage but am unsure whether the problem lies in the adapter or the router itself. Does anybody know what I can do to find out? I don't want to have to go buy a new router if all i need is a new adapter.

A:electrical problem?

I would not take a chance on an electrical fire, replace it.


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Answer Match 43.68%

I've noticed that the computer I have at home is much slower (offline) than the one I have at school. The speeds of both computers are very close (school: P4 2.4 gig, home: P4 2.0 gig) and both computers run at similar settings. Maybe it's just me but when I take my computer home over breaks, I feel that my computer also slows down.

I was wondering if the reason why my computer at home was slower was because of bad power. (by "slow" I mean that it responds slower to user inputs, things take longer to load, etc)

Things to note:
-My house is 30 years old and -may- have crummy electrical wiring. (Although other appliances works fine)
-my school computer uses a UPS which is fairly modern (APC 350)
-my house computer uses a really old UPS which my dad bought 6 years ago for our old computer (P2 266 MHz)

***Could it be the wiring in the house? Could the old UPS be slowing down the computer? How come my school computer seems to work slower at home?***

Thanks in advance,

A:UPS, Electrical Issues

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Answer Match 43.68%

My PC stopped working whilst I was out. I had left it switched on and sitting with the desktop showing.I do not use standby or hibernation settings.
The screen was black. Restarted but it didn't even go through POST.The hard drive powered up but that was it.
When I stripped it all out the main power supply connector from the Enermax PSU to the GA-7VRXP m/board was badly burned on pins 19 and 20 (red wires, 5V) and looked partially melted.
I have bought a new motherboard and PSU and will look at the old ones later but before I switch on the question is:- What caused it and what about the other components? Is the fault still there, lurking to strike again?
Something obviously took alot of 5V current. What?
Even if I start with the minimum number of components and add one by one it could maybe go pop when the faulty component is added. Could the Athlon cause it?
Help needed, please.

A:Electrical Fault

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Answer Match 43.68%

When I play games on this computer, I hear a very faint (although it is louder in WoW than anything else) buzzing noise, which changes tone and/or pitch depending on what is on the screen.

I could only hear the buzzing sound when I used the Razer Barracuda HP-1 headset... as soon as I switched to a cheaper headset, I could no longer hear the sound.

I've been reading around and the problem seems to happen mostly if you use onboard sound... but I have an Audigy 2 Value.

I've tried moving the sound card in different PCI slots, which didn't help at all.

The buzzing sound persists even if all sound is muted. If the computer doesn't even recognize the existence of my sound card, I can still hear the sound.

Any ideas? Could it just be a defective headset? (The LEDs broke on arrival) Or do I need a fancier sound card?

A:Electrical Interference?

From reading other forums, it may be the headset or your BIOS.

A lot of people report nothing but problems with that headset and static, popping, buzzing, etc., that seems to only go away with a BIOS update or switching to another sound card.

If you have on-board sound, give that a shot and see if it buzzes. If it still does, try and research a new BIOS for your machine and please carefully follow the instructions for flashing it. I don't want you to brick your machine.

Let us know how it turns out!

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Answer Match 43.26%

Hi everyone. My first post here.Just going to get right to the point. I just bought new speakers (Vertrag speakers from Thonet & Vander) and after plugging them, I've been getting terrible electrical static and lag going on in almost everything I do. Whether it's playing games or watching videos or anything else. It happens like, periodically and I think it may be due to some electrical interference, as if I have too many things connected or something of the sort. I'm on Windows 10 and my computer is used for 3d graphics so it's not a bad computer and I also recently got a new graphics card.I'm also getting wavy lines on one monitor (I've got two monitors and an HD TV in my setup) but this problem is older and I thought my monitor was just getting bad, besides it's a monitor I use very little. I usually get some bad sounds from the computer shortly after I turn it on which I don't remember happening before. But it stops in a few minutes. Like it's coming from the fan or something. Now I had three strips of....connections...what do you call them....hubs? As in where you can plug....three or more...different....yeah you know what I mean. Now I had three connected to one wall socket and pretty much everything was there. My computer, one monitor, the TV and something else in the first one, I've got a router, then the box thingy for the high speed internet (whatever you call that as well), got the third monitor, that was I thin... Read more

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Answer Match 43.26%

what the heck does all this mean??? I am trying to determine if i purchased the right PS for my new CPU and MOBO, and I am thinking maybe me to understand this crap.
here is info on PS:

Intel ATX+12V Ver 2.0 Power Supply

ATX 12V V 2.0 :Support latest P4 Prescott and Athlon 64/64 FX processors based systems: P4 main boards that use 875 (Canterwood) and 865 (Springdale) chipsets, and also fully support power requirements for platforms using chipsets like Intel 925 (Alderwood) or 915 (Grantsdale) and next generation CPU.

Smart fan:After PC shuts down, cooling fans keep running for at least 2 minutes to effectively cool down parts and hardwares inside PSU and PC cases. Thus, ensure longer product life time of power supply and hardwares inside PC case.

Separate 12V rails:Independent 12V rails supply to MB/CPU and drives in order to provide stable and clean current to noise-sensitive devices, such as: CPU, add-on cards.Meet UL 240VA safety requirements

S-ATA connectors:Connect your system to the faster S-ATA interface for better performance.

Manual and automatic fan speed control : 8cm & 9cm fans automatically controlled by thermostat plus rheostat control over 8cm fan. Enable users to keep the balance between cooling effect and acoustic noise.

Extra Power connector:Extra 4-pin power connector provides high-end graphic card with stable current.

Reliability:OCP, UVP, OVP, OLP, OTP, and SCP circuits ensure system well-guarded from any dangers. Maximize safe... Read more

A:electrical jargon

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Answer Match 43.26%

What is the best Wire tester for laptops?

A:Solved: electrical tester

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Answer Match 43.26%

Hey! Think this is the right place for this. So the wiring is my house, not my PC, it's an old house with ancient wiring, no grounds and the power fluctuates and lights flicker at times. So for almost the past year I've had a $5,000 PC sitting gathering dust because I don't want to plug it in the the horrid electrical. Though I had an idea, there is 1 (yes one (1)) outlet that was redone a few years ago and has new wiring with a ground, so my idea is I run an extension cord from this outlet to my desk where I'll have it plugged into a (1350W) UPS that I'll have my PC plugged into. The UPS would protect against power fluctuations, flickering (same thing?), and brown outs right? So does this idea sound like it'd work??? I'm crazy excited! My PC has been gathering dust for almost a year (11 months!!!) and if this idea works I'd be so happy!

This is the UPS CyberPower PR2200LCDRT2U UPS -

A:Electrical problems with wiring

If that outlet is properly grounded as well as having a UPS it will work just fine so go ahead and connect it. Just use a heavy duty extension chord and you'll be right. Oh yeah don't forget to clean that dust

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new to the board, swung by when i noticed you guys are pretty good at answering tech questions...

my issue here is my setup has been flawless until i recently added a DJ Mixer to it. I used to have my speaker monitors (basically powerful speakers with their own power supply) set up directly to my sound card to play everything from my computer. Then I had an external Monitor to run a dual monitor set-up. I recently purchased turn tables so I picked up the mixer so I could have two channels for the tables, 1 channel for my record player and another for my computer. The new set-up was working perfectly until I tried plugging in my external monitor again. As soon as it was plugged in a high pitch frequency came along with it. I checked all the inputs and it is certainly coming from the mixer, the buzzing only gets louder when the mixer volume is turned up, and doesn't change when any of the channel volumes are adjusted. I also tried separating the power supplies for the monitors and the computer monitors and moving the plugs so they're not on the same powerbar, but I'm still not getting any solution. Can anyone help me out? I realize proximity between the monitors, computer monitor and mixer maybe be an issue, and I've been trying to move some stuff around but with limited wire length it's been a little hectic.

Please help a sound guy in need.

A:Electrical interference? Help with buzzing

Did you figure this out?

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Answer Match 43.26%

I have a P4PE-X motherboard which I think may have been fried in a thunderstorm this past week. At first I thought it was the power supply as it smelt liked it was smoked. Tried another power supply and the PC still will not turn on, both power supplies will light up the motherboard LED. This leaves me to believe it is either the motherboard or the CPU. Will the motherboard try to start up even without the CPU ( I don't think so). Is there anyway for me to test to see if it is the motherboard and not the CPU?? I would hate to go and by a motherboard and it ends up being the CPU. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks.

A:Help!!! PC Won't turn on after Electrical storm!!!

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Answer Match 43.26%


I have an Acer Aspire 5570Z laptop. I think the motherboard has a short ciruit. My friend diagnosed it for me with a multimeter. Also, my adapter contains a led. When I connect the adapter to the laptop, the led fades and when the adapter is disconnected, the led becomes bright again. The laptop doesnt turn on without a charged battery.

So, my question is, should i get a new mobo or can it be fixed?


A:Laptop Electrical Circuit

No. Get a good used laptop. Lenovo Thinkpad, HP, Asus. Toshiba. Avoid Acer, Compaq, Sony, and any laptop in the lower half of their price range.

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Answer Match 43.26%

Just hooked up to an adsl service (Bellsouth). In the past, with our dialup service, I would turn off the power to computers and pull the modem connection (we live in the Tampa Bay area of Florida - "Lightning Capital of the World"). I'm now concerned whether powering down will interfer with my dsl modem and my router operation (had some issues with both on connection - seem to be cured now). During the summer this is almost a daily occurence.

A:Power down during electrical storms

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Answer Match 43.26%

So I recently made a thread about having problems with my battery. In summary, pretty much my battery is plugged in with the ac adapter, but it's not charging. I've also noticed that I'm waking up every morning noticing that the life of my battery is getting shorter (losing about 5% over night). So since I can't charge my battery, and I don't want the life of the battery to get any lower, I was wondering: Does having my laptop turned OFF, but still connected to an AC adaptor, use up a lot of electricity? In other words, would this hurt my electrical bill?

A:using a laptop and electrical bill

Trust me. No matter how long your one laptop is plugged in, you will not have sticker shock on your electric bill.

The problem with the laptop is between the power jack and the power adapter. One or the other is shot.

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Answer Match 43.26%

I have a UMAX notebook computer with the AMD 3DNow 266 processor. I've been running the computer off AC for sometime now as the battery is dead & I haven't replaced it. When I plugged it in today and turned it on there was a clicking noise and an electrical smell. The computer appeared to be booting up fine. I shut the compter down and removed the cover where the fan is. The fan is not dirty & it is not obstructed. Any ideas as to what this probelm could be & the cheapest solution?


A:NB fan click/electrical smell

There are lots of wires inside their that could have melted a little to cause the smell... and the click could have been from the hard drive, floppy drive, or even sound card if it has one.

I don't really have an easy solution - there are too many things that it could be. If possible, I would take it to a repair shop where they will have the right tools to test it.
Get free stuff and help out a poor computer tech
5/20 new, unlimited, pay to surf site added
5/21 added interactive story site - it's fun!

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Answer Match 43.26%

I have an Antec p150 cpu tower with a nividia 7950gt graphics card
samsung hd going at 7.6k rpm and a gig of corceir ram *yes i know i spelled it wrong*. A Asus M2N-E mobo with a amd dual core 2.2 ghrtz with a audigy xi-fi non gaming edition sound card.
And i was wondering if a thermal electrical system is possible to install in my computer cause it is always warm and my room becomes a sauna and it gets rather vexing.

A:Thermal Electrical cooling for pc

Yeah, you spelt Corsair wrong. No matter.

This is where me and supersmashbrada gets into a few arguments

My POV is that TECs less than 150W is pretty much useless because thats about how much heat the processor puts out PLUS inefficiencies of the TEC itself. Unfortunately, almost all TEC cooling solutions have TECs below that amount.

This is all good, but if for some particular reason your CPU is constantly at 100% utilization, you'll see that their performance starts faltering. Overclocking is also not recommended because then you'd need a much bigger TEC to compete against high-end watercooling systems (which is STILL much cheaper than TEC systems).

I personally wouldn't recommend any TEC set which includes a TEC lower than 150W, and if I really wanted a TEC cooling solution, I'd probably just wire up a 300W TEC under a good waterblock. Unfortunately, you'd need a special circuit board to control that TEC, and thats where it gets complicated.

However, if you're NOT using something thats insanely hot (P4s for example), nor overclocking, or you just got money to burn, TECs will be a good choice, as they cool much better below a particular heat output. Its just not a good choice for overclocking enthusiasts.

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Answer Match 42.84%

I have a four metre long electrical drawing on paper. It is 30cm wide. Can I scan it and stoor it on my PC. The paper fades after a few years. What program should I have for this?

My laptop use Windows Xp home and MS office 2003.

A:Large, long electrical drawing

I would try using a good digital camera and see what one can get with it.

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Answer Match 42.84%

Last night got hit with elec.storm, now no sound. using w98,with epox mobo. using the on-board sound (realtek audio). I re-installed audio drivers from cd, and still nothing. The drivers also install a sound/diag utility called soundman. When I run soundman.exe, nothing happens-the app doesn't load. doing a ctrl/alt/del it IS running there, just doesn't load. I can end-task the app without getting no-response. I don't know why, if there's a hardware failure, the drivers don't load, or I can't get this diag utility to run. everything else on the mobo seems to work fine-went thru the list and everything ok. Before I go out and buy a sound card, just wanted to be sure I covered all my choices. thanks.

A:Solved: no sound after electrical storm

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Answer Match 42.84%

Just bought a brand new CM GX 750W PSU, after 2 days of use, an on and off electrical buzzing occurs, it's not constant. But after i shut down the com a less loud buzzing sound is heard from the psu I'm sure of it.It's non-stop, i have to switch off the main socket to eliminate the noise. What is happening?

A:CM PSU making electrical buzzing sound

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Answer Match 42.84%

Recently, when I was having a problem with crackling noise on my HTPC. I took the suggestion of one poster on the forum, who suggested using a spray such as this, because it sounded good to me. However after doing so, instead of crackling, there was no sound at all.

I've replaced the card, but now am wondering if I should ever use that cleaner on a computer component or not? Not sure if it matters, but it is the CRC brand. On inspection, it didn't appear to do any physical harm, and it dries so quickly, it doesn't seem likely, but yet I'm left wondering?

A:Electrical Contact Cleaner Spray

This stuff?

Were you using it to try to quiet down a rotary knob or??

CRC Contact Cleaner Demo.mp4 - YouTube

CRC makes several products--heavy duty de-greaser type stuff and lighter duty products for cleaning switches and potentiometers.

Take a look here:

Anyone use CRC contact cleaner? [Archive] - Home Audio Stereo Discussion Forums

I've never used the stuff and would use it sparingly if at all.

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Answer Match 42.84%

I recently had an electrical water heater installed in my utility room, which is located on the bottom (2nd floor) of my house. The old one, which was gas operated, was having ignition problems and needed to be replaced.

My router has always sat a foot away from the water heater, but ever since this new one was installed, I've been having issues keeping a steady wireless connection on the top floor. I think my router is experiencing interference.

If I open a webpage in Firefox while on the top floor, I only get a "Connecting" message on the tab... but if I walk a little closer to the vicinity of the router, the page will finally load. I used to get a solid connection from pretty far away, but now I'm lucky to get anything at all.

I've tried diagnosing the connection with Windows because I sometimes notice a yellow exclamation symbol in the taskbar, I can't remember the exact phrase of the issue it finds, other than a 'fix' resets the wireless card and returns the 3-4 wireless bars I had. As for the router, it's 3 months new and has been working fine up until recently.

I called Netgear support and had them help me change the channel of the wireless frequency. Unfortunately that only made the channel stronger, but didn't prevent the interference from going away.. unless I remove the water heater, which is just silly. Due to the short ethernet/internet cables that run into that utility room (I think my ISP had it installed that way), I'm not able to move the router... Read more

A:interference w/electrical water heater

Other than moving the router and your internet cabling away from the heater I don't know what else to do. Your hot water heater should be on a separate electric circuit all by it's self.

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Answer Match 42.84%

Hi all-

I'm having a series of strange problems with my PC and I'm at my wit's end, so I thought I'd post here.

My specs:
Gigabyte GA-MA78GM-S2H Motherboard
AMD Phenom 9850
4 GB GSkill DDR2 800 (PC6400)
GeForce 7950GT
Antec 650 watt power supply
Windows Vista 64

The system ran well for about 11 months and then restarted during a Windows Update and would not boot. After turning the machine off and restarting I got power to the motherboard (fans spinning) but it would not post or beep. I returned the board to Gigabyte and they sent me an RMA replacement.

I installed the board yesterday and the system worked fine for several hours. I was playing a game last night and after about 20 minutes the machine shut off. It will not turn back on and this time when I turn on the power it stays on for about 2 seconds and turns off.

I tested the power supply and it works fine with other systems. I've also tried a new power supply with no luck. I have removed everything but the CPU and it still won't power up. I've also tried booting the board while out of the case to eliminate the possibility of a short.

Could this be a bad processor or am I really unlucky enough to get two bad boards? I'm more likely to think that something else is shorting out my system.


A:Fried motherboard and/or CPU? Electrical problems?

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Answer Match 42.84%

I am looking for an online electrical/networking retailer that sell things like faceplates, cat5e cable, etc. What are some good ones you guys recommend?

A:Looking for an online electrical/networking retailer

I get all my stuff at Home Depot. I would bet you could buy all that from CompUSA or Newegg as well.

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Answer Match 42.84%

Hello. This is my first post to the forum, so I apologize if this is in the wrong section, but it seemed to be the closest match.
I built the computer I'm currently using now around six months ago. I didn't go the cadillac route with any of the components, but I didn't go bargain basement, either.
All parts were purchased new and are less than six months old, like I said. Below are brief specs, included so that if any of the parts are known for causing this sort of problem, maybe someone here will have heard of it:

Intel D915GEVL board
Intel p4 2.8 ghz (stock hs + fan)
1.5 ghz wintec ram
Sparkle power q 300W psu
Western digital caviar wd800j 80 gb
Samsung sh-s162l dvd/cd burner
generic floppy
sapphire radeon x850 xt
2 of whatever brand of fans came with my foxconn case

So, here's my problem(s)...

My vid card has been making a sort of squeaky-wheel sound whenever it's under load (not at all when at idle) ever since I purchased it. But I never isolated exactly what was making the sound and when until the other day. After doing some research, it turns out it's a hardware defect present on some ati cards. This is not the fan noise present on x850 cards, btw, but a separate problem altogether.

So I got that figured out and decided I'm rma'ing the sucker. The sound's...Broken-and-aggravating sounding enough to make me want it replaced anyway, but from what I read cards with this problem have a way of s... Read more

A:electrical/vibrational/other systemic problem?

Check your power requirements here

I would -highly- recommend a stronger power supply. 500W isn't out of line for this system. If you can fit a couple 120mm fans in there, it will take care of the vibrational problems somewhat.

Speaking of vibes, a trick i learned from working on cars is to take a very long screwdriver, put the tip on a component you think is making noise, and pushing your ear up to the handle. You'll definately hear it if the component you're listening to is the one making the noise (a word of caution: dont be jamming the screwdriver just anywhere, they short circuit things and tend to break fans if the fan is moving :blackeye: ). Touching the side of the HDD is a good way to see if it's the culprit.

Also, give your capacitors a glance to make sure they're not blown/leaking.

Let us know what you see/hear!

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Answer Match 42.84%

Can damage from a electrical surge be delayed?

My all-in-one computer wouldn?t even turn on for a while.
At first.
Keyboard error (went away)
Bios reloaded
Lost one internal usb port
Lost one Ethernet Port
Lost external 2.0 usb & fax modem
Lost high speed cable Ethernet ports, wireless still works (can exchange modem to use on old computer)

Did the online and offline including bios manufacture test of all the hardware, memory, etc installed all passed. For some reason, none of the test could see the bad Ethernet or bad internal usb port.

Then a lot later,
For some reason, all the USB slots quit after a restored from a backup that I just made. I just hope it will be covered under warranty. Any way to load the reload without a keyboard or a mouse?
I think surge protectors are a joke, the don?t work. Expensive or cheap.

A:Can damage from a electrical surge be delayed?

It certainly looks like the surge has done some damage.
I doubt it will be covered by warranty as power surges usually aren't covered, but certainly worth trying.
Surge protectors are designed to provide reasonable protection, but no surge protector can protect from a major surge, such as lightning strike on or near the power line.

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Answer Match 42.84%

What is the rule for running cat5e next to electrical wire? Is there any for cat5e for network??

A:Running Cat5e with electrical wire

DO NOT Run Cat5e with electrical wire, it can cause a fire or if it shorts out everything hooked up to the cat5e will get damaged

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Answer Match 42.84%

Smart Electrical Sockets Could Be the Next Botnet:
SOURCE: (ARTICLE DATE: 19th Aug 2016)

Smart electrical sockets might launch the next cyberattack, or might even put your life in danger. Security researchers at Bitdefender have found a vulnerability in a popular brand?the researchers did not disclose which?that they say could allow an attacker to turn power outlets into botnets, read your email, and even set your house on fire if you connect an appliance that could overheat...
[IMAGE: Bitdefender]
​The vulnerable socket plugs into a regular one, and allows users to schedule the activity of any dumb electronic device, with the help of a smartphone. The app is available for both iOS and Android platforms, and there have been over 10,000 downloads from Google Play alone. Bitdefender contacted the smart socket vendor, and they?ve promised to release a fix during Q3 2016.

Among the most destructive actions someone could perform is to wipe the existing software on the socket and to replace it with malicious one, researchers said.

?Up until now most IoT vulnerabilities could be exploited only in the proximity of the smart home they were serving, however, this flaw allows hackers to control devices over the Internet,? Alexandru Balan, chief security researcher at Bitdefender, said. ?This is a serious vulnerability, we could see botnets made up of these power outlets.?

Researchers who analyzed the power outlet have found several security... Read more

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Tech Support Guy System Info Utility version
OS Version: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium , 64 bit
Processor: AMD Phenom(tm) II X4 945 Processor, AMD64 Family 16 Model 4 Stepping 3
Processor Count: 4
RAM: 8191 Mb
Graphics Card: ATI Radeon HD 5450, 512 Mb
Hard Drives: C: Total - 941389 MB, Free - 865450 MB; D: Total - 12376 MB, Free - 1512 MB;
Motherboard: FOXCONN, 2AB1 , 1.00,
Antivirus: Norton Internet Security, Updated and Enabled

Hey guys, and thanks for taking my question in advance. The specs for the machine in question are shown above. Basically, all seems to be running fine, and I've only had this PC for a couple of days now, but from the moment I boot up, to the moment I shut down, I get this thin, tiny buzzing sound from inside the case. You might even say there's an electrical quality to it. I think I've managed to pin-point where most of it is coming from, and it seems to be somewhere near the power supply. When I apply gentle pressure to that part of the case, the sound lowers slightly in volume. It's not a loud sound per say, but it's plainly audible (perhaps because the rest of the machine is so quiet). It's a little on the higher pitch range. It seems to increase in volume from time to time, then decrease, with little explicable reason. It's odd because I could swear that it wasn't there when I first booted the machine after purchase. It seemed to begin after about the second boot up, and has occurred every boo... Read more

A:New machine making buzzing/electrical noise!

If the noise is a "buzz" the problem is generally a coil choke. If the noise is a "whine" the problem is generally a capacitor. Coil chokes are various sizes and shapes as shown in the attached pic.

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Does such a thing exist?

I sometimes find I need my external drive for like 5 minutes on the road without a socket in sight so it'd be great if I could just have it suck power from my computers USB port.

Or even solar power.

Obviously I wouldn't power something for a long time with it.

Or it'd be great if only one plug is available like at a coffee shop

Anything like this on deal extreme?

A:USB to electrical power plug? / or solar/AA powered

I think the best solution for you would be a portable hard disk that don't need external power supply. I've been extremely happy with Western Digital products, using this 640 GB as my "on the road" drive. It fits to my jacket pocket.


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Hello. I am using a Dell Latitude 1150. It has an ESS Maestro PCI soundcard. Whenever I use the laptop, there is a strange electric/electronic noise... it intensifies when I move hte cursor, and when the comptuer is loading. It is not white noise. It is not a ground loop. It is very strange. When I hooked an RCA cable from the "Tape Out" of my mackie mixer, into the input of the laptop; the recording was ruined, because of this noise. I will try and post an audio sample of this noise eventually. But... it is definitely digital. It is somewhat pitched; and reminds me of the sound cheap portable CD players make through headphones when switching between tracks.

Anyways, my question is, is this hardware or software related? ESS has not released any driver updates for WinXP besides what was on the WinXP installation CD. I have 5 other identical laptops, and they all have this problem.

Any help much appreciated,


A:Strange electrical noise coming from soundcard

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I have an emachine T1115 an recently I had a power outage but after the power came back on I couldn't start up my computer. I have a 150 watt PSU installed in the sysytem and I wondering if this could have possibly gone bad because of the power outage. I have a 250 watt and 300 watt PSUs here and I want to know if I can use these to try to start up the system to test if the PSU really is the problem or if the reason for the computer not being able to start is something else. If u think it is what could it be?

A:Computer won't Start up After an Electrical Power Outage

Most likely you are correct. Your PSU was probably damaged by the power outage. You can use your extra PSU's as long as they have the correct motherboard connector for your PC. Basically what you need to do is drop buy your local electronics store and pick up a backup battery (UPS). Then connect your extra power supply (either one that has all the necessary connectors) to the motherboard hard drive and video card if necessary(not likely in an emachine). Try to make sure your active powersupply also physically touchs the computer case so it maintains the case as a grounding point for your components. Then plug the PSU into your new battery backup and fire up your PC.

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I plan to take my ACER A500 tablet to England and Ireland next week. I figure I may need a transformer, but I'm hoping I can get by with a simple adapter.

My home adapter/charger is a 12V, 1.5A ENERCELL which I bought from Radio Shack. For what it's worth, it has an input rating of 120V - 60H, 0.5A. I've been told that Ireland and the UK runs on 230v, 50 hz with 3-square-pin plugs.

I just have to make sure that I'll have what I need to be able to safely recharge and use my tablet while I'm over there.

Any offers of help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.

A:Do I need electrical transformer for my ACER tablet in Ireland?

closing duplicate, please do not create duplicates for the same issue. Original thread is at



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I very recently purchased a xps 13 9350. I unboxed it last night and out of box I noticed that it would make a buzzing noise seemingly randomly. So I will list all the symptoms here and the troubleshooting I have done and maybe perhaps someone with more electrical knowledge than myself will be able to help.Symptoms
As I said there is an electrical buzzing noise coming from the top left part of the chassis, it is most audible near the escape key but it is in that general area. Escape key, the 3 key, the R key, and around the tab key.
If I were to describe the noise I would say it sounds like an electrical buzz similar to when something is shorting out or an arc is made. I would also say it is very similar to coil whine or the noise a mechanical hard drive makes when the read write heads are moving. It is also vaguely similar to the noise a cicada makes.
The noise also seems to happen randomly, sometimes it is present and sometimes it is not. The same is to be said for its intensity, sometimes the noise is VERY audible (can be heard no matter where you are in the room) or sometimes it is very quiet and can only be heard if you but your ear right next to the places I listed earlier.
Furthermore the noise seems to intensify when there is a lot of movement on the screen. If I scroll up and down quickly on a page the noise will become more present and get louder. In fact as I type this it seems to act up randomly when I press keys or it will occur even when I am not touching t... Read more

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I PC I built for someone has developed a strange problem which I have not experinced before but will try somethings next week... But if anyone else has delt with it could help me a lot.

The problem:
Sometimes, when plugging in a USB flashkey or cable into the FRONT USB ports, there maybe a noticable pop (static discharge) - and the computer will reset instantly. So either something is not grounded or shorting out.

System is over a year old - and this started happening a month or so ago and I confirmed it - but haven't had time to look at it in more detail yet. The system itself runs fast and reliable otherwise.

Its in an Antec LANboy chassis. Which has a plastic bezel around the USB ports (Chrome plateing actually) - It has an MSI motherboard with an AMD64-3500 CPU.

My guess is that the connector itself is damaged somehow or the ground-cable from the USB bundle has been pulled out somehow on the mobo or connecter itself.

A:Solved: USB port with Electrical short issue

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Hello - I just bought a new laptop recently and whenever it runs on battery power there is a high pitch electrical sound that comes out of front of the computer. It is a Sony Vaio VGN-FJ270, and the noise appears to come out from behind the LED lights indicating power/battery on the front of the computer. Any idea what could cause this or what could fix this? Thanks for the help.


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I bought a surge protector. The user guide says that it can be used only if the wiring is properly grounded in the apartment otherwise it cannot protect against surges properly and the warranty is no good. A green light indicates this on the surge protector. When lit electrical wiring is properly grounded. I tried all the outlets in my apartment and the green light was never lit in any of them.

What are my options?

Is there a special surge protector which works properly in such conditions?

What happens if I still use my surge protector? I suppose it is still better to use it then not at all for protecting my computers, right? It is still better than nothing, isn't it?

Can an electrician fix a problem like this? If yes does anyone have any idea what the cost could be for grounding the wiring?



A:Electrical wiring is not properly grounded in my apartment.

First off, the surge protector will do little or nothing without a proper ground connection.

If this is an apartment you rent, I'm fairly certain that this is an issue that the landlord should address. It's a safety issue, since the wiring doesn't meet the local building codes. You shouldn't have to pay anything to get this fixed.

The cost could range from insignificant to thousands of dollars, it all depends on the current state of the wiring.

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My Lite On DVD burner does a great job with Pinnacle software but won't burn data picture files using either Roxio or Nero.

Pinnacle Studio 8 produces perfect hour-long movies but data files produce coasters. I thought Roxio Creator 6 might be the problem. I just got Nero 6.6 with the same result. (I now have both Roxio and Nero loaded...could that be a problem?)

The Lite On does burn picture files onto CDs using Roxio. I need to be able to burn DVDs.

Any ideas for a fix?

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Hello. I have a question: when a dvd-rw driver burns more than 5 dvd-s consecutive, may there appear errors on reading? Because today I burned about 8 DVDs, then I deleted the data on my computer. Hours later, I ascertained that the last 3 DVDs i burned weren't usable(they couldn't be read by any DVD drivers). Also, is there a way to recover the data from those DVDs? (I mean that even if i let those DVDs inside for a long time, nothing happens, will for other DVDs the data is read in 10 seconds or so). Thank you for future replies!
EDIT: first, I thought it was a problem because of the burning programme i am using, ashampoo burning studio, but then i realised the first 5 DVDs were working corectly

A:When a DVD burns too much...

Quote: Originally Posted by emilyan2010

Hello. I have a question: when a dvd-rw driver burns more than 5 dvd-s consecutive, may there appear errors on reading? Because today I burned about 8 DVDs, then I deleted the data on my computer. Hours later, I ascertained that the last 3 DVDs i burned weren't usable(they couldn't be read by any DVD drivers). Also, is there a way to recover the data from those DVDs? (I mean that even if i let those DVDs inside for a long time, nothing happens, will for other DVDs the data is read in 10 seconds or so). Thank you for future replies!
EDIT: first, I thought it was a problem because of the burning programme i am using, ashampoo burning studio, but then i realised the first 5 DVDs were working corectly

Dvd burners do change over time, both from wear and from dirt. You should use canned air to blow out the drive then try the last 3 again. if indeed it is the dvd player then there still may be a way to salvage the data, but it will be expensive


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My friend's 1 month old computer suddenly stopped being able to burn cd's in session mode. When he inserts the blank cd, from the dialog that appears "how do you want to use this disk" he chooses the second option - With a CD/DVD player. Then he drags the files (jpg pictures) that he wants to burn to the window. It says "files are waiting to be burned." when he clicks Burn files to disk, he gets an error message: "Windows can't read the disk in drive D make sure that the disk uses a format that windows recognizes." This used to work fine. These are the same disks that he has been using. I've rebooted, did not help. If I choose the other option "Like a USB Flash drive" then it formats the disk, and I can burn the disks, but he wants to do it the old way. Any ideas? Thanks

A:Cannot burns cd's

Drive failure? Just because a new computer doesn't mean he didn't get a lemon drive.

You can try uninstalling the drive in Device Manager then reboot.

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the last few time I have try to make disk copy i am reciving a eror message in Nero I will include the log text with this
it always worked fin and I just notice the last few days it start this any help would be great

A:Bad Burns

The log shows a "Track following error"

Nero website says:

8. Why do I get a 'Track following error' message?

The "Track following error" message is a hardware error. It can be caused by the following:

Poor media - Try more than one brand of CD-R media to rule this out as cause.

Poor power - The electric power supply of your recorder could be fluctuating. If you have an internal recorder, try a different power connector and make sure it's not being shared by any other devices. If you have an external recorder, remove it from the external chassis, if you can, and connect it on your system as an internal recorder. If this resolves your issue, you need to replace or service the power source in your external chassis.

Optical head is dirty or needs alignment - Please contact your recorder manufacturer to service your unit.

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I just bought a couple of Verbatim 16 DVD+R spindles. To my surprise, they burn only at 2.4x and 4x on a NEC 2510. This is a 8x burner.

Burning Verbatims 8x (or Fuji's) DVD+R's have an expected 8x speed.

Is this 4x speed, because the 16x DVD's have a limited 'speed-spectre' ?

A:16x DVD burns at 4x only

Since that is an older drive does it have the latest available firmware? older firmware may not have the burn strategy for newer DVD Disc's.

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ok is my problem. I have been burning cd's for a good 12 years and Dvd's for 5 or so. I primarily use Nero7 to burn but have also attempted burning the same files in Real player and IT is failing as well. I have now burned 20+ coasters trying to burn audio WAV files to disc. Gets around 40-50% of the way through burn and then fails. Realplayer sometimes gives the error message that it MAY be that using the DAOnce feature (no 2 second gaps between songs) is causing this but I have even disabled the feature and still it fails. Nero is even less specific on why it fails just says 'write error' there is data there after the failure and it plays in most external players but as stated it is only 40-50% of the material. I have lowered the write speed to as low as 4x and still nothing.
I have tried burning multiple different files (thinking that possibly one of the files could be corrupt) but still get failure after failure. I have tried 5 or 6 different cd's worth of different material all have failed.
To throw another kink into this I have been able to successfully burn DVD video VOb files as well as DVD data files (those being avi files) with Nero 7 and the process goes along just fine.
I need help trouble shooting this pain in the neck. Anyone heard of this one yet? weird to me hope there is a simple solution. Thanks in advance.

A:burns DVD but not cd's

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I can get cds copied to my computer cant figure out how to burn them

A:cd burns

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hi yo guys , yesterday i had electrical blackout in my house and my pc experienced it badly as it won't boot up and just trying to " Verifying DMI data pool .. "

after i searched some usefull info i found something wwhich talked about the HDD connection , then i unplugged them and reconnect them again ..

1 of them actually works and it load the OS from it , but , my E drive ( who was the Data one - pictures movies etc .. ) just said that i have to initialize the disk :S which mean my 900GB of good and very important thing just gone .

about the second one , when i am trying to put them plugged together it won't pass the " Verifying DMI data pool " at all ....... and again , also in this HDD i have really important things..

anything you recommend me to do ?

thanks in advanced .

A:HDD issue after electrical blackout - verifying DMI data pool

That doesn't seem a bit odd if the port the storage drive is plugged into is now bad? Upon rebuilding my old Vista case for a loaner until a friend upgraded to 7 eventually the clean install on new drive with brand new board, cpu from present case when upgraded, new supply, etc. everything ran exceptional for a period of time.

After six months when the old drive started acting flaky that's when the new OS drive went in and within weeks missing OS and other forced to restart errors suddenly appeared and the case was put aside. When finally getting the case to go through I unplugged and replugged drives when at first not even seeing the second storage drive while booted live from a Linux stick which was definitely odd. That's when the second was left unplugged and Windows started loading.

Solution? I moved the two drives from ports #1 + #2 over to #3 + #4 where both are acting normally. That was a hardware side there. I could rule out any boot file/mbr problems right away as you found yourself. You may find moving from the first pair of ports over to the next two may rectify things or may have to try another cable on the E drive to see if that is now a problem.

One other thing which will be just as important is inspecting the boot order in the bios setup. It may be that the bios was reset to defaults making the E drive first in the order. That would automatically prevent Windows from loading when the second drive is plugged in and the bios is looking there for an mbr and OS... Read more

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Answer Match 41.58%

Hello all, I bought a Lenovo Yoga 710, model 710-15ISK, brand new from best buy a week ago and I started noticing something super annoying. This laptop has the I7 processor, 256gb SSD, 16gb ram, HD 520 and GeForce 940mx. Outside of the constant hum from the fan, my laptop makes a sporadic and intermittent electrical scratching noise or whining sound every time i scroll (screen redraws) or if I load a program like chrome or word. I've heard terms such as coil whine or piezoelectric effect? I am not sure, but it is quite noticeable and quite annoying! It sounds like this: the sound is loudest right in the center of the keyboard, at least for me; the buzz in the video was provoked by loading software and or scrolling up and down on a page or document From what i was reading, it sounds like it has to do with the CPU and the ACPI driver; another possibility is the Intel HD 520 graphics.  Anyone know what is going on, or how to fix it? Thank you in advanced!

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Answer Match 41.58%

Hello all, I bought a Lenovo Yoga 710, model 710-15ISK, brand new from best buy a week ago and I started noticing something super annoying. This laptop has the I7 processor, 256gb SSD, 16gb ram, HD 520 and GeForce 940mx. Outside of the constant hum from the fan, my laptop makes a sporadic and intermittent electrical scratching noise or whining sound every time i scroll (screen redraws) or if I load a program like chrome or word. I've heard terms such as coil whine or piezoelectric effect? I am not sure, but it is quite noticeable and quite annoying! It sounds like this: the sound is loudest right in the center of the keyboard, at least for me; the buzz in the video was provoked by loading software and or scrolling up and down on a page or document From what i was reading, it sounds like it has to do with the CPU and the ACPI driver; another possibility is the Intel HD 520 graphics.  Anyone know what is going on, or how to fix it? Thank you in advanced!

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Answer Match 41.58%

People on the listening end are complaining that my Bluetooth microphone is emitting weird electrical noises that sound like something between telegraph beeps and 56K modem screeching. Any ideas?

I actually have a recording of this noise, but I don't know how to upload it.

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Answer Match 41.58%

Logfile of HijackThis v1.99.1Scan saved at 22:50:54, on 04/01/2007Platform: Windows XP SP2 (WinNT 5.01.2600)MSIE: Internet Explorer v6.00 SP2 (6.00.2900.2180)Running processes:C:\WINDOWS\System32\smss.exeC:\WINDOWS\system32\csrss.exeC:\WINDOWS\system32\winlogon.exeC:\WINDOWS\system32\services.exeC:\WINDOWS\system32\lsass.exeC:\WINDOWS\system32\svchost.exeC:\WINDOWS\system32\svchost.exeC:\WINDOWS\System32\svchost.exeC:\WINDOWS\system32\svchost.exeC:\WINDOWS\system32\svchost.exeC:\WINDOWS\system32\spoolsv.exeC:\WINDOWS\Explorer.EXEC:\WINDOWS\system32\msdtc.exeC:\Program Files\Comodo\Firewall\cmdagent.exeC:\WINDOWS\eHome\ehRecvr.exeC:\WINDOWS\eHome\ehSched.exeC:\Program Files\Common Files\LightScribe\LSSrvc.exeC:\WINDOWS\ehome\ehtray.exeC:\Program Files\hpq\HP Wireless Assistant\HP Wireless Assistant.exeC:\Program Files\Java\jre1.5.0_06\bin\jusched.exeC:\Program Files\Eset\nod32krn.exeC:\WINDOWS\system32\igfxtray.exeC:\WINDOWS\system32\hkcmd.exeC:\WINDOWS\system32\svchost.exeC:\WINDOWS\system32\igfxpers.exeC:\WINDOWS\system32\mqsvc.exeC:\Program Files\Synaptics\... Read more

A:It Burns , Do I Have A Virus?

Hello amaker,Do I Have A Virus? Why do you think you have a virus? Disable your antivirus program and go here and run an online scan with BitDefender (you will need to use Internet Explorer for this scan). When the ActiveX Control has loaded, click on "Click here to scan" and grab a coffee. When BitDefender completes the scan, select the "Detected Problems" tab. Click on "Click here to export scan". Save the file as an HTML to your Desktop. Then click on the saved file and allow it to open with your browser. Go to Edit - Select All then copy/paste that log back here. Post the BitDefender log. Download ATF (Atribune Temp File) Cleaner? by Atribune DO NOT run it yet. Download and install AVG Anti-Spyware 7.5 (formerly Ewido) This is a 30 day trial of the program1. After download, double click on the file to launch the install process. 2. Choose a language, click "OK" and then click "Next". 3. Read the "License Agreement" and click "I Agree". 4. Accept the default installation path: C:\Program Files\AVG Anti-Spyware 7.5 and click "Next", then click "Install". 5. After setup completes, click "Finish" to start the program automatically or launch ewido by double-clicking its icon on your desktop or in the system tray. 6. The main "Status" menu will appear. You can select "Change state" to inactivate 'Resident ... Read more

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Answer Match 41.58%

I am wasting a lot of cd's to these freeware cd/dvd burning software programs! I need a program that will work properly with windows 8.1 64bit. Thanks everybody.

A:Solved: burns me up

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I'm running XP Pro with 1GB RAM (PC2100) and 2.53 GHz processor. The comp came with a 1X first generation DVD burner. I recently bought one of those el cheapos from Fry's (Emprex) all in one super fast burner. When I first bought it, it appeard to burn at lightning fast speeds using Nero. Now it seems to burn slowly and my used read buffer almost goes to zero periodically throughout the entire burn. If I even try to do something with my computer during the burn, the write fails and I end up making another coaster. I'm thinking that it could be bad memory but i wanted to see if any of you guys had a suggestion. Please let me know; I would really appreciate it.

Thanks in advance,


A:Can't Get 16X DVD Burns-Not Even Close

A one speed burner would see failures for two main reasons. One, the system is busy
with the write when you are then trying perform other tasks. Even with a dual channel
mother board where multitasking is increased, the cpu is still tied up with the write. It
gets interrupted with a sudden request to perform other tasks.

The second is hardware or software related issues have appeared due to age of the
drive and system as well. If you simply get a "failure to initialize drive" error upon first
starting the burn, the disk is not a coaster. On some softwares, you then use the copy
option to then have this feature write the disk after browsing for the temporary folder
with the five sections in it. This is often the software side. The second is a hardware
issue where the drive itself is failing. Or, another item like memory has developed flaws.

Memtest-86 V3.2 can be downloaded free at:

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Answer Match 41.58%

I think this has been a problem since installing SP3 but I can't be sure. I seem to be able to burn DVD's fine but cannot read them on the same machine. I can read them on my laptop at work. The DVD is a Pioneer DVD-RW DVR-106D and the software I use is CDBurnerXP.

I have researched this somewhat and discovered that it may be a Upper or Lower Filters issue. The Lower Filters data has two entries. Could this be causing a conflict?

UpperFilters GEARAspiWDM
LowerFilters PxHelp20 AFS2K


A:DVD burns but won't read (XP SP3)

Hi Ledg,

Here is a Microsoft link that gives instructions for Upper/Lower filter removal.

Be aware of the dangers of making changes in the regestry. Save the regestry before you start and a recovery restore point might be advised.

If that don't work, try reseating the data cable on the back of the drive.

Hope this helps,

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Answer Match 41.58%

After burning a cd on a Creative CDRW-rw8438e
, it says the cd burns successfully but then when i try and verify the cd it says its still blank. But if i look at the cd you can see that is has been written to. I am using nero. Thanks

A:CD burns but not readable

For data you have to either close the session or close the disc. For audio you have to close the disc.

I take it your are trying to read it in the burner. You need to provide more information.

Are you using CDR or RW? If RW did you format for packet writing? Recording on the fly or from the HD? Data or audio? AMD processor?
if you can keep your head while others around you are losing theirs then there is something you don't know

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Answer Match 41.58%

I recently tried burning a cd via itunes.....

All was sucessful untill i tried playing it in my friends car stereo, which then said cd error it cant be his stereo because i also tried it in my girlfriends car and also burnt several copies.

I've never had this trouble before as cd's ive burnt have always worked in my friends and girlfriends car. I've also tried burning via wmp but still no luck please help

Thanks in advance.

A:CD burns but will not play!

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Answer Match 41.58%


A:Cd Burns Successfully But Nothing On The Cd

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My DVD rewriter (NEC DVD+RW ND3530A) in a Dell desktop Windows Home XP , has worked for years but suddenly has stopped recording(burning). It reads files already on the disc(s) okay. I get the message that the drive is inaccessible and "incorrect function." If I look at the properties of the drive there is no tag for recording.

I really need this to transfer all my documents to a laptop so any help will be really great. Thanks.

A:DVD+RW no longer burns

Optical drives are all subject to failure after a few years of operation. Some sooner, some later. If it suddenly stopped working after being fine all this time, it is likely the drive has failed, even though it retains part of its function. Just the same I would double check the tightness of the connections of the data and power cables at the back of the drive and the data cable at the motherboard end. If that doesn't help, then you probably have to buy a new one. A new one is not that expensive nor is it usually very difficult to replace.

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Answer Match 41.58%

Hi, I have a problem with burning dvds. Everything will be going fine then a reset will occur. I have the error report from the last failed burn. Hopefully someone can help me or at least point me in the correct direction. Thanks.

System info is attached.


Windows XP 5.1
WinAspi: File 'Wnaspi32.dll': Ver=4.60 (1017), size=48128 bytes, created 11/12/1998 12:06:00 PM
ahead WinASPI: File 'C:\Program Files\Ahead\Nero\Wnaspi32.dll': Ver=, size=160016 bytes, created 7/28/2004 3:51:12 PM
Nero API version:
Using interface version:
Installed in: C:\Program Files\Ahead\Nero\
Application: ahead\Nero - Burning Rom
Recorder: <LITE-ON DVDRW SOHW-812S> Version: US0Q - HA 1 TA 1 -
Adapter driver: <atapi> HA 1
Drive buffer : 2048kB
Bus Type : default (0) -> ATAPI, detected: ATAPI

=== Scsi-Device-Map ===
DiskPeripheral : IC35L080AVVA07-0 atapi Port 0 ID 0 DMA: On
DiskPeripheral : WDC WD800JB-00FMA0 atapi Port 0 ID 1 DMA: On
CdRomPeripheral : HL-DT-ST DVD-ROM GDR8162B atapi Port 1 ID 0 DMA: On
CdRomPeripheral : LITE-ON DVDRW SOHW-812S atapi Port 1 ID 1 DMA: Off

=== CDRom-Device-Map ===

AutoRun : 1
Excluded drive IDs:
WriteBufferSize: 74448896 (0) Byte
ShowDrvBufStat : 0
BUFE : 0
Physical memory : 510MB (523244kB)
Free physical memory: 167MB (171292kB)
Memory i... Read more

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Answer Match 41.58%

I guess this is the right forum to post this in but I replaced my dvd burner (u can see the specs in my profile) but I replaced it because of problems before...and now I am having another problem. When I burn DVD files (VOB etc.) to dvd-r it will get to about 90% I believe and then it will say burn process failed. I use the newest Nero but I decided to try cloneDVD and try burning the dvd video completed "successfully" but won't play in any dvd player. I have tried multiple movies to burn but no luck...also the reason why I think it is the dvd burner is when I simulate the burn with nero it always works but when I try to burn it don't work. And I think it burns everything else fine for some reason it won't burn dvd video files.

A:DVD Burner burns when it wants to I haven't had a "failed burn" yet but after it's done "successfully" burning I pop it in the dvd player always played these dvds but it won't play I popped in a dvd I burnt a while ago that worked before and it still works fine so something isn't right here...I just don't know if I need to go get a new one or not...

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Answer Match 41.58%

I've pioneer dvr108 in a dell dimension3000ish, it burns discs ok, it also recognizes discs, but won't let me access the data/files that are on them( it will let me open jpegs), when i try open a file it tries but ends up hanging, i know the discs are ok as i've used them on other PC's, i think the drive is ok, even though pioneer think it may faulty, i put it in another PC & it worked fine. any help would be greatly appreciated & if you can't help then point me in the right direction.


A:won't read but burns

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Answer Match 41.58%

Hi there
I bought this Acer TravelMate 2700 with a Slimtype DVDRW SOSW-852S drive in december 2004, and some weeks ago it started creating problems.
when I was burning cd's at 24x, the data verification failed because of several data problems on the cd. I normally lowered the burning velocity to 16x, and some cd's later I had exactly the same problem...So I lowered again the velocity to 10x, which eventually started failing some days later... Now I can only burn cds at 4x, which takes about 26 minutes with written data verification. I already reinstalled Nero, and it keeps always with the same problem... And the cd's I use are Verbatim, exactly the ones i used on the first 5 months without no problems...
Drivers problems?
Memory problems?
I have a big problem here...

Can you help me?


A:24x drive only burns 4x!!

8 more replies
Answer Match 41.58%

I have just ordered some Stop Smoking downloads for my daughter. There are three separate files. I burned one file to a cd. I went through the process for burning a second file to the same cd, and it looked like everything was working just as with the first file, but when I then opened the cd, only the first file was on it.

So, I am wondering if there is a way to burn one file to a cd and then to burn another file to the same cd?

In passing, when I used iTunes to burn some songs to a cd, but left plenty of room on the cd, and I try to use iTunes to burn additional songs to the same cd, I get a error message that I need to insert a blank cd, which makes me wonder if there just isn't a way to do what I want to do.

Thanks, grandpaw7

A:Mulitple burns to a cd

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Answer Match 41.58%

I've been having trouble burning video files to DVDs and playing them on my TV. My latest batch, the first file played fine, the second file was a little jerky and the third file hung part way thru. I've had other disks that weren't recognized or took 20 minutes to load. I'm hoping for specific tips to solve my problems. Here are the details:

Operating System: XP-SP2
CPU: 2.0 GHz Celeron
RAM: 480 MB
DVD burner: Lite On SHOW-1693S06C
16X DVD+-R/+-RW; DVD+-R DL
DVD player: Toshiba SD-3969SU
Disks: Office Depot 4X DVD+RW; Office Depot 4X DVD-R
Video Files: Mpeg format
Software: Nero 6 using Nerovision 3

Specific questions:
1) Am I better off burning to +RW, +R, -R or some other format for best compatibility with a DVD player? I seemed to get better results with +RW than –R for a while but now the +RWs are failing consistently. People advise different things.

2) Would it help to go slower than the max rate? I haven't tried dropping to 2X.

3) I try to minimize activity on the computer while burning. I turn off email and don't multitask. I've tried doing a reboot right before burning to get the cleanest system. Is this sufficient?

4) Lite-on recommends certain manufacturers of disks. Does this make a difference?

5) I never try to fill the disk, in fact, I try to keep it under 4 GB. Is this a useful precaution?

6) The Toshiba is a bit finicky even with commercial DVDs. I often need to clean them if they have the slightest speck or smudge. ... Read more

A:Finicky DVD burns

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Answer Match 41.16%

Every time I experience an electrical power interruption (unfortunately it's relatively often where I live), my screen fails (turns black). When I restart the PC, the weirdest thing happens. On the Windows XP loading screen, the little blue squares become blurry, and after that, the screen fails again. And again and again and again and again. I never get pass the blurry blue squares.
Normally I retsart the computer at least 50 times, turn it off at least 10 times, replug the cabels at least 3 times. Then Windows loads... for a while. Could be 5 minutes, could even be a few hours, but eventually it fails again (screen turns black). *sighs*

At some though (after further rebooting/replugging), it seems to stabilize and once again I get to use Windows indefinitely (or until the next electrical power interruption, anyway). It happened three times so far. This is the third time, and I still haven't recovered from the current one (not sure how long I have before the screen fails again! I hope it's in the stage where it doesn't fail anymore, but pessimistic nature have me doubting it).

By the way, at some point I replace the screen (I have an extra) and cabels, but nada! same exact problem. I suspect it's the graphic card now, maybe it gets a little beaten and takes time to recover every power shutdown? I know, doesn't make much sense... but... really running out of theories here.

Any explanations? or even ideas how to fix it beside my crude rout... Read more

A:Electrical Power Interruption Causing Screen Failures (looking For Explanation!)

I can't tell you what's causing those symptoms, but you need to get a UPS right away. XP doesn't like to be shut down this way and the power failures may be damaging the hardware components. Once you get a UPS and your system is back to normal it should stay that way. A 600 to 750 watt unit should be fine. OPTI-UPS Enhanced Series ES1000C 1000VA 700WPowercom King Pro KIN-1000AP 1000VA 600W

11 more replies
Answer Match 41.16%

I have a samsung CD writer. The other day I tried to burn music to a CD RW (TDK) but I always got the message CD is protected against writing. I use Roxio platinum v 5 software. Plane CD Rom's I can burn.

Is there something I have to do with new CD RW before use?

A:CD writer doesn´t burns CD RW

Repeat post.

1 more replies
Answer Match 41.16%

I have bought an EliteBook 840 G3 (T9X55EA) with a 14" FHD (1920x1080) display. I do not know why, but it literally burns out my eyes. It feels like if you looked at arc welding - the effect stays with me for days. The retailer won't take it back, because I opened it to install an HDD, so there is no warranty anymore. This laptop will stay with me. I spent a week, trying different OSs, versions of drivers, brightness, PWM etc - with no effect. Is it only my problem? Does anyone experience the same. I am very sorry to have wasted $1,200 for a useless piece of hardware. I just can't look at the screen anymore, it hurts so much. My sight deteriorated because of it - now it hurts also with other screens. The question is, if I replace the display panel with a QHD or HP+ - will it a) help and b) work?

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Answer Match 41.16%

I just bought this cdrw burner it's a AOPEN model number CRW5232 i just upgraded the firmware for it from the manufacturer and it still won't burn at any faster speed my pc is
P3 700MHZ 384 MB RAM WINDOWS ME any help would be great thanks guys using ec cd creator 5.35 platnium with upgrades and cd/rs are 52x compatible. please help

A:new AOPEN CDRW burns at 12x not 48x

There could be any number of reasons why it doens't burn faster, I'm putting my money on the fact that it's an older system, and may well be running the drive in PIO mode.

1 more replies
Answer Match 41.16%

I previously had a problem where both of my cd/dvd drives disappeared. Someone on this site recommended microsoft support site article # 314060 which addressed this issue. I ran this automatic fix and regained my drives, however, now my burns sound terrible. I know it's not my player...previously bunred discs still sound fine. The sound is filled with static and breakups (but does play at the appropriate speed). Also, these burns will play correctly on my computer but, no longer in my car. I have tried several different speeds ( and as many different options that I could find to address this issue) to no avail. Any suggestions?
Dell DIM 4550, Pentium 4, 2.0GHZ, 512 RAM, XP Home 02, Svc Pk 3

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Answer Match 41.16%

I have an external Hard Drive that I leave turned on all of the time. I recently heard that external HD's are constantly spinning when turned on. Is this true? It seems like a lot of wear and tear on the HD.
Just a few weeks ago I had the HD in an external HD crash, I'm wondering if this might be some of the cause.


A:Solved: external HD burns out HD?

All hard drives are usually spinning all the time. That's one reason that they access data so much more quickly than CD-ROM's--they don't need to "spin up" to get up to speed. The exception would be if you had settings in Power Options to shut down the drives after a certain idle time. They are designed to withstand this usage, but just turn it off when you are not using the computer.

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Answer Match 41.16%


I have a problem with my DVD burner. Whenever I burn a a DVD or even a CD, the burner burns at around 2 times speed for DVDs and around 24 times for CDs. It is a fairly new burner; a LITEON 1633S model. The problem started when I formatted and now I have no idea as how to fix it. My computer isn't the best as will be explained from the specs i am about to post. But I am pretty sure i was able to burn media much faster then it is allowing me to now. Any help would be greatly appreciated.

This is the info that you may find relevant in a speedy solution. I exported my system settings from System Info is Accessories.

Here you go:

System Information report written at: 10/18/2005 10:44:21 PM
System Name: ANDERSON
[System Summary]

Item Value
OS Name Microsoft Windows XP Professional
Version 5.1.2600 Build 2600
OS Manufacturer Microsoft Corporation
System Name ANDERSON
System Manufacturer System Manufacturer
System Model System Name
System Type X86-based PC
Processor x86 Family 6 Model 8 Stepping 3 GenuineIntel ~733 Mhz
BIOS Version/Date Award Software, Inc. ASUS P3V4X ACPI BIOS Revision 1005, 6/12/2000
SMBIOS Version 2.3
Windows Directory C:\WINDOWS
System Directory C:\WINDOWS\System32
Boot Device \Device\HarddiskVolume1
Locale United States
Hardware Abstraction Layer Version = "5.1.2600.0 (xpclient.010817-1148)"
User Name ANDERSON\Colin
Time Zone Newfoundland Daylight Time
Total Physical Memory 256.00 MB
Available Physical Memory 122.95 ... Read more

A:dvd/cd burner burns slow

7 more replies
Answer Match 41.16%

hi, i am using a liteon drive for burning cds and dvds. together with win y2k and at my old pc, it worked fine. but now i am using it in a new pc together with win xp. all the firmware and drivers has been updated. (firmware 12/06/04 GSBC) and win xp does not find a newer driver in the internet. the dvd symbol is showen correctly. but when i insert a dvd the symbol in the folder changes to cd drive. and there is no option to burn. if i do use a cd, the normal window pops up and i can burn without any problems, using the burning-feature in win xp. can anybody give me advice? thank you and servus form austria

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Answer Match 41.16%

Hi, recently my CD burner decided it will only burn about 40% of the disc before giving me a write error. This is pretty annoying as I can usually only burn about 6-8 songs of an 18-20 song CD. I've wasted about 20 CDs trying to fix this problem, too.

I can't think of any recent changes that would have started this... it just started happening all of a sudden.

I have a Plextor PleXWriter PleXWriter PX-W4012A. It's about 2 years old now (maybe 25 or 26 months at most). My computer specs are:

AMD Athlon XP 2200 (1.8GHz)
1 GB RAM (not sure what kind)
Western Digital 120GB HD (I think, not sure of the model #)
nVidia GeForceR TI4600
Hercules GameTheaterXP 7.1 sound card
WindowsXP Home SP1

If you need any more info just ask me.

I updated the firmware for my PleXWriter and that didn't help. I tried burning discs with Nero Express 5, Nero 5, and with Windows Media Center--same result every time.

The simulation in Nero goes fine, but then when actually burning I get a write error after about 40% of the disc (it's different each time, but always around 40%). I've tried burning different playlists including ones that I burned in the past with no problems (so it's not a corrupt MP3 file or anything). I've also tried burning data CDs with the same result.

I can't imagine what's wrong... I've tried everything I know how to do. Please help... I need to back some stuff up, and I can't very well until I get this fixed! Thank... Read more

A:CD Burner Only Burns 40% of disc

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Answer Match 41.16%

When i make an audio cd in windows media player it works fine, no problems burning. Yet when i use nero, newest version, it gets like half way through and says error burn process failed, Communication Error. Im burning audio cds with both yet nero wont work. Any ideas

A:WMP Burns, Yet Nero Doesnt

Check on the Nero site. I believe you have to get a patch for it, you can't use both Nero and WMP on the same machine with XP. I ran into that too, I think Nero has a patch.

11 more replies
Answer Match 41.16%

i recently bought a fantom external burner which can supposedly burn dvd+ and -r's at 16x, but when i try to burn either 8x + or - dvds it will ssay burning started @ 8x but only go at around 1-2x, dma is enabled and my usb ports are all 2.0 (and set to 2.0) anyone have any suggestions?

A:16x external burner only burns at 1-2x

Is your burning software set up correctly, or is it perhaps a trial-version? These last are known sometimes to only burn at low speeds.

6 more replies
Answer Match 41.16%

My computer uses Windows XP. I have Nero Express Essentials to burn my CDs. It was working great, but now it's beginning to fail only on the CD+R disc, but it pass on the CD+RW disc. Do anyone out there know what's happening?:

A:CD Drive Burns CD+RW but fails on CD+R

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Answer Match 41.16%

I have a MSI DR8-A dvd burner. When I first got it, it burned at 8x. Now it burns super slow. Im using Nero, which says its burning at 8x but it takes about an hour to complete a burn. I noticed the burners buffer drops and rises constantly. Why?

Im running winxp sp2 on a athlon 64 3500+ processor and 1 gig of ram, so there is no lack of power.

I tried updating the firmware for the burner but the program said it couldn't find the drive.

I also tried different media brands and types.

Your help is appreciated!

A:DVD burner no longer burns at 8x

Sounds like your burner is not IDing itself correctly, or the firmware would find the burner. Try in Device Manager to uninstall the burner, reboot and see if it ID's itself correctly. If it can't tell the operating system exactly what it is, it will assume to be a generic 1X burner.

3 more replies
Answer Match 41.16%

Suddenly my dvd burner will not burn it's usual 4X, instead i can only get up to a max of 2X... I have an LG GSA-H22N, been using 4x Princos for media (and have been working fine until yesterday), have tried with Nero and PowerISO, both end with same result. Need help desperately as i burn a lot

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Answer Match 41.16%

I posted yesterday saying that cd writer wasntworking,well that seems to have magically fixed itself but now when i try to burn cds on windows media player it comes up saying cannot burn to cd please make sure cd is clean etc,it only burns the1stsongon the list??they are new discs.ive tried using a a different write speed (16x) butits still only burning the1st song,ive wasted 4 discs and getting pd off!pls help!!

A:cannot burn cds...only burns 1st song???

12 more replies
Answer Match 41.16%

okay here's the deal..I recently bought my new computer, upgraded it..I have a dvd burns dvd's fine, dual layer dvd's fine and cd's fine..until I chose to burn an audio cd to play on my home says burn successful, it plays on my PC, it registers as a music disk. But it won't play on my stereo!!! I have other disks from my last PC that i burned in the same way, with the same disks, and with the same software and they work great. why won't my disks play? anybody?? is there something maybe not hooked up right? am I missing a default setting? I checked everything..including switching burners and it's the same...

Freakin and tweakin here !

A:Help burns dvd and cd's but won't play the audio!

If you are not burning to the CD-R format, try that.

In any event you do NOT want to use an RW disk for this. It will play on the PC but not on other consumer devices.

2 more replies
Answer Match 41.16%

wmcnentre on my system only burns 1 track. Then you have to erase cd. I tried in wmp. I can not use "burn" function. ANy advice. 1-i have dvd re writer. 2. other cds in opt. drive play normally. i have tried using wav. and mp3. I have tried using other programmes to change file to . cda (without success)

A:wmp (7) only burns 1 track of cd at time !

takes some reading but prob overrun

1 more replies
Answer Match 41.16%

I have tried everything Sony technicals said.Removed Nero 7 and used Nero clean and registry tools, reinmstalled but no good.Made it the only Drive on the ribon cable and set it as secondary master.No good.

It's a new Drive only a few days old.It writes about 1.93 Gb then "Burn process failed at 2x (2,770 KB/s)" I am pasting the error log for help.
Home Machine

4C85-2006-3005-4001-0556-76E0-0900-4026-X8E5-**** (*)

Windows XP 5.1
WinAspi: -
ahead WinASPI: File 'C:\Program Files\Nero 7\Core\Wnaspi32.dll': Ver=, size=164112 bytes, created 11/2/2004 1:54:32 PM

NT-SPTI used
Nero Version:
Internal Version: 7, 2, 7, 4
(Nero Express)
Recorder: <SONY DVD RW DRU-830A> Version: SS23 - HA 1 TA 0 -
Adapter driver: <IDE> HA 1
Drive buffer : 2048kB
Bus Type : via Inquiry data (1) -> ATAPI, detected: ?
Connected to MMC as unknown drive with class-nr : 1
Drive is autodetected - recorder class: Std. MMC recorder
CD-ROM: <SONY DVD RW DRU-830A >Version: SS23 - HA 1 TA 0 -
Adapter driver: <IDE> HA 1

=== Scsi-Device-Map ===
CdRomPeripheral : SONY DVD RW DRU-830A atapi Port 0 ID 0 DMA: On
DiskPeripheral : WDC WD1200JS-00MHB0 atapi Port 1 ID 0 DMA: On

=== CDRom-Device-Map ===

AutoRun : 1
Excluded drive IDs:
WriteBufferSize: 73400320 (0) Byte
BUFE : 0
Physical memory : 501MB (514032kB)
Free physical memory: 252MB (258120kB)
Memory in use : 49 %
U... Read more

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Answer Match 41.16%

i have a self made pc specs are
msi k9n4 sli motherboard
4 gigs of corsair ddr2 800 mhz ram
nVidia 8800 gts evga 900 mhz
2 500 gb western digital 7200 rpm's
amd x2 6000 + 3.0ghz dual core processor
700 watt power supply

i have had my pc for about 2 months and since i built it at random times it will just burn up routers, i have tried different routers and wireless adapters and it just burns up the wirless adapters. it will work fine then start timing out then be burned up completely. i have never heard of an issue like this and have been researching it, so any suggestions will be much appreciated

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Answer Match 41.16%

I'm using the free Roxio burner with Windows Media Player to burn bought WMAs onto CD. I always start with a new, formatted disc which roxio always tells me is full and do I want to delete and use this disc. So I always say okay and Roxio will tell me my playlist will not fir on the disc (I use Philips CDRW80's - 80 minutes capacity - the playlists are always below 70 minutes). So I cut the playlist a little till it says okay. When it finally comes time to burn Roxio will burn each track TWICE! This is the most infuriating aspect of the whole thing! So can anyone out there help me and tell me what's going on and how I can fix it?

Thanks in advance!

A:Roxio burns tracks twice

7 more replies
Answer Match 41.16%

Hi all,

Please can someone help, I have been using Nero V6 for quite some time (without any problems) then two nights ago I couldn’t get it to open (Explorer sent up a message saying the application needed to close) then yesterday I managed to open it and tried to burn a CD to listen to in the car while on holiday, the process starts and freezes on 2%, I have left this for 28minutes on one occasion and it does nothing but the disc keeps spinning in the drive, the only way to stop the program and the drive is to switch everything off at the wall.

If anyone has any ideas please let me know.

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Answer Match 41.16%

I have just purchased a Dell Inspiron 1300 notebook running XP Home. It has an optical drive labelled thus:

Compact disc - ReWritable - ultra speed
RW DVD + ReWriteable

I believe this is a 'combo' unit. The instructions are far from clear as to whether it can actually burn a DVD. I don't want to buy a box in case it cannot. I know it can play DVDs and burn a CD beause I have tried that.
I don't even know the make of the drive as I cannot see a name.

Can anyone advise please?


A:Solved: Burns DVDs, or not?

15 more replies
Answer Match 41.16%

My burnner will burn nothing but an audio track, no matter what.

Something else thats odd, today I put a CD in a CD-ROM, different from the comp it was burnned on, and all the files on the CD were recognized. I took it out, put it back in, and now all it sees is a single audio track.

Any idea how to get those files visible again?
Know of any app that can get deep into the contents of a CD?

A:cd burns nothing but audio track

If your cd burner is new, I would check to see if the jumpers in the back are set correctly. If your cd burner isn't new, then check your all your settings on your cd burner software.

3 more replies
Answer Match 40.74%

I have an ATI AIW 9800 (with a TV tuner). It needs power from my PSU (cheap 350W PSU: +5V/35A, +12V/17A, +3.3V/14A)
Sometimes when I switch my computer on it starts beeping and telling me to
re connect the power to the Radeon. When I look at the plug, the end where
the red wire (+5V) is has gone totally black and is burnt out. I've already
ruined the only two floppy style power connectors on my psu and now I've
started using molex convertors but I'm getting through those pretty
Anyone have an idea what might be causing this? The +5V pin on my 9800 is also oxdized, what should I do with it? sandpapers?

My computer is
CPU: P4 2.4GHz (Northwood)
Mobo: ASUS P4S533-MX

Is it possible the 4X AGP slot is the cause of the problem? Since the signaling voltage of AGP 4X is 1.5V while that of AGP 8X is 0.8V. However, I've checked that 9800 should work in 1.5V, 4X.
There's another strange observation: I connect the power connector from computer 1 (a PSU connected to a P2 Mobo only) to my card in computer 2, to see if it's the problem with overloaded PSU. I turned on computer 1, then computer 2, it boot normally. Today I accdentally switched the PSU of computer 1 off, guess what? its fan kept blowing! It happens that the power comes from my AGP slot in computer 2 to that PSU.
If it's the case, I think the problem is due to "backflow" of electricity from the AGP slot to PSU...just guessing

Anyone have any idea... Read more

A:+5V wire of 9800SE AIW Burns in 2 minutes

Have you checked the voltages on your PSU? while it is certainly possible that your mobo is defective. the first thing that would come to mind to me would be defective PSU.

2 more replies
Answer Match 40.74%


Hope to get some help...thanks in advance!

Last night I was looking for audio clips of Simpsons characters (...yes, the TV show). I found a few sites and downloaded some very short clips.

With one site, I noticed something happened similar to other virus problems in the past. Some type of small error type window came up and I noticed a link to system 32. Shortly afterwards, my PC shut down automatically and has been doing so since.

I've run AVG and Spyware Sweeper with no theats found.

Any suggestions? I'm on another PC now to view responses.

A:Blame it on Mr. Burns!: PC Shut's Down Automatically

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