New box is together. Windows 8.1 64-bit.
When I look at my drives in file explorer, a couple drives have multiple drive letters...
For example, my data backup drive, which is only one partition, shows up as drive "Int data backup (T(T(T" - unfortunately, it keeps changing the colon and closing parentheses to that goofy smiley face.
Same for a couple others... I've never seen this before in Windows 7, so what is this? Do I need to do something about it?
Also, in "Devices and Printers" from the control panel, I have FOUR occurrences of "DIRECTV2PC Media Server" and FOUR occurrences of "DIRECTV Mediashare Renderer"
Do they have anything to do with the multiple drive letters? What the heck are they for? And can I delete them?
It appears your PC is connected to a media Share network5 more replies
My eMachines computer came with readers for various types of camera cards. How can I change the drive letters assigned to them?
Right-click My Computer, and then click Manage.
Under Computer Managementin the left panel, click Disk Management. In the right panel, you’ll see your drives listed. CD-ROM drives are listed at the bottom of the pane.
Right-click the drive or device you want to change, and then click Change Drive Letter and Paths.
Click Change, click Assign the following drive letter, click the drive letter you want to assign, and then click OK.
I have had a WD DL4100 for about 3 months, Initially set it up with drive letter 'W' assigned. As of today, the same device is mapped to 'W:', 'X:', 'Y:', and 'Z:' and even after rebooting the computer and the NAS unit, any attempt to disconnect any of those give the usual warning that there are files in use and disconnecting could lose data. Scan with AVG and with Malwarebytes both show clean. Any ideas ??More replies
I have a number of files on my C drive with multiple letters and numbers. I've tried to delete these by logging into Vista in safe mode and making myself the administrator of the folder, but I still cannot delete them. When I try to delete them, a dialog box opens and reads 'destination folder access denied' 'you need permission to to perform this action' . The folders look something like this:2a5ef2f3d00d234b9650f5. They are taking up memory and I'd like to delete them. Can you help? Thank you.
Most folders with alphanumeric names are created by Windows Updates and can't be deleted.
They aren't "taking up memory", they are taking up hard drive space, which isn't the same thing.
Not sure whats happening here but getting multiple displays for the same devices !!!!
Any fix, or is system Broken.
Looks like Ghosts of DLNA devices. Start by taking offline any DLNA capable gear, reboot the Gateway and also clear its IP Table.
Also clear out those ghosts from Devices and Printers.
For some reason this started in Windows 7, when Microsoft started to play games with DLNA and media Shares.
I consider myself an advanced user, but this one I've never seen, nor can I find info out for...
I haven't been able to plug a video camera or external hard drive into my computer via FireWire. I then tried a different cable, nothing. I then tried a different device and cable, nothing. I then tried a different computer with two devices, nothing.
My USB2.0 works fine with each device and computer. I also took the new computer into CompUSA and they tried their firewire device and all worked. I bought a new firewire cable, but I have the same luck with each device.
How can 2 external hardrives, and one sony camera not work, after working for a year. What happened? What do I need to do?
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I have the following problem: whemn I turn the pc on, I cannot type my password, as when I type the computer writes 2 or three characters at once. I tried to enter through safe mode but I have the same issue. Please help, I'm lost
Try using a different keyboard. Let us know the results.12 more replies
There are multiple websites that I cannot connect to, facebook, rottentomatoes, youtube, to name a few. Others seem perfectly fine. A few seem okay, but seem to be running slowly.
This is the case for both my computer (on which I am running Windows 7), which is connected directly to the router, *and* mobile devices which are connected wirelessly.
On my computer I have tried using several different browsers to no avail, but when I used the TOR browser to proxy, I was able to access them.
I apologize if this has been asked, but I haven't been able to find anything this specific.
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I bought this computer a week ago and am using the keyboard and mouse that came with it. The keyboard has started to type a letter multiple times even though the key is only pressed once....... Does anybody have any ideas why this is happening please ?More replies
my laptop keyboard is on the fritz. when i push the 'w' key wi appears on the screen my space bar has turned into my enter key my z key is now a 'za' key and my up arrow key is now my right arrow key and so on. i reinstalled the drivers and tried reinstalling the bios, i removed all power sources and even went out and purchased a new antivirus program thinking it was a virus but i'm officially stumped. please, please help, before i'm forced to take a sledge hammer to my problem;-)
You didn't give us the brand and model, but a laptop keyboard can be found for $25 to $50 depending on brand and model and where you buy it... Usully you remove four to six screws from the bottom, unplug the ribbon cable, remove the board and exchange it, then reverse and you have the new keyboard working in less than 15 minutes...
Finding the right keyboard is tricky, but eBay usually has every model available or with a gurgle search
This is the strangest error I have EVER seen in XP. I find no mention of this phenomenon anywhere on the web so perhaps I am the first? I surely hope not.
I have a Dell laptop with an integrated keyboard (i.e. built-in). Suddenly, and with no good reason, today my keyboard is acting strangely. Some letters I have to hit 3 times before they type. Others twice. And yet others behave as normal. The correct letter will eventually appear but my Lord no one should have to hit any character on the keyboard more than once.
I need this fixed ASAP because I am taking this PC out of the country with me and I have to be productive.
Laptop keyboard problem
This could be a failing keyboard matrix, fairly simple to order a new one from Dell and fit. Or it could be the keyboard software faulty. A way to check for a failing keyboard, is to plug in a separate keyboard, into a USB socket. If all works well, then the fault is the Laptop's keyboard. Hope that helps, if only to eliminate one possible problem.
Just recently I've noticed that my computer would run slowly while playing games. When I looked up the processes in task manager I noticed several processes running as an eight random letter .exe with the description of Google Chrome. I don't have Chrome installed on my computer. I'm able to find out where the file is located at and it's alway in one of the folders in my AppData\LocalLow files. I've found that if I stop all the processes it always starts up more. If I'm fast enough I can stop all the processes and then quickly delete the exe file in the folder and usually stops the processes from restarting. But I have to do that everytime I power up my computer. I have Norton but when I scan the exe file it tells me it's safe....... Please any help with this would be greatly appreciated. Scan result of Farbar Recovery Scan Tool (FRST.txt) (x64) Version: 24-11-2013 (ATTENTION: ====> FRST version is 330 days old and could be outdated)Ran by Munoz (administrator) on MUNOZ-PC on 20-10-2014 19:34:25Running from C:\Users\Munoz\DesktopWindows 7 Ultimate Service Pack 1 (X64) OS Language: English(US)Internet Explorer Version 9Boot Mode: Normal==================== Processes (Whitelisted) =================(NVIDIA Corporation) C:\Windows\System32\nvvsvc.exe(NVIDIA Corporation) C:\Program Files (x86)\NVIDIA Corporation\3D Vision\nvSCPAPISvr.exe(NVIDIA Corporation) C:\Program Files\NVIDIA Corporation\Display\nvxdsync.exe(NVIDIA Corporation) C:\Windows\System32\nvvsvc.e... Read more
Hello RG Golf I would like to welcome you to the Malware Removal section of the forum.Around here they call me Gringo and I will be glad to help you with your malware problems.Very Important --> Please read this post completely, I have spent my time to put together somethings for you to keep in mind while I am helping you to make things go easier, faster and smoother for both of us!Please do not run any tools unless instructed to do so.We ask you to run different tools in a specific order to ensure the malware is completely removed from your machine, and running any additional tools may detect false positives, interfere with our tools, or cause unforeseen damage or system instability.Please do not attach logs or use code boxes, just copy and paste the text.Due to the high volume of logs we receive it helps to receive everything in the same format, and code boxes make the logs very difficult to read. Also, attachments require us to download and open the reports when it is easier to just read the reports in your post.Please read every post completely before doing anything.Pay special attention to the NOTE: lines, these entries identify an individual issue or important step in the cleanup process.Please provide feedback about your experience as we go.A short statement describing how the computer is working helps us understand where to go next, for example: I am still getting redirected, the computer is running normally, etc. Please do not describe the computer as "the same",... Read more8 more replies
Our ISP recently updated their hard ware to work with the Sprint network. Note: our ISP is not Sprint, but the local phone company.
Internet: DSL 10.0 (highest speed available)
Modem: Comtrend (ISP provides)
Router: Belkin N
Computer: 10 yr old Dell running XP - service pac3 - wired connection
Kindle Fire (first edition, no HD, etc) - wireless connection
Xbox 360 - wireless connection
Xbox - went from constantly bumped from Xbox Live game by losing internet connection to not being able to enter a game at all
Kindle - went from occasional "network error' message during online tasks to having to restart download (multiple times) or refresh page for most any or all online tasks
Computer - have to click refresh to get most any page to load after the home page
What we've tried so far:
I have recently cleared the cache on both the computer and Kindle. XBox's new security measures have been met.
Do any or all of these issues seem to be related?
Is there a piece of equipment or something we may be missing to make all of these things work? I am a networking novice.
Who should I call to get these issues corrected, my ISP or a tech service? Note: if I start with the ISP and they do not find an issue I have to pay for the call.
First. You should try to NOT use a wireless connection for any type of gaming: PC, Mac, Console, etc. If you can hard wire the xbox you'll be waaay better off than using wireless.
Now... Yes, the issues could be related - there maybe an issue with the Belkin N router. I'd try to first reset the Belkin router to default settings, check on manufacturer website for instructions how, most routers you can press a "reset" button w/ a paperclip or ball point pen. Reconfigure the Belkin router, recreate the wireless network and see how everything works. If you are still having issues, humor me and connect the Dell directly to the DSL modem, bypassing Belkin router. See if you still have connection issues, if you do then it could be the DSL modem that is the problem and call your ISP to replace. If you don't have same issues then it's most likely an issue with the Belkin router. Replace it. Don't buy the dirt cheapest router at the store, but you most likely don't need the most expensive one either. Find a good middle ground router, ask sales associate to assist you accordingly.
Post back, Hope this helps!!
Have just installed a new 8.7 Maxtor in a P100. This drive is set as master and partitioned into 5 which assigns drive letters c,d,e,f,g . If I re-install the old 500mb drive unit as a slave ( Quantum Maverick) it assigns itself as drive letter D. I want this drive to show up as drive H . If I go to Device manager, hard drives, double click on generic ide type 47, settings, for this drive the drive letter assignment is there, but I cannot change it. Any ideas please.
I don't think you can change it. Normally the bios will take the primary of the 1st ide drive as c, the primary of the second ide as d, the next partition of the primary ide drive as e, etc.
I've seen a similar problem in this forum, but I can't find the identical problem or a solution.
Simply stated, I made a copy of my w2k hard drive using ghost and when I try to boot to it, I get an error to the effect that the page file is missing or too small. Safe mode doesn't work either.
Read on for more details. I have also posted this to Western Digital and am awaiting an answer from them.
I want to install my new drive as my master because I believe I am having errors with my existing drive.
I have a master drive (C: ) and a slave (F: ). Most of the data on the slave got there by running the drive to drive copy (not the install new drive) selection from data lifeguard (Western Digital utility).
Because I learned in the past that I cannot successfully boot from the copy made by data lifeguard, I used Norton Ghost (version 10.0) to copy from my old master to the new drive. Ghost has an option that says it can be used to install a new drive.
I'm pretty sure I kept the jumpers and physical drive locations straight through all of this. Here is where I am at. I was careful.
If I try to boot from the new drive as master with no slave, the boot fails. It tells me the paging file is missing or too small. I do not have this problem booting from my old master with no slave. In both cases the slave is physically disconnected. If I attempt safe mode with the new drive, I have the same problem.
If I boot from the new drive with the existing F: (created by... Read more
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I think this is a generic UEFI / Win 8.1 question (not dependent on model).
However, FWIW I have a Satellite P70-A01D (bought localy here in Australia).
This is a 17.3 inch Gen4 i7 4700MQ ? Intel HM86 ? 16GB RAM ? Win 8.0 64-bit.
I have updated the OS to Win 8.1
This P70 comes with an empty HDD bay #2 - so I have purchased a 250GB Samsung 840 EVO SSD which I wish to use as the primary Win 8.1 boot/system drive.
I installed this SSD into #2 bay and from there I had no trouble in using the Samsun Magician cloning software that came with the SSD (V 4.0 DC) to clone my 1TB system over on to the SSD.
There are lots of instructions from Samsun and all over the web as to how to clone and 'substitute' an HDD with an SSD - however there is much less available when it comes to 'adding' the SSD - in bay #2 - whilst still keeping the original HDD fully functioning as an extra drive.
After running the cloning software I tried just going into the UEFI settings on restart and changing the order of the boot drive ? placing the SSD above the HDD.
This worked ? however there were obviously issues still as I hadn't renamed the drives ? so SSD was running as system but it was mounting as D: and HDD was still C: and most system/application paths were still set to access C: !
It led to crash and reboot cycles of the desktop (?? &/or explorer.exe ???) and two consistent... Read more
I think you could try to change the drives letter as suggested in the Microsoft article.
In case this will not be possible, try to use a 3rd party software for example like GParted.
You could boot up the unit using the live USB version and could try to change the drive letters.
But it could be possible that your system would not boot up properly after such change.
Therefore you should not forget to mark the partition as bootable.
Feedback would be appreciated
Pretty useful modification if you have long drive names, or are just particular about your layout.
Drive Letters - Show Before or After Name in Computer
great thanks for the post easy to do and it looks good on the eye2 more replies
I've spent several hours doing searches trying to find a reason for the way drive letters have been assigned on a new system I put together today. Every system I have ever configured (starting in the late 80's) with 2 internal drives the first partition on the boot drive is C: and first partition on the second drive is D:. The remaining partitions on the boot drive get the next series of letters, E:, F: and G:, and the remaining partitions on the second drive go from there, H: and I. The Windows 7 Pro system I'm typing this on is exactly like that.
Today I put together a new system and installed Windows 7 Home on it. I was amazed to find the drive letters assigned differently. The first partition on the boot drive is still C: and the first partition on the second drive is D:, but E: is assigned to the second partition on the second drive (it only has 2 partitions). The remaining partitions on the boot drive are F:, G:, H: and I:.
The only thing that is obviously different on the new system is that the boot drive is a Velociraptor SATA3 drive and the second drive is a Seagate SATA2 drive. The boot drive is connected to the SATA3 port and the other drive is conencted to the SATA2 port.
I'm trying to figure out what's up with the drive letters before I install any software in partitions that might get a different letter if I correct whatever has caused this.
Thanks in advance for any ideas on why this has happened.
Not sure why this happened, but I think if you simply reshuffle the drive letters to match what you're used to (i.e. disk 0 having C: E: F: G: and disk 1 having D: H: I: ) - use Disk Management for this - then you should be safe and not have to worry about unexpected letter changes.
I believe that once you (re)assign drive letters, Windows saves them in the registry such that they become fixed to the respective disks/partitions for good.
I've just got myself a new PC here, and I'm in need of a virtual hard drive or two. My laptop which I still use has been running MagicISO/MagicDisc for a long time now and never had a problem. Since both computers are on win7, I figured it would be the same situation on the desktop, but MagicDisc will not let me assign drive letters to any virtual drives, making them virtually unusable, no pun intended. The drives have question marks, even after I select a new drive letter and hit OK. I've tried many different letters, so that's not the problem. Someone on a different forum said to add more drives and they would work even if the first one didn't, but I've tried 1, 2, 3, and 4 drives, all of them have question marks, none of them will let me change them. Normally I'd write it off as crappy software, but I'm conflicted because the same exact program works so well on my laptop, which again is the exact same OS. My laptop never had the question marks, it just assigned drive letters automatically. In my frustration I tried to go with Daemon Tools Lite instead, but ended up with a completely different problem where the computer freezes during startup.
Can anyone tell me how to get MagicDisc to work like it does on my laptop? Or alternatively, is there a better (preferably free) program for creating virtual drives? I've gotten the impression that MagicDisc is a little outdated. Keep in mind this is a new machine with anti-virus software, and the only thing Windows warned me to be c... Read more
Quote: Originally Posted by pegpin
... Keep in mind this is a new machine with anti-virus software, and the only thing Windows warned me to be careful with so far was MagicDisc itself. I know that's a huge red flag, but again my laptop has been running it for years without a hitch, so I didn't think much of it. Thanks in advance for any advice you can give me.
Perhaps your AV is blocking the software from running. What AV are you running? There may be an option where you can exclude the AV from blocking the MagicDisk software.
As far as alternatives, I use the freeware: Virtual Clone drive. I've never encountered problems using it. Also, in Win 7 & Win 8, you can simply double-click on the ISO and the OS will automatically mount it and assign it a drive letter. To unmount, simply right-click and select "Eject".
let's rewind time to about 2 years ago, around when I first got my day-to-day laptop. I used to have AVG installed on it. I used the file safe thing that came with it. It'd show the safe as a separate drive, on the "This PC" page. It'd have it's own special icon with a picture of a lock on it. Ever since I uninstalled AVG, any drive that uses the letter F, or G. It would show up as a blank piece of paper. I'll show you in the picture I attached... Would it be able to undo whatever AVG did to the icon? I tried the tool that removes every bit of AVG, incase it didn't fully uninstall, but it did nothing...More replies
I'm about to install a 2nd hard drive into my computer. Both the old and new HDs are SATA drives. Gonna use XP Home on new HD (its already on old HD). Physically installing the new HD should be easy. Its the set-up afterwards that I have questions for you experts.
I'm not gonna have several partitions. Just gonna have 1 big one like old HD.
My goal is to hopefully have the new HD be my main HD (since its bigger) with drive letter C:\ and my old HD being the back-up with some other letter.
I will change the bios boot order so it looks for the CD 1st since this is where I'll be installing windows from. I dont have a floppy. I have a reinstallation CD plus many other CDs with drivers and so forth so hopefully that wont be a problem. I printed out the order of installing the OS, drivers, service packs, etc from another thread at this great site so hopefully that wont be a problem either. Its before getting to that point that I have questions.
1. I should disconnect the original HD connecter and just leave the new one hooked up when 1st booting correct?
2. Whats gonna happen with the driver letters? I think the new HD is gonna get assigned the normal C:\ drive letter since the old HD that had that drive letter wont be hooked up. That would mean both end up with C:\ (when old one is hooked up again). I'm sure you cant have two HDs in same system with same drive letter so that wont work right?
I know how to change drive letters in XP BTW.
3. ... Read more
1. you are correct.
2. yes the new one will be the c:/ drive. the old one when hooked up will be automaticly change to a different letter e.g E:/
3. if the old hd has a windows installation on it you should be able to boot between the two hds. if you were to boot into your new hd the shortcuts on the old one will not work. if you were to boot into the original hd the letter would be changed back to C:/ ; therefor the shortcuts will work.
4. the first idea would be a bit easier (my opinion) but you could install the new hd before anything is put on it and it would be set a drive letter. when you go to install windows you will be able to select a disk (e.g your new one) to install to. and if the drive letters are confusing it should list the size of each disk so you would install to the bigger hd.
I hope this helps.
I have installed an optical drive in my computer today and my drive letters were changed. I have changed them back to what they were and after restarting my computer I was unable to log to Windows 8.1 due to the OS being unable to find user profile (my user profile is moved outside of the system drive).
I restored my system to the point from before the new drive installation, but I still would like to change the drive letters around, as some of my software relies on specific directory paths with drive letters.
1. The state from before the installation of the new optical drive.
Virtual Box (D:)
Program Files (E:)
Program Files 2 (I:)
2. The state after installation of the new optical drive:
Virtual Box (D:)
Program Files (E:)
Optical Drive (F:)
Program Files 2 (I:)
3. What I'd like to have:
Virtual Box (D:)
Program Files (E:)
Program Files 2 (I:)
Optical Drive (any letter, preferably X:)
My user profile WAS located in G:\Users
It is now located in H:\Users and I can log in to Windows. After changing the drive letters around to 3. above I can no longer log in, as Windows is unable to find the user profile on H:\Users anymore.
I use EaseUS Partition Master 10.0 to change the drive letters.
Is there any way I can change the drive letters and make Windows aware of user profile path change?
right click start flag > disk management >4 more replies
I use w10 on 3 devices, a mid range gaming PC, linx7 tablet, and lumia640. On the whole the experience is pretty good, syncing works well, reminders, alarms, contacts etc. This was one of the reasons I opted for android early, using chrome on a PC gave a similar, yet skimmed down, one OS feel.
I've not had one BSOD since updating the 'rig', my mobile works great, and the tablet is amazing for ?49! I was talking to my father in law who uses all 3 main OSs every day, and we both agree that windows just feels more 'grown up' than iOS or android. He wants a win10 phone next to replace his android (he'll have to keep the company iPhone4).
So like I said, does anyone else have a similar experience?
yeah i have no probs with my Lumia 920, HP work laptop and 2 of table computers at home.
just pisses me off to have the same background on each computer and i seem not to be able to find a setting to keep that sync out
I want to use the audio simultaneously from my ati 4550 HDMI, Sony blue-tooth speaker via usb BT dongle, 3.5mm jacks on my mobo, and also from a spdif and digital coax linked to the mobo via on board header to expansion bracket with ports.
I know this all may sound like overkill, however I don't have the funds for high end switches / replicators, etc. So manually changing them has been a hassle.
I have done some reading and I know se7en doesn't let you. I did this with xp x64.
Anyone know of a "work-around" or hack to enable all devices at once?
4gb Kingston 667mhz
Ultra MD3 Dashboard
Gyration RF MCE Universal Remote
From what I see, you can only have one "Default" Playback device so I doubt that what you want to do can be accomplished.2 more replies
We receive Email on Desk Top, Ipad and Laptop that is repeated each time we open a computer and look at the mail . Also have two programmes on the Desk Top that again repeate the mail : Windows Live Mail and Mozilla Thunderbird. This causes untold mail and most annoying. How can I just see the mail once on either of the computers. We run Windows 7 on the Lap Top and Desk Top, the Ipad is the current model.
Hope you can assist me please, my husband and self are not very computer literate.
The closest thing would be to set them all up as IMAP instead of POP accounts. That way you get all the same email, the same deletions and moves, and the same emails marked as read across all devices. It doesn't quite prevent you from seeing the email more than once unless you move that email to another folder or delete it in which case the same thing will happen on the rest of the devices.
You would have to check with your email service to see if they support IMAP and to get the correct settings. Or post your email provider here.
Also, I changed the title of your thread from your name to something more meaningful.
I use laptop, with system speaker volume too low, almost inaudible.
It has inbuilt sigmatel HD audio, with 3.5 mm jack ( I do connect my headphone with it).
I also posses a bluetooth headset (DELL).
Is there any way I can get output to both the headsets?
I need this to watch movie, so that me and my room partner can easily listen via saperate sets fo headphone without difficulty.
as far as i know you cannot output to two audio devices at the same time from one program unless the program alows this (eg. PCDJ)
To solve the problem you could get a 3.5mm spliter and another set of 3.5mm headphones but this would probably require a trip to an electronics shop unless you have one already.
also post what OS you are running in case someone else knows of another way.
So here's the setup:
Windows Home Premium X64, 8GB Ram, I5-3570K CPU
Recently built. I understand there's been an issue with Windows 7 using different devices for audio outputs. I was told by MS IT to use Virtual Audio Cable (VAC) for 'combining' my programs/devices into the same output.
My computer is mostly built for Audio recording (Audacity, Adobe Audition), and virtual instrumentation (Reason 5, FL Studio, Abelton, etc...)
My issue is that while some of these programs work well with VAC, key important ones such as Reason 5 do not. With my particular soundcard and driver, there is a degree of latency between the time I press a note on the keyboard to when I can actually hear it.
FL Studio automatically bundles ASIO4ALL - an awesome '0 latency' driver pack that comes with a easy to use control menu. ASIO4ALL is automatically selected as the audio card driver.
However I am unable to use VAC whilst keeping the latency low at the same time.
I need some help if you please!
I have a Sonar X2 (Producer) studio. Something like your questions would be better answered on a board such as www.gearslutz.com where recording and DAW equipment is the topic of the forum.
I don't like ASIO4ALL, it can cause problems. I've had problems with trying to use it when I had a Focusrite Saffire Pro 40. I've seen other posts (on other forums) about ASIO4ALL problems.
I have a Roland Octa-Capture and an MAudio Fastrack Ultra 8R and I only use the drivers supplied by Roland and MAudio.
I have an ethernet connection running from a router to another room and I wonder if I could use that single connection for multiple devices (computer, game systems, etc). Will a hub work for a connection coming from a router?
Is it possible to have them all up and running simultaneously or does it have to be one device at a time?
If it's a standard SOHO router, and not a switch or a modem, you can have up to 253 devices attached. (There are 256 addresses available, but you can't use the first or last address, and one is reserved for the gateway--the router itself.) Note that the 253 addresses includes wireless devices.
My system has a sound card and two USB audio devices. I can click the speaker -> options -> propertied -> mixer device and select 1 device and reboot and play via that device. However I would like to have all audio devices work at the same time. Is there a way to do this? If not, is there a way to switch without rebooting? (Windows 2000).
..................err? why do you need/want multiple audio devices from the one PC??????
i have speakers connected to the hdmi and have a fm transmitter connected to the headphones jack. how do i get the soud to come out of both? Picture:
You can't have sound from both at same time - it's either one or other because the headphone jack is designed to mute the speakers when headphones are plugged into it.
Ok, this isn't really pc related, but I'm sure it's an issue many of you face every day. I have a PDA/GPS, cell, bluetooth headset and blackberry. I use each every day, which means every night I have to plug all four devices in to charge. Does anyone know of some kind of charging station that would house all four power adapters neatly and allow me to charge all four devices from one outlet? Is there some kind of travel charger that would let me plug all four devices in to charge at once? Such a hassle taking all four adapters every time I travel.
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Windows 7 Ultimate, 64 bit. Home network. Already have 3 printer devices. One printer is All-in-One (HP). Want to keep that device installed and be able to use all functions. Want to add a desk top scanner for speed and versatility. The All-in-One is network cabled and also USB to my desktop computer. The desktop scanner is not network; would be USB to my desktop computer. I seem to recall reading somewhere (not sure of this - maybe HP literature to discourage buying other scanners) that you can't have more than one scanner. Doesn't seem logical. Is more than one scanner (using only one at any one time) OK?
As far as I know you have as many usb devices hooked up to one computer. There is a theoretical limit of 124, but it really is determined on how many usb ports you have as to how many usb devices you can hook up. Each device has it's own driver/software package, so I don't see any real reason you couldn't. I know for a fact you can have a printer (all in one) and scanner hooked up at the same time. My dad did using XP, Lexmark all in one printer and an HP scanner.4 more replies
hi, i'm relatively new here, so i'm not really sure how to do this but alot of my games are having problems i.e. ? has cause in invalid page fault in unknown. I am led to believe it is a soundcard problem, i use an onboard sound card with the VIA VT1612A 2-channel audio Codec and i look in multimedia properties under audio devices, i had two different ones, Audio for via Ac'97 Enhanced Audio Controller(WDM), and Audio for Vinyl AC'97 Codec Combo Driver (WDM), i was told by a friend to uninstall the drivers and then reinstall to fix this, i did, now on top of those two devices i have a second Audio for Vinyl AC'97 Codec Combo Driver (WDM). I also have three MIDI for WDM-based Device. ANd Mixer for VIA AC'97 Enhanced Audio Controller (WDM), along with two Mixer for Vinyl AC'97 Codec Combo Driver (WDM),this may be normal, but like i said i'm relatively new at this and it doesn't really look normal, so can someone please help me? Thank You
Look at the back of your computer. Do you have onboard sound AND a seperate PCI sound card? If so then you need to disable the onboard sound in the BIOS setup and use only the PCI sound card.
Now go to Add/Remove Programs and uninstall ALL VIA AC97, AC97, Vinyl audio drivers and anything else that looks like it goes to sound drivers.
Then go to Device Manager and uninstall/remove all remaining VIA/Vinyl/AC97 devices listed under the Multimedia heading. Reboot only after all are removed.
Then download the latest VIA Vinyl drivers. When you first run the new driver setup program it will look to see if there are still drivers installed, if it finds any then it give you the option to uninstall them. Do that and reboot.
Then run the VIA installation again and install the drivers, and reboot.
At any point Windows may redetect the sound card and want to reinstall the drivers - let it. Do NOT click Cancel on the Found New Hardware Wizard. If all goes well prior to install the latest driver the sound card should be detected as a PCI Multimedia Device and that means all the drivers will have been removed.
Here's the latest drivers: http://www.viaarena.com/Driver/Vinyl_AudioCode_v600a_M.zip
They are in a ZIP file, once extracted you need to run the SETUP.EXE file to install the drivers.
Hi, I recently purchased a HP Pavilion dv6974 Laptop, it came installed with Vista 64-bit. It works fine and all, just one thing I want to figure out.
The laptop has built-in speakers, a built-in mic, 2 headphone jacks and 1 microphone jack. I plugged my headset into one of the headphone jacks, my headset microphone into the microphone jack, and my external speakers into the second headphone jack.
What I wish to do is to set it up in a way that I can play music through my speakers, and Ventrilo through my headset.
The way I did this before on my desktop was that there was this option in the Realtek Audio Manager called "enable playback multi-stream" that separated the two audio jacks on the computer (one in the back, and one in the front). Then I was able to choose a different audio driver for Ventrilo, and use the default one for music. This was on XP, and I only had one sound card btw.
And now for Vista, I've tried looking through the Audio Device Manager and the Realtek Audio Manager but couldn't find anything that would help much, except in the Realtek Audio Manager there's this "tie up all input jacks something something, etc" that sounded like it was what I was looking for, but all it did was mess up my microphone.
To add more to this confusion, there is actually another audio device in the Audio Device Manager, but it's the Digital Audio Receiver, and I don't really know what that does.
I've asked about this problem elsewhere, and some peopl... Read more
Hi, ForeverRen, and welcome to the forums.
I think HP would be your best bet in this instance....as they would be able to tell you for sure if that can be done with their hardware or not.
I would like to connect a variety of wireless devices in my house to my work VPN while allowing other devices in the house access to my home network as normal.
I was hoping to find a wireless ADSL router that allows me to associate a LAN port to a VPN connection, then connect a wireless access point to that port. I could then run two wireless networks in my house, one that would connect to my work VPN and the other that would not.
Is there such a router?
If not, is there some other way of doing what I need?
Sorry for the bump, but would this do the trick?
I just bought a WD 1 TB to replace 120 GB slave (it was 'c:') I had. I intended to still use it as a slave and keep my 320 GB (it was 'd:') as the master. They're both SATA's so of course that doesn't matter so I just kept the 320 set as the primary in BIOS.
At first boot up the computer started fine but when it started Windows the previous devices hadn't been loaded and I was asked to register again before starting. I re-registered and clearly all the previous settings are gone.
I think this is because the drive letters were changed? Is there a way to check...is it something else? Can drive letters just be changed back and voila everything finds itself again?
Thanks for any help.
disk management in computer management access through administrative tools
right click on the drive in question and select from the menu to check
After I received my new PC I immediatly added an old HDD for backups.
however it has always been labled as H: and not D: as I would expect. how can I change this?
Also I have a DVD-RW... and a standard DVD. However in my computer it shows a 3rd DVD Drive (I:)
In devise manager it is called OM1279F IMN650O SCSI Cdrom Device.
I don't have a 3rd drive - how do I remove it?
From the start menu, right click on Computer and select Manage
From there, click to manage disk drives
Hopefuly this will give you enough information to figure out what is going on, and the tools to fx things (right click a partition to change its drive letter)
I have no idea why but I have an issue where my brother's computer after a clean install of XP from 98 exchanged ID letters. Drive "C" is now "F" and the Zip drive is now "C". It may have been something to do with SP2 which I removed. Windows won't allow me to change the hard drive back to "C" even after I made it available by designating the Zip as "H". Trying in Safe mode did not allow the change, nor did Partition Magic change it. "C" was added to the name but I could not change it from "F". I already started over and reinstalled XP but it still came up "F" as the hard drive. Things work after the second install where the drives quit after the first half-way into re-loading programs. Now it is just a pathway issue. What else can I do short of starting all over? Is there a way to change the hard drive designation? Any help would be appreciated. Thank you!
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I realize this is a forum for Windows 7, but I don't know where else to ask this question lol.
Earlier I made a thread about my mom's computer being unable to reinstall Windows 7 after a factory reset. I think I've found a possible fix for this, but I'm not entirely sure.
I'm currently in the process of installing Windows 10 on my own computer via the Windows Creation Tool, and I noticed that it gave me the option to not only install W10 on my own computer, but another's through a Flash Drive as well.
So my question: after I've installed Windows 10 on my own computer, would it be possible to also put a copy onto my flash drive to install Windows 10 on my mom's computer as well? And if so, can I bypass the product key requirement to get to the desktop? I've got some code that I used to grab my own product key in order to install Windows 10 for myself, which I can also use to retrieve my mom's product key if I can get to her desktop to open Notepad.
I've never booted a computer via flash drive, so I don't know whether or not I can do this. I don't have her product key, and I can only get it if I can access her desktop (unless there's another way, because the product key on the back of her laptop is too faded to read).
Thanks in advance!
Once you've made an install flash drive (or DVD or iso) from the Microsoft site, you can use it to upgrade any number of qualifying computers (genuine activated Windows 7 SP1) to Windows 10 without needing a serial. It must be the correct edition ie Windows 7 Home Premium needs a Windows 10 Home flash drive. A sneaky upgrade attempt from Home to Pro will appear to work, but won't activate (you will prob be nagged to buy the correct serial sometime in the future).
re : booting from flash - I found that the upgrade didn't work in that scenario. I had to run setup.exe from within Windows 7. If a clean install is your goal, once Windows 10 is installed, you can boot from the install media (flash, DVD etc) and install again, deleting all partitions. You don't need a serial for this, because MS 'remembers' the hardware and activates it accordingly. If you do this, all data and apps are deleted.
Edit - if your mom's computer isn't actually running, you won't be able to upgrade it to W10 for free.
I have an Xbox One, Windows Phone, and Windows 10 laptop. I have Hey Cortana enabled on all of them. I use it all the time on Xbox to control my tv volume and channel. I use it while I'm driving on my phone. I don't use it that often on my laptop, but sometimes I will use it to change songs or something while I am working. The point is, I have fairly justifiable reasons to have it enabled on 3 devices.
So lets say I'm watching football. I have my fantasy stuff up on my laptop, and my phone is near bye because its always there. I decide I want to mute the TV, so I say "Hey Cortana, Mute". The result? My Tv mutes, my phone and my laptop both tell me that they cant perform that function. I do that same with volume up? Same result.
Later, I say "Hey Cortana, call Wife". The result? My Xbox and TV either try to open Skype or give me an error while my phone calls my wife.
So year, having the same "Hey Cortana" voice commands for 3 devices was a poor idea. "Xbox, Mute" worked fine. I mean, I do feel like Cortana does a better job of understanding what I am telling it to do, but couldn't it have stayed as Xbox commands rather than Hey Cortana? I could just turn it off on my laptop and be happy with it, but I actually use it for my phone and my xbox.
Imagine when people actually start buying Surface Phones (if that ever happens). What were they thinking?
Lucky sod, we have three Xbox Ones, two PC's two Surfaces and three Cortana enabled Windows phones in our flat, we have discovered the meaning behind the phrase "She who's name must not be spoken"3 more replies
Slowly lost app's now have no control. Or admin privilege. The screen looks fake. There's drives listed I can't access. And every download was hijacked. Now theres no real Network or bios driver installed. after multiple attempts and no system functions available I want to use another computer and try to download virus software there. Noticed something strange happen and both laptops havea Dll bug long story short my Android, laptops, printer and router have all been hijacked and I do not know what to do at this point
I haven't seen or been able to find anything on something so expensive enedina have any other laptops that are accessible at this time so even doing it from my phone is challenging
I am using my phones 3G to type this and it's a real nuisance since I cannot research information for essays and other important aspects that I need when studying for my A levels.
Anyway, it started last night around 11pm, everything died and I thought it was because of the bad weather.
I woke up to sunshine however the internet was still not working.
The router is a SuperHub 2 and it had no problems up till now, the lights for 5Ghz and 2.4Ghz are flashing and so are the other lights on the router - this the router is working.
The problem is the connectivity, I use my laptop, iPhone and computer all together when studying and playing games. All of which has the same problem. All have the 5 bars connectivity however they all say "no internet access" and no response from the DNS servers.
What is the problem then?
What I've done:
- I have release and renewed the IPs
- reset router numerous times
- turned on: off router numerous times
- fiddled with wires to make sure they're plugged in.
- turned on and off computers and laptops.
- set IvP4 to automatic.
- waited hours.
- went onto the Virgin Media router page via 192.168.0.X. Then I started the router up in factory status, starting I up a few times.
How do I fix this nuisance? I need the internet now, for work purposes.
Please help, since it's affecting me and my family members and all of our devices.
Does the Virgin Media router page give you a status of the WAN?
We had a bad storm last week and it took a few days after power was restored for Comcast to repair their lines.
I was able to get to my router, but the WAN address was 0.0.0.0 - can't get there from here!
If you have a WAN address, turn everything off (no power) then
power up your cable modem, wait a few minutes for it to cycle through what it cycles through
power up your router (if seperate) wait for it to cycle through what it cycles through
finally power up your machine and check the network status on the Virgin Media router
If you don't have a WAN address, report the outage to your provider. They probably already know about your area, but a call never hurts.
Under XP, when I played an MP3 it would come out of my headphones and my SPDIF port to my AMP at the same time. Under vista I seem to have to choose and keep changing them manually (setting one as default) . Also, when I change them, it doesn't seem to take effect till I restart that application, mp3 player, movie player or whatever.
I seem to have similar issues with mic vs line-in. and switching between them doesn't always seem to work if in use and Mute options also seem to not kick in.
I read some scare stories about DRM but I'm not sure that this is relevent or not .
In XP, this just worked. sound would go into the IN's and come out of the OUTs and could be muted where needed. Does this work differently now?
Why do I have so many "base system devices" can I safely delete them ?
first, we need to know your system specs, follow this tutorial
Second, why are you posting a Win 8 issue in sevenforums when there is eightforums?
I'm not entirely sure if this is a Windows Sound issue or a hardware issue, so I'm asking this question both here and in a Windows Community Forum. Is it possible to output audio to multiple devices (i. e., can one assign more than one "Default Device")? For example, can I output to the USB-S/P-Dif device connected to my stereo and the bluetooth device driving my outdoor speakers simultaneously? I have an Envy dv7-7255dx, with the IDT Hi-Def audio codec, running 64-bit Windows 10 Home. Thanks!More replies
I'm trying to use my speakers for everything except one program. I want to use my headphones for a chat program called Ventrillo. any ideas or suggestions?
I've tried just about everything I could think of and still nothing. Tried changing audio output settings on everything and still cant figure it out. Anyone know if its even possible?
Does anyone know if Windows 8 will intergrate multiple output devices to play at the same time? Windows 7 doesn't do it... which is stupid. Pirates will always find a way to bypass this, but I'm stuck without this important feature!!! This is absolutely CRUCIAL for HTPC (home theatre PC) people and/or DJ's or Music producers / Artists. I also use audio levelers like SRS audio essentials which is considered another audio playback device. This is truly ridiculous that I paid all of this money for Windows 7 and I can't play to 2 sets of speakers at the same time. And if I want to switch to headphones for a second for any particular reason, i have to go through a process... and make it the default device and when I want to go back to watching tv I have to go through the process again...... SO ANNOYING..... it's my computer, I should be able to play to ALLLLLLLL of my devices. That's why I buy all these devices so I can use them all simultaneously. This is so basic. Can you please update Windows 7 with multiple playback on all devices. I don't copyright infringe or rip dvd's to external sources, but even if I was a shady individual, which I'm NOT, I don't need multiple playback device to do this. You're only hurting ME, the consumer that pays for things I use. It's MADDENING. PLEASE UPDATE YOUR PLAYBACK DEVICES TO INCLUDE SIMULTANEOUS OUTPUT PLAYBACK TO ALL DEVICES.... OR AT LEAST SEVERAL... I mean really... for this stage of technology, this is totally ridiculous.
better to ask this question here
Windows 8 Forums
The people frequenting there have more direct experience with windows 8 than the average user here.
I've googled this endlessly with no result and I'm guessing it isn't possible but I may as well ask.
My laptop has one audio/mic port. I'm cheap and had a splitter laying around, my headphones, and a set of ear buds with a mic on it I combined to use as a headset.
This works fine, however, since the sound output is being split to both my ear buds and headphones, it doesn't sound as good and some things are faint, which isn't good for gaming.
Is there a way to manage my audio devices so that my ear buds is mic only and no sound, and my headphones get all the sound? I've found no options in Windows, just playback (speakers) and recording (mic). I assume because it's only one jack it isn't, but it can't hurt to ask.
So my household needs to upgrade internet. Our internet speeds are slow (3mbps) and my mom works at home with various computer programs as she processes documents and claims.She cannot deal with the lag in her internet speed caused by my brother playing his new xbox one (which I've heard takes up the internet like no other) and me browsing the net all at once.
I'm asking because I don't know about internet speeds, our current plan in our area is the best one (I know 3mbps is not alot) but apparently that is the highest service AT&T U-verse provides.
So I'm wondering if anyone knows what would be a good speed for internet considering all of this, it know this isn't exactly a computer problem but I wouldn't know where else to ask.
Thank you for your help!
So I'm wondering if anyone knows what would be a good speed for internet considering all of this, it know this isn't exactly a computer problem but I wouldn't know where else to ask.Click to expand...
No problem, this is the right section to ask in.
Now I'm a bit confused as to whether your potential Internet speed would be 3Mbps or 5Mbps (conflicting information in title and post). Either way, you're right that that isn't very much bandwidth. Your mom should be able to do her computer work assuming the file transfers she performs involve smaller Word, PDF, and text documents. The primary factors here will be what you do while web browsing, and the Xbox One connection.
You likely won't be able to play Xbox and stream video well simultaneously - that isn't even taking into account possible file transfers of your mom's.
I'm not sure where you live, but most developed areas in the United States have Internet speeds much higher than this. I recommend doing some research online to find out if this truly is your only option. With modern Internet content, I would say ~10Mbps is a good minimum recommendation for a pleasant browsing experience.
If you cannot find/get an Internet connection with increased bandwidth, then you all may need to dedicate times for certain activities on the Internet.
I have a dell dimension 2400 that I think is going kaput. I've had to format one drive twice and an alternate drive once (merely to test that the first hard drive wasn't the issue.) My primary problem and reason for my first reinstall was an OS hanging issue probably due to some hardware conflict somewhere - various solutions such as safe mode, repairing install and fixboot would not work (scared to use fixmbr without first checking all my options.)
Three soft formats later and both of my hard drive installs are ticking my ethernet adapter, among other devices, with a question mark. As an example, I've used the OEM disks provided for the 3com 4011 integrated ethernet controller, selected the appropriate driver and ended up with a code 10 on it. I boot to safe made and check all the hidden devices for obvious conflicts but no such luck, there are no other NICs installed on my PC and the rest cannot be removed ("you need this device to boot" message on uninstall attempt")
Does anyone know where I can find out which resources my device wants to use?
quick edit: it is XP
could it be a ghost device driver sucking up resources from a previous install?
question the third: HAAALP! according to the utility partition manager my system is in full working order (ha.)
many thanks for your gratuitous help.
I'm adding an everest report of the hardware for your viewing pleasure.
it can be viewed here:
I've read through a could of threads but have yet to find any answers for my problem. Basically my internet runs fine when a device is directly connected to my modem. However, when running through a router I get 2-10 second disconnects at random intervals on all devices hooked up to the router, be it wired or wireless. I've already tired three different router, all different brands, among other various things like updating/switch firmware and changing the router over to a new wall socket with no luck. I had my service provider come out and switch the modem, but that didn't help any. Any help would be appreciated.
what cable is between the router and modem - has this been changed ?
you mention "wall socket"
As you have made a lot of changes to the modem and to the router(s) - i can only think of cable
Before making each connection , do a powercycle - see how below
connect with a small cable between the modem and PC - and that works fine
then with a 2nd cable - do the same
now you have two cables that you know work on the modem
Also while in that configuration post an ipconfig /all - see how below
then using the same cables - connect from the modem to the router
and using the known cable connect the PC to the router
Now test again and see if this time it works
We would like to see the results from an ipconfig /all - post back the results in a reply here.
If you cannot access the internet with this PC, then you will need to paste the results into something like notepad and then copy onto a machine that can access the internet and post the results in a reply here.
Save the file to a USB flash drive or other removable media. Plug it into the working computer with internet access and copy the file and paste here.
If you do not have another PC - do you have a phone connected to the internet - can you photograph the result and post the image in a reply
Note: you will see entries named Tunnel adapter Teredo Tunneling Pseudo-Interface: we dont need to see that information - JUST the information above those entries
For Windows 8 or Windows 10
To open a Cm... Read more
So on my home network, we have your normal cable modem, router, and gigabit switch setup. The router is a high speed linksys model (gigabit), and the gigabit switch is an 8 port. The ethernet goes all through the house, but I've recently built a media room. In this room I have a Zensonic High-def network dvd player for streaming media, a gaming/media pc, an xbox 360, ps3, modded xbox 1 for more media streaming and a wii. The wii isn't really relevant to the problem because it is wifi, but I'm proud of my media room.
The problem was that I needed to network all of these, and when the house was built, we only ran one ethernet port into the room. No big deal I thought, because as long as I'm just streaming media, a 10/100 switch would be sufficient. So I pulled out an old hub (not a switch). All of these devices were hooked up and it worked great. Then one day, it all just stopped. The hub was old, so I ran out and got a netgear fs605 switch on sale for 5 bucks at office depot. This still hasn't fixed the problem, but has helped me diagnose it. When I plug in the uplink, I get a blinking response. When I plug in the next device, it works and is recognized. However, every device after that causes the switch to stop working and just start blinking. No activity, it looks like an error code of some kind. Have I put too much on this little switch? It was working just fine for months on just a hub. Any thoughts?
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I seem to have a bug in the USB drivers or such that I need help with analyzing. I have tried deleting the USB drivers and letting the system update the driver. I am rather a newbie at system diagnostics but somewhat proficient at computers so hopefully with your help I can iron this problem out. Thanks very much ahead of time
HP dm4 laptop
Toshiba 500GB HD
You have both Norton Internet Security and AVG installed. Please remove one or the other and see if your system is then stable.
Norton Removal ToolHaving two security programs that accomplish the same tasks can cause conflicts/freezes/hangs/crashes/etc. due to them using the same system resources simultaneously. If you had tried to remove one prior to installing the other, it may be that remnants remain and you should contact support for that product to get it properly removed now.
Right now I have my computer hooked up to two sets of I/O devices (mouse, keyboard, monitor) and I was wondering if you can separate them so that for example I can surf the web on one set and have a friend play a game on the other. Currently they show and control the same things.
Both monitors are on the same graphics card, one mouse/keyboard is USB the other PS/2
Thanks for any help.
Nope, there is only one console manager. Since you already have the monitor and keyboard, why not find a cheap machine and just have two?1 more replies
Hi guys. I have my TV connected via HDMI through my video card to my computer and also run sound through my computers speakers with the onboard sound. Normally I just change the audio device before opening a program depending on whether I want it on the TV speakers or computer speakers. The problem is that sporadically when I select the device for the TV speakers it doesn't provide any sound and no combination of turning the TV on and off, changing the audio device back and forth etc will let give sound on the TV speakers (but when i change to the computer speakers it works fine). I can't seem to reproduce the problem either, it just happens sporadically and the only solution is to restart the computer.
I have vista 32 bit ultimate. Any suggestions?
The small office where I work has 1 wired desktop, 1 desktop connected over wireless, 2 laptops connected over wireless and two iphones that are always connected to the internet. Until about 12:45 pm EST the wireless internet was working fine, at that time the wireless went down. However, the wired desktop has had no trouble connecting to the internet. Please help, we need to be up and running and our IT guy has disappeared off the face of the earth! Thank you!
The router is a Cisco WRVS4400N. It is one MacBook Pro, a Toshiba Laptop and a Dell desktop that is connected by D-Link DWA-131. Its a Comcast X-Finity 56 MBPS connection. (we're really close to an airbase).
Reset or power cycle the router. Can you still detect the wireless network? If so, can you connect to it? If so, can you communicate with the router via wireless?
I noticed a problem in my keyboard recently, but i'm not sure if it's really on the keyboard, and might be in the windows or software related. The problem is that the keyboard randomly starts freezing, it's hard to explain with words, basically the keys do not operate in the way they should, i notice this problem usually when i'm playing games, where my "W" that should move my character forward continuously. does not, instead of doing what it's supposed to do my character goes forward while freezing along the way. When i unplug, and plug it again on the USB port, even on a different one, the keybord start to operate normally again, but randomly shows this problem from time to time. It's not only with the "W" key, was just an example.
I noticed something yesterday, i don't if it's supposed to be that way, and i can't find any information about, it's that on device manager it shows multiple devices on the keyboard section, when the device is connected, as it shows in the image below:
One more thing, is all of them looks like the same thing, but i'm not sure if they really are, image below:
If i uninstall all of them, except that one that i marked with purple, he is the 4th one in the first image, the keyboard still operates, i'm not sure if the problem is fixed by that, cause it does not happen all the time.
Now that i described everything, i want to ask 2 questions:
1) Showing these multiple devices is normal? Cause i plugged anot... Read more
Is there a script to run remotely that will return sleep setting results for multiple pc's on a network? I know we can manually check each PC but was wondering if there was a faster and easier way.
Hi and Welcome to TSF!
Are people changing them?
How would you want to distribute the patch?
You can do so with a simple batch program.
A big hello to everyone. This is my second time coming here, albeit with a different problem, and one that is a lot more annoying!
A week or so ago i starting getting occasional redirects and popups to pages that start with "syndication.exoclick" whenever I browsed the Internet with Google Chrome. I cleaned it (deleted all browsing data, signed out of the browser and back on) and it was fine for a day or two. As of today, the problem has gotten much worse. I keep constant redirections to pages starting with "adfoc.us" - over half of the tabs I open are immediately taken over and redirected. Worst part is that it now works on Internet Explorer as well. It is also worth mentioning that I am not getting these redirects only on my desktop, but also on my Nexus tablet as well. The problem seems unconnected to my router, as today I've used my tablet on a completely different Wi-Fi half across town, while still getting the problem. I've ran TDSS cleaner, the Microsoft Security Essantials, Malwarebytes AntiMalware, which all reported 0 problems. I've also reinstalled Chrome, to no effect.
As for the redirects, they ranged from Aliexpress to random cam sites, but now the adfoc.us started showing up, it only displays the adfoc.us page detailing how the system works (with a really annoying voiceover too) and nothing else. It doesn't even allow me the option to press the "Back" arrow, seems like it literally closes a tab I wanted to open and opens a new one with adfoc.us on ... Read more
Here's the Attach.txt as well. I forgot to click the "Attach this File" button. >.>4 more replies
I've got an HTC One X, an ASUS Transformer and several Windows PCs that I use for business. Depending on my location I receive googletalk messages on any of those devices.
What I need is a software, like Trillian, that will save the chat history of my conversations online to enable me to access it from any device I choose. I don't want to check all devices if I wonder what a colleague wrote to me in the morning.
The problem with Trillian is, that it isn't optimized for the Transformer or any Pad in that regard at all (correct me if I am wrong). It forces me to turn the screen to "vertical mode" which isn't helpfull at all since the Transformer is in "horizontal mode", because of the attached keyboard all the time.
I would really appreciate your help and advice. To be clear: I am totally willing to pay money for such a software, but I don't even find one single alternative to Trillian.
Thanks in advance
I have a 20FB running Win 10 with a Logitech K810 Bluetooth keyboard that I've been using with a corded mouse without any problems. I recently purchased M557 Bluetooth mouse and now, intermittently, but consistently, my keyboard stokes are inaccurate, with multiple repeating letters and extra spaces. If I turn my mouse off, the keyboard again works fine. Disconnecting and reconnecting both devices did not solve this problem. The Lenovo System Update utlility indicates that the device driver is up to date. The Lenovo supplied device driver version is 18.1.1546.2762. Nonetheless, I was able to solve this problem by updating the device driver from Window?s Device Manager to Intel?s latest driver, version 19.0.1621.3340.More replies
This is so odd. I'm running Windows XP SP2 on Dual core INtel with 1 gb memory.
I've installed a front USB panel that has 4 ports in front and 2 more on the PCI card which it's attached to. (added on peripheral).
I can deal with the "this device can run faster if plugged into a 2.0 device" but what is really frustrating is that if I plug in 2 or more USB devices. At least one of them won't work.
This computer is in my family room and wirelessy networked to my other computer in another room. I use a Motorola USB device to connect for the purpose of printing stuff off the printer in the other room.
If I have too many USB devices plugged in - there doesn't seem to be enough power to allow the wireless connection - resulting in not being able to print.
This isn't the only issue. I have some software that requires the USB "key" in order to work. If I need to use that software using the "key" and then I need to print something from that particular software to the remote printer - I have to save it to my desktop firsti - then disconnect the "key" and then I can print.
Do I need a bigger PS? I have a 500W now. I thought that would be big enough. Perhaps the USB issue isn't related to that at all? Is there some way to regulate how much power is assigned to USB devices?
Since my computer is in a desk against a wall - it's very difficult to plug and unplug stuff into the rear slots. Hence the install... Read more
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When streaming Netflix, my computer is registering as a new device each time I play a movie. The Device ID is different when I check on all my registered devices (the only device that uses my account is my one computer). I have not changed any settings, reinstalled Windows, or made any drastic changes in the system. I do not use a router and am using Cox Communications as my ISP.
Does anyone know why this is happening? Does anyone have a solution?
For more detailed information, the original topic is posted here:
I was informed by the admin "Animal" to re-post in this forum.
Thank you for any help.
Have you contacted Netflix about this issue?1 more replies
Okay, so I moved my wireless router to a more central location in my house (I got low signal in my room) and since then I've been able to connect to the network but only with limited access. Trying to connect to a webpage results in the "DNS lookup failed" error message (Chrome). My brother's computer had had the same issue, and the PlayStation 3 has had connectivity issues also, however I have been able to use my phone with the WiFi without any issues.
I've tried unplugging/turning the router on and off to no effect. Using a different router does not change the situation either. When I try to diagnose the network connection, it says that it could not identify the problem. Any ideas?
Both computers run Windows 8
My phone is a Nokia Lumia 620 running WP8
The WiFi status window states that IPv4 and IPv6 have no internet access
My computer uses a Qualcomm Atheros AR5B125 wireless network adapter and says it is working correctly. The adapter is set to work with IPv4/6. IPv4 is set to obtain IP & DNS addresses automatically.
Any help is greatly appreciated. Thanks!
For a Windows PC ...
Please attach a screen shot of the Networks page (don't collapse the Radar, Connection or Signal History) of the Xirrus Wi-Fi Inspector. If your only email accounts are free (Hotmail, gmail, etc.) try this direct link. If you need help with a screen shot see TSG Posting a Screenshot. FWIW to take screen shots with Windows 8 or 7 or Vista I prefer to use the built-in Snipping Tool.
Identify your network if it is not obvious.
Also show ...
Open a (black) Command Prompt window:
Hold the Windows logo key and press r; in the Run box type cmd and click on OK.
Type the following command:
[Note that there is no space between the slash and ALL.]
Right click in the command window and choose Select All, then hit Enter.
Paste the results in a message here.
If necessary use a text file and removable media to copy the results to a computer with internet access.
I am having major issues at the moment and have been trying to fix this for the past couple of months.
my primary laptop a Tobisha was playing up a while ago when I plugged my apple iphone into it and was transferring photo's, it was taking ages to respond and then came up with error corrupt image.
I tried again and it said the file was already there and if i would like to replace it? I saw the file size and it was 100 X bigger than all the others.
I got a little concerned and downloaded malwarebites to scan my computer (I had avg already installed and nortorns).
as time went on and a little bit of research online and fiddling about, the virus was not budging and had locked me out of admin rights.
I tried take ownership, downloading various programs to run and it kept overtaking the programs until i couldn't delete any files anymore.
I found an old laptop dell and tried to fix that one up (as that too had a virus)
I ran malwarebites on it and it removed somethings and i was able to get it going.
I was using an exeternal hard drive to back up my files from the tobisha and wanted to transfer them to the dell
when i noticed i lost admin rights on the dell also.
at this point too I was having strange things happen to my iphone, background app transfers and greyed out features with location services always on.
I tried deleting a heap of things on the dell after running some programs, it seems it now had the same thing as the other laptop.
I gave up trying to fix anythi... Read more
I have been using Netflix for a few months. What I have noticed is that I will reach my device activation limit (6 is the max, I believe) rather quickly--specifically, it will tell me I have reached it after streaming 6 shows/movies. Apparently, my computer is being registered as a new device every time I stream a new show/movie.
I am wondering why this is, and how it can be fixed. The only solution I have found is to deactivate every device I have registered with Netflix (which is just my one computer I use for streaming)--only then will it allow me to watch another show/movie. This is a hassle, and if this is the only way, then that is alright. What I am most interested in is the reason my computer could be registering as separate devices like this. I can think of a few possibilities:
-Computer is registering by a dynamic IP address set by the ISP (I do not use a router)
-Computer is registering as a new device by some other means
-Silverlight is somehow acting fishy (which this does not seem like a local problem like a program on my computer)
It must be noted that the device ID number listed on Netflix is different with each registration of a new device (even though it is the same device every time).
I am currently in Louisiana. I am using Cox Communications as an ISP. I do not use a router. I pay my own utilities (so this is not an aprt complex-specific problem as far as I can tell). This same issue occurred when streaming on a friend's Netflix account, so it is no... Read more
Should I re-post this in another forum that is more populated or that deals with problems like this?
Any help is welcomed.
So I'll try to keep this short.
I have a HP B209a-m that I have just gotten rid of and now am trying to remove all the software from my system. I've run revo and the issue still persists.
It gives me a device install path of ROOT\MULTIFUNCTION\xxx where xxx is a number. I have about 20-30 of these instances in my device manager and all have different install paths. I'd really like to remove these. I've run the HP L4 Uninstaller multiple times and still the issue is here.
I'd just really like to remove HP from my life.
Thanks for the help.
hello and welcome entfy mate try first backing up the registry Registry - Backup and Restore
See my pic AFTER you have backed up that registry but please do that the very first thing I usually make two copies in say the desktop and a document.
Let us know what if any HP software is there you can also check that entry named Printers.
I am using Windows XP,HomeEdition Version 2002, Service Pack 3.
AMD Athlon 64 X2 Dual Core Processor 3800+ 2.00 GHz, 3.43 GB of Ram
Firefox version 22.0.
We have noticed recently slow speed on our PC, Cell phones, laptop all connected to our wifi.
On this pc we have a search site called mysearchresults.com show up whenever we open a new tab. There also an ASK.com search bar and a search bar that has the icon of the mysearchresults.com site. Occasionally we get a small window pop up in the lower right corner ( where the taskbar is) that will play a video commercial.
This is also new, within that last few months these two things have started.
We notice alot more pop ups while on you tube, the video is jumpy while trying to scroll to the bottom of the page. When you go to click on a link it seems to move forcing you to click on a pop up.
I tested at speedtest.net and got a ping of 245, download speed of .19 and upload of .42. I've been noticing a lot of 404 issues (im not sure what you call it...it says it cannot find where I wanted to go and leaves me at a search bar that says its powered by Bing. (http://us.search.yahoo.com/404handler?src=toolbar&fr=slv502-tyc&type=&url=http%3A%2F%2Fwww.google.com%2F)
Mostly though we get...
Server not found
Firefox can't find the server at att.yahoo.com.
Check the address for typing errors such as
ww.example.com inst... Read more
One computer per topic please. Download Security Check from here or here and save it to your Desktop. Double-click SecurityCheck.exe Follow the onscreen instructions inside of the black box. A Notepad document should open automatically called checkup.txt; please post the contents of that document.NOTE 1. If one of your security applications (e.g., third-party firewall) requests permission to allow DIG.EXE access the Internet, allow it to do so.NOTE 2 SecurityCheck may produce some false warning(s), so leave the results reading to me. Please download Farbar Service Scanner (FSS) and run it on the computer with the issue.Make sure the following options are checked:
Internet ServicesWindows FirewallSystem RestoreSecurity Center/Action CenterWindows UpdateWindows DefenderOther ServicesPress "Scan".It will create a log (FSS.txt) in the same directory the tool is run.Please copy and paste the log to your reply. Please download MiniToolBox and run it.Checkmark following boxes:Report IE Proxy SettingsReport FF Proxy SettingsList content of HostsList IP configurationList Winsock EntriesList last 10 Event Viewer logList Installed ProgramsList Devices (do NOT change any settings here)List Users, Partitions and Memory sizeClick Go and post the result. Download Malwarebytes' Anti-Malware (aka MBAM): http://www.malwarebytes.org/products/malwarebytes_free to your desktop.* Double-click mbam-setup.exe and follow the prompts to install the program.* At the end, be sure a checkmark is pl... Read more
Sometimes I watch movies using HDMI output from my computer. When I connect the HDMI cable windows also discovers new sound device. I want to redirect some of outputs to the television so I can use its speakers.
For now, what I do is that I disable the internal sound card and system automatically uses HDMI then.
Thank you for any help
In many systems, when you plug an HDMI cable into the PC Windows will automatically set the HDMI as the Default audio playback device. If Windows is detecting a new device it suggests the Video drivers (usually where the HDMI audio is generated) may not be the correct driver.1 more replies
I'll try to explain this as simply as possible... Currently, I have speakers, headphones and the headphone microphone plugged in. I'd like to record my Skype conversations using stereo mix, but stereo mix only picks up what goes through my speakers and not what goes through my headset. I've tried tinkering with the settings and haven't been able to get stereo mix to record what goes through my headset instead of my speakers.
How do I get stereo mix to record headphone audio instead of speaker audio?
For the past few hours, I've also been trying to get Audacity to record both stereo mix and my microphone. From what I've read, Audacity can't record two inputs at the same time, so is there a way to combine stereo mix and my microphone?
I'm using the latest Realtek HD drivers, if that helps any.
Thanks for your time.
You might want to check out VAC(Virtual Audio Cable). It is not a "free" program, so depending on you needs, it might help. here is a link to info about it:Virtual Audio Cable - Wikipedia, the free encyclopedia
and here is a link to download VAC:
Virtual Audio Cable - CNET Download.com
I used it myself to share music I was listening to over video chats. The program can be used in a number of ways. I no longer use, since I currently have a laptop with Stereo Mix, and that meets my needs just fine. Hope this helps.
Ok im not quite sure where this question should be posted but i noticed the problem when i was playin games so this is where i chose...
Basically i've got different sounds coming from my speakers and my headphones. I have teamspeak coming through my headphones but my game sounds and other sounds from the speakers. I cant seem to find a way to make them all come from the headphones.
Using windows 7 32 bit
Thanks in advance
Have you tried changing any settings within the Windows Sound panel?
Start > Control Panel >Sound > Playback tab
Look for Speakers...right-click and Disable
Look for the Headphones....right-click and Set as Default Device
As part of my Back-up routine, I connect one of 3 external disks to my PC (via USB docking station) each week, and run a series of copy commands using RichCopy to copy a partition and make an extra copy of my data (primarily thousands and thousands of photos as well as music etc etc). The drive is then removed and stored elsewhere. Next week a different drive is used, and a different partition is copied etc
Two disks are SATA Maxtor 200Gb Seagate 160Gb, one is IDE Maxtor 250 - and currently, each time I connect any of the three drives, it appears as drive "I".
Ideally, I'd like to define each of the three drives with a unique drive letter say "X", "Y" or "Z". Then I could create batch files to automate the actual copying process.
I'm nervous that I do not copy the wrong data type to the wrong disk potentially wiping out for example, my photos. So I need to be confident that for example Disk X is always my photo drive, Y my audio drive & Z my "Other".
Is there a simple way to ensure this.
Hi Bonalymac, You could try,
right click computer,
click disc management,
assign a different letter to each drive as you plug them in.hope its of some help,patch 41
I am trying to download some software and it will not load. It says to substitute with my DVD-ROM drive letter, in the Run box. I have tried D, A and C and none of them will work. I can't figure out what is wrong... Please HELP!!!
More information please...Does your DVD or CD react when the CD is put in?
Or, is this a case of downloading from the internet?
I recently had to reinstall windows XP to get rid of spyware. When I restarted windows, I noticed that my drive letters were not right. For instance,my hard drive is letter (H) instead of C. My floppy drive is correct (A). How do I change the letter back to C for my hard drive?
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i have sata disk 640 Gb and ide disk 80 Gb...i have asus m2n.i will reinstall completly windos 7,...i want to have 2 partition on sata,and 1 partition on ide disk...I want my sata disk to have drive leters : :c and :d ,and my ide e:.....Now i have not god ,c: is system of windows,d: is of ide,and e : is assigned to second partition of sata.....
Hi, and welcome to the forums,,!!
Right-click computer > manage > diskmanagement > locate the drive then right-click again > follow options to driveletter > change the letter... Hope this helps.
Origionally, i had two hdds. an 80 gig ata (c:) and a 120 gig sata (d:)
I added an 80 gig sata drive (H:) and used Ghost to copy C: to H:, did a repair install, and removed C:. Now, i have a hard time getting most programs to install, because they all assume windows is on drive C:. How can i change H: to C:, and would i want to?
Have a read of this thread that I posted to another forum member the other day with a similar problem......................
Hope this helps solve yours......post back and let us know.
I want the next know: How do you change the drive letters.?
Why do I want know this? Since 27 may 2011 use I Windows7 Home Premium, Windows 7 had called the partitions on my external hd. F and E .
Yesterday plugged I in another usb device and Windows7 changed the stations letters in J and I, I want change this in F and E .
I did take a look in the configuration screen and took a look in device manager and I didn't seen how I could change this.
I am not familiar with the new os, but you are, so I thought, I ask a question about this.
Now do I hope, that you can tell me how I fix that.
Thank you for your time.
Disk management (START - RUN - diskmgmt.msc)4 more replies
I'm using Windows XP home SP2 on a notebook.
When I right click over my CD drive icon on the taskbar then select properties it always defaults to the shortcut tab which shows the Target is F, but when I try to click the General tab I get this message:- The name specified in the Target Box is not valid .........
This happens to both the internal CD (F) and an External CD (E) connected by USB.
I've checked the manage discs in My Computer and it shows the correct letters.
Can anyone help
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Okay guys, I jst bough an HP a340n 2.6GHZ P4 with a multi-car reader. Here is the problem. I have a databse which i connect through a short cut to a mapped drive. To make a long story short I need to have a mapped drive with the letter G:. Problem is that the card reader takes up G: H: I: and J: for each type of reader. Now I can use G: for what I need to if I go to device manager and uninstall that particular card reader (which I don't use it that often anyway because I don't have that kind of card) and then I can use the drive letter G: for whatever I want. But, whenever I log off and log back on my mapped drive is disconnected because the letter G: is then taken up by the card reader again. How can I rectify this again.
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I have two 200 GB drives "C" and "D" each with fully updated XPpro/SP2
1. Opening "C" in 'My Computer' the secondary drive is correctly identified as "D" with DVD at "E" and CD at "F"
2. However opening my secondary drive in 'My Computer" is is identified as "F"
with primary drive still at "C" with CD at "G" and DVD at "E"
On the secondary drive I have tried bith in "disk management" and in 'Command/Diskpart" to change "F" to the un-assigned letter "D" but get message: Diskpart cannot re-assign the above letter on a system, boot or page file volume.
I have no idea why one setup is correct and the other not and would welcome views as to why this has happened and what to do about it?
The reason is that D is in use by drive C, as drive C takes precedence. But the question is why do you have windows installed on both drives?1 more replies
When I had win 7 installed for me I had some of the drive letters changed. I cant remember which but I think it was the DVD drives. I have 3 hard drives and 3 cd rom and dvd drives. I am desperate to change back to the letters Win 7 auto assigned. Can anyone tell me if this is possible as I don't know what they were originally. I need to do this because I bought Acronis True Image and recovery cannot auto find find backup files. It asks me to change locations and I am sure I would precipitate a disaster!! As a 76 year old ignoramus I am depending on your help otherwise I have wasted a wad of cash on a program I cannot use. Ta.
Welcome to Seven Forums semaj. You can certainly change drive letters:
You may have to change some letters to a higher letter to free up that letter for another drive. For instance. If you currently have C:, D:, E:, F:. G:, H:. You may have to change H: temporarily to M:, so you can change E: to H:, and then use E: for another drive, etc. Hope that made sense. Also, make sure any letters you chose aren't used by USB devices, if so, just pick another letter until you get everything renamed. A Guy
My hard drive has 4 partitions, 3 with a different XP operating systems on, and the 4th I use for backups. When I boot to partition 1 ©, The drive letters for the 4 partitions are C - D - G - H. When I boot to partition 2 (D), The drive letters change to C - D - E - F. I was wondering if there were any settings that could prevent the drive letters from being changed this way.
It has to do with what type of partitions they are I think (eg a primary partition as opposed to logical partitions inside an extended one).Reading this may help: http://www.pcguide.com/ref/hdd/file/part.htmIn the left pane, click on the last link "Drive Letter Assignment and Choosing Primary vs Logical Partitions".9 more replies
in my computer my floppy is drive a,nothing as drive b,my bootable hdd as c,my cd rom as drive d and my secondary hdd as drive e is there any way i can change this as i want secondary hdd as d and my cd rom drive as e.i am running windows xp pro sp2 and i only know how to change drive letters i win 95/98/ME
Mycomputers -> Rt click -> manage -> disk management ->
select the drive -> rt click -> change the drive letter -> select the letter -> click ok
I just installed Windows XP on a brand new hard drive and Windows Explorer shows the hard drive as the E drive and a Zip drive as the C drive. A drive is the floppy and D drive is the CD-RW.
Questions: Is this a problem and how do I correct it?
I've installed nothing else, so reinstalling XP is no big deal. And I checked in the BIOS it it shows the HD as the primary boot master and the CD-RW as the secondary boot master. I have no drives other than the aforementioned.
Any advice will be appreciated.
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As the title says, do we still need drive letters to "label" our storage?
In my humble opinion, drive letters are the legacy DOS left us that needed to be leave and let go, it belongs in the past. At this time of age, when people can have many disks that stores multi gigabytes of data, drive letters are liability... What if you (like me) have too many disks, plus external storage(s), plus some SAN/NAS volumes that needs to be attached... Giving those volumes drive letters will backfire when you ran out of letters (1), or you forgot that you statically bind a folder to your iTunes Database (example of some app that statically bind to a folder within a partition), and the volume ran out of free space(2). Expanding the volume is out of the question because the free space is already taken by the next partition...
Please share your opinion...
Wow.. how much space do you need? lol.
I currently have 4.25Tb of hard drive space + backup of the same. I am about 800Gb off filling them all up. The reason I use so much is that I use my main pc as a media centre, currently containing 1000's of episodes of various television series, documentaries, music vids and hundreds of movies. So at present I have used 5 drive letters + 2 more for a dvd-rw drive and a virtual drive. This leaves me with just under 20 more drive letters to use in the future. I really can't see me using all these even with all my 'greed' in data usage! Unless I have ALL my media in HD, then of course I would use a lot more storage space.
To be honest, the answer (for now) is to make sure that you have larger hard drive capacities. I'm certainly open to the idea of not having drive letters, as long as I know which files are on what hard drives.