I recently purchased a brand new case
I transferred my current computer guts to this new case from the old one.
Corasair 750w CMPSU
Asus p5N72-T Premim
500GB WD SATA HD
Corsair 240 pinn 1066 x2 Dominator
Intel Core 2 Duo Wolfdale E7600
After three hours of carefully taking out the parts from the old case and placing them into the new one, I try to boot. Everything turns on with the exception of the fan on the GTX280 card. Iíve had problems in the past with the card booting up so I kept trying to boot up over and over trying to see where the problem was from. The problem was not in the video card, I was able to make the fan start a few times, and for good measure also tested with a working Geforce 8600 GTX which had no trouble.
The main problem is I have yet to make the computer POST. After day two of trying to make the computer work through booting attempts with combinations of with bare bones parts, the power supply begins to make a electrical crackling as if there was sparks flying around. This power supply is now completely dead, each time it booted the crackling got worse until it died. I have no idea why this recently purchased quality power supply started doing that.
Iíve since put in another 680W power supply that works well and this successfully turns on all the components but still has the same exact problem, the computer wont post.
I have tried 3 different sets of working RAM, all compatible.
I have tried two different power supplies (both working, one now dead from this)
The motherboard has been reseated multiple times
I have used multiple working video cards
No previous problems with any part
Unable to reset CMOS, does not have jumper
Do not have floppy drive
Any suggestions are appreciated, this problem is beyond my knowledge.
The power supply failure might have taken out the board.Have you tried a out of case test? Use only 1 stick of ram> video hooked up to monitor> cpu & heatsink> keyboard & mouse>power supply connections secure. Short the power pins to start to see if you get a display.3 more replies
Well im going in to get a pc built for me in a few days time but the problem is this. The cases they have in there look really old fashioned! (bad spelling) and just plane yukky! Soo i have decided to buy my own case off of e-bay. So my questions are this
1: Are all the cases the same? please say they are! other wise im screwed and damned to live my hole life with a really horrible tower ..
2: THis is a really stuiped question but please..dont laugh.. if i went to dell.com and brought a computer..then i went to a smallish shop in town (which are very cheap) Do you think that the little shop would be cheaper? Just the computer i want off of dell is like £1,800. yet im only aming to pay £1,500 - £1,600. (with monitor) This would be for a good gaming computer. So which is it?
3: is it possible to get a great gaming computer for £1,500?
thanks for any help you can give - from Adam-knox
1. No. Well not technically speaking. But the one used in the majority of motherboards today (I mean a large majority) is the ATX form factor. If you could prvide the mobo. name and model I (or someone) can tell you for sure. But its almost definitly an ATX.
2.Normally local shops cant compete with big retailers. I have found you will be paying more for the same "specs." at a local shop But take into acount that most PC shops use higher quality parts. ANd not to mention you have someone to actually talk to, instad of a phone number.
3. You bet. If you would like us to help you pick out parts, just say the word, its not as hrad as you think, and will save a lot of money.
Hope this helps
BTW-excuse any bad spelling, its late and i just got off work
Ok, so I want to get a good mid to high range card. I have a slim/low profile case.
Is it possible for me to move my mATX mobo to a regular midtower atx case? This is the case I want:
Newegg.com - COOLER MASTER Storm Sniper SGC-6000-KKN1-GP Black ABS Bezel, SECC Body ATX Mid Tower Computer Case - Computer Cases
and if I wanted to put a good psu in would it be fine? like a 600 watt. Would that be too much for my mobo? or could i put more case fans in? thanks. and if you dont mind, please dont suggest building a whole new computer. before i actually do that im gonna stick with this one until i get my new parts.
anyone?11 more replies
I just recently transfered my whole computer into a new case, after hooking everything up (including two new led fans), the computer ran for about 5-10 minutes and then froze with no apps running. I rechecked my connections and they were in the right spot but it did it again. I'm thinking that the 350w PSU I have just isn't cutting it, but I can't be sure. If anyone could help I'd really appreciate it.
350 watts is too weak for today's systems, however, this would cause other errors such as random shutdowns, spontaneous reboots, and frequent blue screens of death, not system freezes.
first thing you should do is remove your RAM chips and blow out any dust from the RAM slots using compressed air, then carefully reseat the RAM chips, see if this fixes it.
when you transferred your system, did you clean your components?
I am really hoping someone else has already had this problem and has an easy fix!
We just bought a new Antech Nine Hundred case today and carefully and painstakingly transferred everything from our old home-built (which was only built this year - not really OLD). After carefully checking and rechecking everything, we hit the power button and get no post sound and no video. Everything appears to power up, all fans come on and everything seems to have power though we get no post beeps at all and no video. The video card fans come on, so I am sure it has power and we tried moving it to another slot with no luck. We removed non-essentials as well, but since everything worked this morning I don't think there is actually a defective part here.
The video card was replaced just 2 weeks ago, and everything worked perfectly this morning before transferring to the new case. We have checked and rechecked cables and pins and cannot figure this out.
We are running a 500W power supply, and an evga 9600 GT video card on a Gigabyte S-Series mobo.
I would pull everything out of the case. Do an out of case build to make sure you have not damaged something. Once you are sure the system posts outside of the case, then install the mb, pw supply, and video card only.
Again check to see that it posts. If it does, then shutdown and connect/install parts one at a time. Checking post each time.
I am assuming you marked the places to install standoffs and checked the board fit before installing.
Ok, I'm in the process of updating my MOBO and Processor. I have bought a new powersupply to accompany it. I've got everything hooked up. Push the power button on the case, now all of a sudden:
- the LED light on the front of the case is 'Red' (use to be green).
-Along with this, the 2 cd drives dont power up, (no lights, tray-open buttons dont work).
-The HD starts to spin
- Heatsink for the powersupply turns on
Now, I have found that if I unplug the IDE cable from the MOBO (which is connecting the 2 cd drives, because the HD is SATA) the 2 cd drives are now working. I am able to open the treys.
-But, computer still doesnt get to the POST
-I have taken the processor out and tested, same thing
-I have taken the MOBO out of the case, same thing.
-I have taken the RAM out of the MOBO, same thing
So, I thought it was the MOBO. Called the place I bought it from, they sent me a brand new one. got everything hooked up, same thing.
It is a GEFORCE 6100-M9 MOBO, accompanied with a AMD 64 3700+.
Has anyone had this problem before? If so, I would really like some insight on what I could try next.
Hello and welcome to techspot.
Did you use the riser pins under the motherboard to separate it from your case?
Please list your parts in detail. Are you using the integrated graphics or a graphics card? What are the details of the ram you are using? What power supply do you have (watts and how many amps on the +12v rail).
More details please.
I get a failure to post when I switch my computer on (I put it together in December 2004, I
have not added anything in the last couple of months or so, although sometimes the computer
would shut down by itself at night for reasons I could not figure out). No beeps (as far as I
can remember the computer beeped once when it used to start correctly), the MB light comes
on,the fans come on and in the beginning the HDD light just came on and stayed on. I started by
taking off all the pci boards. I reset the CMOS by unplugging the computer, taking the battery
out waiting for 15-20 secs, resetting using the jumpers and putting the jumper back in the
original position. I even tried booting without hard drive and optical drives and floppy drive.
As a last ditch I took out everything except cpu and tried to boot. I have tried to push down
on the power connectors and everything I could imagine no luck, no beeps. I strongly suspect
its the Motherboard. It could also be the memory or the PSU or the CPU. I don't have spares of
either. I have tried the graphics card in another computer and that seems to work. Here is my
-Aus P5P800 865PE with AMI bios
-Coolmax True power 2.0 550 Watts power supply
- P4/3.2 Ghz 800MHz LGA775
-Mushkin pc3200 DDRAM - 3-3-3-8 timing (not a verified vendor by Asus but it has worked fine
for close to two years)
-3-hard drives - 2 PATA and 1 SATA and 2 Optical Drives and floppy drive
-Radeon 9000PRo graphics... Read more
8 more replies
I have a Dell Optiplex GX270. When I press the power button, the power button light turns amber, I hear some fans spinning, and the CD drive spinning. However, it never gets to the boot screen (or any screen). If I open the case and press the power button, however, the power button turns green and the computer works fine (loads all the way up and functions like normal). If I close the case after it has started, it continues to run fine. I'm guessing / hoping it's not the mother board or power supply that has directly gone bad... but maybe there is a connection or something? that changes from when it's closed to when it's open. I've heard of something like... the motherboard is shorting out by touching the case... but I'm not really sure where to look for that / how. Any suggestions would be appreciated! Thanks!
15 more replies
In the last 8 hours I've among other things, upgraded my computer case and tossed in a few more fans. The only difference in hardware configuration is that I removed a crappy PCI modem, new heatsink/fan/grease, PSU (350W Antech SmartBlue), switched the normal order of cards in PCI slots and altered the way I had my HD's n optical drives chained.
In my original configuration it was :
moboIDE2--->HD2 5400 rpm (slave)---->DVD burner(Master)
moboIDE1--->CD-Rom (slave)--->HD1 7200rpm (master with c: on it)
Never had any problems with it previously. DMA was enabled and I burnt DVD's in the proper amount of time and it never ever crashed when I opened up a folder with an ton of jpgs.
So today just due to the new case and convience reasons, I changed the config to :
moboIDE2--->CD-Rom (slave)--->DVD burner (master)
moboIDE1--->HD2 (slave)--->HD1 (master)
It booted up fine...no conflicts, everything looking great... Then I decided to surf a bit and see if the stability holds up. Well it was incredibly sluggish. In both IE and Firebird at first.
Thought it might have been my connection (but I know it wasn't) and decided to open up a folder with a ton of pictures and toss it on thumbnail view. That made the fan crank up(temp sensitive on processor) and hard lock.
I've tried unplugging certain things n rebooting but the only thing that I believe is wrong is that the small fan (i think its on the n bridge) is toast. It looks as if it... Read more
9 more replies
Hi, I have a problem with my pc. When I start it, it takes ~30 sec until post/bios, it just shows a black screen, after 30 sec I can hear the beep and everything runs fine. When I noticed that I decided to check if all the cables are ok and if everything inside the case is fine. But when I tried to touch the back of the case I got electricity. I switched off the computer so I can open the case but I still couldnt touch it, so I unplugged it, switched off the PSU, and checked the insides. Everything seemed to be fine, rams, video cards all plugged properly. What do you think is the problem? Unfortunately I can't find another power supply to test it. Fortunately the system is on warranty so probably I'll solve it soon. I just want to hear your opinions. Sorry for my english
Welcome to Tech Support Guy.
Fortunately the system is on warrantyClick to expand...
Just check that this is the case.
You might be fortunate, but most warranties are declared invalid if you tamper with things, and opening the case to check every individual component and connection almost certainly crosses that limit.
If so, my advice is that you do absolutely nothing to the machine until you take it in.
Ok, so I bought an Alienware x51 back in 2013 with these specs:i7 3770 3.4GhzGTX 66016gb ddr3 ram1Tb HDD (917gb actual)Optical drive (don't know much about this one)Mobo: Manufacturer: Alienware, Product: 06G6JW, Version: A01Here's the plan:I am planning on taking the components and moving them to a new case, give em a new psu, possibly upgrading the gpu. Then (later down the road), when I have enough dough Ill replace the components apart from the case itself. Also, my current budget for this upgrade/transplant is about $300caThe parts I have in mind: (Note: I am in Canada, and I'm a pc hardware newb )New case: NZXT Source 530 ( http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E1681... )New cpu cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 Plus ( http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E1683... )New psu: CORSAIR CX-M series CX450 450W Semi Modular PSU ( http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E1681... )Case Fans: Cooler Master Sleeve Bearing 120mm (4 pack) ( http://www.newegg.ca/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E1683... )The questions:1 - Are these good choices? I like the case, but I am unsure of the quality of the PSU. Reviews for the other items shown were mostly positive.2 - What is the highest level of GPU that would function with this Mobo that is worth getting?3 - Are there any major issues with this plan?4 - I'm thinking of adding a second hdd or ssd, I can do this at a lat... Read more
Best to post this in the Alienware Owners Club Forum, here:http://en.community.dell.com/owners-club/alienware/
Hey guys i'm having alot of confusion on my External 3.5 Sata Samsung 500GB HDD.
The problem is, that when i plug it in through usb it sees it, but as soon as i start working or copying something from it, or copy to it, and it shows that it copies, half way it stops, says its still copying but its not, how i know the computer completely frezzes, and when i turn it off its all fine.
Though when i hooked up my external hdd to a sata cable to my pc its completely fine, is some reason for this? is there like a driver to make it work or something, i've come across this problem with many computers even my own laptop ,
Please need help.
No driver required. I'm guessing there's an issue with the external case, you might consider returning it and picking a different brand.
hi all ,
i have a desktop
i changed my broken case to a new case like
i removed the HDD and the motherboard and the CD-rom ..etc and installed them to a new case
but when i press the switch button it works normally , and the screen display normally and there are no beeps , but after like 20 second my computer turns off automatically ! ,
what may cause this issue ?
could be overheating CPU. Did you apply fresh Thermal paste to the HSF after reinstalling the motherboard? Is it tight and secure? Did you blow out all the dirt, dust and debris from the fans' fins?
I just moved to a new case with a larger PSU (300 was old, 350 is new).
When I powered on the comp, I don't even get a POST. As far as I know, everything is plugged into the correct spot. I used to mobo manual for all the correct headers and I can see the power on LED illuminated. The HDD LED illuminates briefly too. The reset switch works, as well as the power switch (obviously). The CPU fan and Northbridge fan is turning. I did discharge the CMOS memory too using the jumper, but that didn't solve my problem. Any ideas? Could something have gone wrong when I moved all the components? Actually, obviously something did go wrong, but anybody have any ideas?
Athlon XP 2100
ABIT KR7A mobo
512 266DDR Mem
40 GB Maxtor HD
couple CD drives
thx for any help
Disconnect everything except the cpu, fans, memory, and video card with monitor and see if it will post. If not I would start by checking the standoffs to make sure one is not shorting the motherboard to ground. To do this you could even take the board loose and put it on a piece of cardboard to insulate it and see if it will post.
I'm completely lost no hardware was changed at all the dam this wont post or give me beep codes it just sits there with a blank screen
This is what I?m running
Mobo: p5n32-sli Deluxe
cpu: pent d 3.2
psu:550 watt sli
two sticks of 1gb ddr2
two gforce 6800 Xtream 256 in sli mode
donno if you need any other info seeing as it wont post
I'm completely lost I didn?t damage any parts wile transplanting the system
By not posting the monitor just sits there in sleep mode and nothing happens any beep codes no nothing
Probably just missed a PSU connection somewhere.
Do you have two connections to your motherboard? Both the 24pin and the 12vATX connector?
Did you connect your graphics cards to the PSU (assuming they need a PSU connection, some don't)?
Did you use the riser pins to separate your motherboard from the case?
Take out the ram and expansion cards and re-seat them to be sure. In fact, do this with all your connections.
Due to age limited facilities I regularly post CAPS.. marvel at features now available for umpteen retro changes and languages but not it seems merely correction of this? so I understand.. If so? shows how limited technology actually is! AND who would not want updates by email?
On the "Age" thing, don't even go there we have members in their 90's who get shot down in flames for calling the "Age" Card. I'm just 71 and, more than likely, there's a 17 year old reading this.
Unfortunately, in this Forum, once you've hit the "Post" button. That's what you've get, unless you grovel to FE and he makes the change with his Silver Mouse. But don't press your luck, he might weaken the once, but is unlikely to weaken a second time!
The technology is available but using it makes for sloppy composition and allows people to Post one thing and then change it, after others have replied, which might make them look stupid, which few of us admit too. Amateur - Yes, Enthusiasts - Yes, but Stupid - No. Unless you think that trying to help some damn-fool whose just done something unfortunate, is stupid.
I recently purchased a WD Passport external Harddrive, and have attempted to use it with transferring files from a laptop running Windows 7 32-bit to a desktop running Windows 7 64-bit. Windows Easy Transfer won't allow me to do this, giving me the error msg: "Windows Easy transfer can't transfer files from a 64-bit computer to a 32-bit computer"
My question is...Is there any way around this OS conflict? (So that I can still use my external HD to transfer files between computers)
If it's just document, pictures, music, etc. You could just use the drag and drop method and move them to the second computer like that.4 more replies
My old computer is running windows xp , I have purchased a new computer and bought an easy transfer cable usb port connection , I downloaded the program as specified , my new computer is a hp running windows vista the two diffent prots will see each other but when i go to transfer from my old computer to my new computer before i can select anything a window pops up saying migration fAILED when i click the ok button on that window it closes out the program.
I gave my old Athlon XP 2800 to my mom. I built it myself and it has an Epox 8RDA+ motherboard.
A week ago she said when she turned it on it beeped and nothing came on the screen. I had my dad look at it and he said the CPU fan wasn't running. This was the fourth or fifth time we had turned it on to troubleshoot it (I live 500 miltes away) so I'm not sure if it stopped running when he was messing with things, or if it hadn't been running the whole time.
Anyway, they sent it to me and I've tried troubleshooting it to no avail. When I first turned it on it got to the bootup screen before freezing. At this point I noticed the CPU speed was listed as 1100 Mhz. Now when I turn it on it doesn't show anything on the screen (what would cause this, a heat issue?)
First I was getting a C1 error, so I tried switching out and trying to each memory stick individually. No luck. Eventually I ended up with a wide array of post codes, including:
C1: Detect memory
29: Program CPU internal MTRR, Initialize the APIC, Program early chipset, Measure CPU speed, Invoke video bios
Sometimes it would boot up to 29 and then go back down to 26
It seems 95% certain to me that either the CPU or motherboard (or PSU?) has gone bad. Is this correct? If so, how can I find out which one it is so I don't buy the wrong thing? Thanks a lot.
well.. the best way is to try each single part in a different system to see if they do work or not...
i always use the thought that Electronical Stuff does WORK or NOT... they dont "kinda work"...
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Looking for suggestions for a cheap case (cheaper the better).
front and back 120mm fan spots (doesn't need to come with fan)
at least 5x 5.25" external bays
at least 1x 3.5" external bay
Fits ATX spec
On a budget, so the cheaper the better. I'm just replacing the case, so it doesn't need to have anything in it (PSU, fans, etc), but must be able to put them there obviously. I don't have brand preferences. Name as many as you can, since it might be a problem getting them where I am...
I found this as the cheapest with all the features you want, except it has an 80mm front fan and a 120mm rear fan. If you really need that 120mm front fan, this has it for about $7 more.
I want to run a computer out of a plastic bin. If I lay the MoBo and powersupply on the bottom, then duct tape all of the peripherals to the side... will it run? Would it do better out of a cardboard box?
It should work. Depending on the type of plastic you may have static electricity so be careful. It would probably run equally as well in a cardboard box. Honestly though, why not just buy an inexpensive case? Even the cheapest case would be better than a plastic bin or a cardboard box.
I have the following components in my PC:
GT 520 gpu
Intel i5 661 CPU
Gigabyte H55m-D2H motherboard (this is a small one, I believe it's micro ATX)
Two sticks of 4GB of RAM
ESI Juli@ audio card
I'm gonna stick with this build for a while (in fact, I don't see myself upgrading anytime soon - it runs great).
My case is big and makes a lot of noise (the fan is old...). I need a new one, and I wonder what compact cases are available for my setup. As you can see above, I do not use a gaming GPU, so I can probably make do with a thin case. The audio card isn't exactly tiny, though.
I'd appreciate any recommendations!
This would be my pick, Excellent case IMO
I am looking at now changing my computer case, preferably to either a standard ATX desktop or a HTPC Media Centre Case, however I have a slight problem in the fact that I have a Xigmatek hdt-s1283 CPU cooler, which stands rather proud at about 20cm or so.... what I was wondering is if any of you techspot frequenters know of any desktop style cases that would cater for my cooler, or if as far as it goes I am fighting a loosing battle?
The Cooler Master Elite RC-330 is a decent, inexpensive case that will easily have room for that cooler.
Hey everyone! It's jsut a quick post, but I recently finished a brand new computer build, but I am worried my case doesn't supply enough cooling, but also don't like the nosie it produces during gaming, so I am wondering if anyone knows of any good cases under £50/$60. I have looked at the powercool dominator and am wondering if it will be enough (http://www.amazon.co.uk/Powercool-D...9?s=computers&ie=UTF8&qid=1362519059&sr=1-109).
My build is as follows:
- AMD 8350 CPU with stock heat sink/fan
- Gigabyte 7950 triple fan graphics card
- 16GB RAM
- SSD & Hard Drive (not performance, but more energy saving)
- CIT basic case modded with an additional fan on the side
- ASUS M5A99X Motherboard
- 880w PSU
Thank you for any advice! It will need to have high cooling abilities, but also quite quiet!
- Noise from case is 95% the fault of the fans. More expensive cases provide quieter fans, but you're paying a lot more to start with anyway. Plus, you'll have to provide your own additional fans in most cases (pun not intended) anyway.
- PSU fan could be loud..?
- Cooling performance is a combination of how neat your build is (cables etc), the amount of components, the type of cooling on your devices, fans used, and airflow provided by case. This is a lot of variables, so it can be hard.
- The case you linked is a budget case. Don't expect miracles.
- My suggestion - stick with what you have, tweak the fan speeds a bit.
Please tell me if I waste you peoples time. Im a fan of building computer cases.
Now I was wondering what you people would think of a cylindric case? You know, that look like a bin (or a very large coffee tin) or something. Then you put the mobo near the bottom but not too close to it, put air intakes near it and one BIG extractor fan on top of the case. No corners for heat to gather
Posted via Mobile Device
For home-made... if you know how to work with tools, metal, plastics, etc...
You could make one... doesn't mean it'll work any better at cooling.
There are round computers out there.
I recently changed my computer case and after some struggles successfully moved all the hardware from my old case to the new one. It's a P4-1.7, DVD, CD, Nvidia GeForce FX 5600, Sound Blaster Audigy 2. The thing is, when I power the computer up I get no picture on my screen, so I'm wondering if it just has to do with the screen or the computer is just powering up and not actually turning on. Could someone please help me, I think it might have to do with how I connected the wiring to do with the hard drive, CD, and DVD.
Disconnect everything except the processor, video card, memory, and floppy. Try and boot it and see if it posts with video. If it does just start adding one device at a time back
I have a computer case where the on/off switch doesn't work when plugged into the motherboard. The computer is fine, I can jump the board but I need to resolve the issue with the on/off switch. it's just a PII case, no real thrills. The pins to the motherboard consist of (2) wires to the on/off switch, but the pin is (3) prong with a dummy in the middle. If you have any suggestions or need more info I'm online and watching? Thanks
If you have the right tools you can sometimes get the pins to release from the connector and move them next to each other. If you can't get that to work you could use an exacto knife ( or sharp raser blade) and split the connector down the dummy pin. Then connect each pin separately to the motherboard connector.
I have a A7N8XE-Deluxe Mobo, and I would like to get a new case for it with more fans and better airflow since I overclocked the CPU in it. I have found several ATX cases, but the back doesn't match what mine does currently. How do I get the right case with access to all the ports in the back, like my four USB and two Ethernet ports. The cases I have looked at don't have spaces for those. Do I just rip out the whole back part of the case or is there a way to find the case I need that will provide access to all my ports on the back? Thanks for help in advance.
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Hello everyone, I'm looking to buy a new computer case tomorrow for my PC because I'm getting worried by all the clutter. Everything is too close for comfort. Lol. Now I've heard that the most "scary", or worrisome, thing is taking out the mobo itself because of the static and all. Um, I'm in need of some Windows 7 Jedi guidance from you guys. Tell me what you guys need so I can post my specs so you can help me out further. Thanks.
If you are worried about the static when you buy/order your new case pick up a 2-5 dollar static wristband. they connect to your wrist then ground to the pc5 more replies
hi guys I have a problem with another Computer case . The monitor hp type ( W2072a ) and the computer case type ( hp pro 3330 MT ) . The problem is message appear to me like this ( no DVI signal & no VGA signal ) . every time when i tried to open my computer i show this message .One from your comunity say to me i should to discharge the electrical charges from the computer . and I thanks him a lot about this informationbut i have another computer case the same issue won't to resolveThis computer case i opened last week and it's work successfully but this days i don't know what's the problem . maybe some dust won't to remove . this is why i want to ask your comunity to get fast solution . and this why i prefer this site . to get fast information without i lost my time searching .So please help me . I appreciate your efforts to help and i'm one of our fans RegardsMore replies
I am about to build a new computer using an Asus motherboard appr 10 x 12 inches.
Since I am reluctant to install the motherboard in a vertical position I wonder if
there are cases into which I could install my motherboard horizontally.
So far I found none.
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My current computer runs the xp operating system and am using quickbooks 2007 on it. I now need to transfer my quickbooks data from this xp operating system to a new computer running vista with quickbooks 2007. Can this be done and if so how do I do it?
Walkthrough for creating Backup for Quicken
Manually backup to external source (cd/dvd/thumbdrive, etc.), re-install Quickbooks in Vista, and then restore backup files.
I've been having trouble with a malware of some sort (infomoneyserv or something like that) for several months now. Each time I think it's gone, it just comes back again and I figure it out when I go to reopen Firefox and get the restore error message and see 5 windows (that weren't open when I closed FF, at least not visible to me) with Infomoneyserv/blank or something of the sort in the address field. When I look in the history of the FF, there are LOTS of sites I haven't opened and haven't seen open.
I was due for a computer upgrade anyway, so bought one. My problem is I'm afraid to transfer any the files I want to save from this computer to the new one because nothing seems to be able to find the malware, trojan, virus, or whatever this is. I have run several anti adware programs, had Norton and ran that, uninstalled it and installed AVG antivirus and did a full scan with nothing found. It seems SO FAR only to have affected Firefox. IE does not seem to open things in the background, but at this moment there's a process called "SYSTEM" at 102,256K running, which doesn't seem right.
A new symptom that started today is that the MS Help and Support Center window keeps opening today with the message "Cannot display the page The page you are trying to view has an incorrect address and cannot be displayed. Please try another page. " I don't think I'm doing anything to trigger it.
What can I do to be... Read more
If your computer has been infected with malware and you need to back up data to transfer to another computer, you can back up all your important documents, personal data files, photos to a CD or DVD drive, not a flash drive or external hard drive as they may become compromised in the process. If you're going to use a cloud backup, use one that provides strong encryption, includes versioning and does not utilize a drive letter. If you're going to use an external hard drive, you should back up your personal files separately from programs and applications.The safest practice is not to backup any executable files (*.exe), screensavers (*.scr), (*.pdf), dynamic link library (*.dll), .ini, .bat, .com, .cmd, .msi, .pif, or script files (.php, .asp, .htm, .html, .xml) files because they may be infected by malware. Avoid backing up compressed files (.zip, .cab, .rar) that have executables inside them as some types of malware can penetrate compressed files and infect the .exe files within them. Other types of malware may even disguise itself by hiding the file extension or by adding double file extensions and/or space(s) in the file's name to hide the real extension as shown here (click Figure 1 to enlarge) so be sure you look closely at the full file name. If you cannot see the file extension, you may need to reconfigure Windows to show file name extensions.Why you should set your folder options to “show known file types”If your CD/DVD drive is unusable, another word of ca... Read more21 more replies
If a computer dies, what is Microsoft's policy about transferring W7 Full Retail license to another computer?
To be clear, this is about the full retail, off-the-store-shelf copy of Windows 7 purchased from an authorized dealer.
If it's a legitimate retail license you can transfer it all you like provided you don't use it on the previous computer anymore. OEM licenses are the ones that cannot be transferred to another system.
I have an Acer Aspire X1700 (Details
It's about 2 1/2 years old now. Came with Windows Vista, I upgraded it to Windows 7. Also has a newer video card than what came with it.
Anyway, The PSU fan is getting really obnoxious, it gets really loud (more or less like a lawn mower). I have taken the thing apart and have tried every suggestion given to quiet it down, which it does for a whole week or two. This is a small form factor PC, so to even take the power supply out you have to basically take out everything else just to get to it. I have looked for replacements but they are very obsolete. It's only 220W anyway, so i'd like something a little more powerful.
What I want to do is get a larger case that I can use the same hardware is (motherboard, drives, etc) and purchase a larger power supply for that case. 220W really limits the PC. The small case holds a lot of heat even with all fans cleaned and working properly. Even just taking a CD/DVD out that was in it is very hot. I want a case with better airflow than this one.
I really am not sure what kind of case to get that will meet my needs. I don't want anything really fancy. If possible I'd like to get it off newegg.com
Any suggestions would be great.
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Ok, now I have a new build that has All new parts, brand new case and everything, it works fine when it's partially screwwed in or outside the case, but once I put everything else in (pci devices) it doesn't turn on? What could be the problem?
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I would like to know if it is possible to configure outlook 2003 to automatically change lower case i to auto upper case I whilst typing my emails
It does it on my pc at work (could be cos its a better version of outlook)but I would love to know if I can have the same facility on my home pc
I'm using Vista and windows 7
Thanks in advance
Look at the Auto Correct options.
hello everyone. im looking into buying a new case for my computer. i currently have the stock case that came with my sony vaio pcv rx860. I was looking to get one of the more custom cases ive seen on the web. my main concerns are if the vaio components will be easily transferable to whichever custom case i end up choosing. as well , are there certain types of cases i need to stay away from or that i should look at specifically ? ive never changed the case on a computer before and the vaio i have has a very interesting way of opening up. is there a site or set of specifications i should follow before choosing my custom case ? thanks.
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I have a G9657MA-8EKRS2H motherboard that I would like to place in a case to build
a PC. I have several old computers & cases that I have collected in the past. For example could
I use a Dell 3000 case for this board? I have several simular Dell computers with celron processors
in them. Maybe I could salvage a case/power supply from them?
How do I choose a computer case for this mother board. What factors do I use to choose a
computer case? I guess I need to look at fan placement and venting. Form factors etc.
What do need to consider here?
Dell cases are proprietary ie they fit dell mb. Choosing a case is a VERY subjective endeavor; ie what I like may not be what you like. Here is a decent atx type case that will do the job for you.
This is a basic case without windows, lights, etc.
Here is a more high end case with lighted fans, etc.
My computer keeps shutting down when playing games or converting movies. I changed RAM (then putting old modules back because they weren't causing the problem), bought a new PSU and installed 2 aditional fans. It didn't work. So, my "diagnosis" is that dust is causing the problem. I need some advice about cleaning the case, removing the CPU heatsink and stuff like that.
Quote: Originally Posted by 4eyed
My computer keeps shutting down when playing games or converting movies. I changed RAM (then putting old modules back because they weren't causing the problem), bought a new PSU and installed 2 aditional fans. It didn't work. So, my "diagnosis" is that dust is causing the problem. I need some advice about cleaning the case, removing the CPU heatsink and stuff like that.
Dust can build up on the CPU fan and prevent proper cooling. This can be cleaned without removing the heat sink by using those cans of portable air blast. Take the case outside and being careful to not loosen any of the internal connections. blast the inside of the case and especially around the cpu with the air and that should help. Carpets/cats/dogs/people create dust and it tends to build up on the fins for the cpu cooler and prevent proper cooling.
Give this a shot and see if this helps.
PS: I do not recommend removing the heat sink as you will need heatsink grease when you reseat it. Also you take the chance of unplugging the cpu and they are dog to replace properly without bending pins which will ruin your whole day.
I read about this case by Zalman that is totally silent, but keeps the system cool.
It looks really neat to me, but it got me wondering what the best case out there is.
Of course, this is subjective, I know.
Criterion, in order of importance:
1. It keeps the system nice and cool
2. Itís quiet
3. It doesnít involve any water pumps or coolent
4. Itís nice-looking
Whatís your fave?
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Can both side covers ff a computer case be removed? I can remove one of the covers dead easy just by removing the two screw at the back. But When I come to remove the other side, i cant get it off with just removing the two back screws. The reason I want to get it off is beacuse there is a screw with the bottom pointing up into the case. I think the head of the screw is underneath the case cover i cant get off. Any help would be nice and I would be grateful. Thanx
Can you not see the screw that is underneath the cover through the side that you have already removed???
I have (unfortunately) an Acer Aspire X3910 desktop computer.
I have had it 6 months and it been in for repairs three times already.
One of the main problems I'm having with it is that the case is very small.
And the inside gets very hot Acer has hat to replace the computer once
and change the hard drive twice.
I was advised that I should change the case. However I don't know the
form factor that I need to buy. The information that Acer states is that its
a "Small Form Factor" but when I try to look for it I can't find that form
factor. Could someone tell me what form factors I can use and if possible
recommend a case.
Attached are images of the case I have and other information.
Any Help Will Be Appreciated
If the case is SFF, you don't want another one of those, since that is the root cause of your overheating. Any standard ATX case will fit your motherboard. However, your current PSU might not fit, so you will need a new PSU.
Your attachments provide no useful info. Provide a link that shows the inside of the computer.
So, I'm replacing my computer case (because my old one has no fans in it cept the one I mounted myself, and I believe i am having problems with overheating.)
So, any suggestions on a max $150 case that has decent airflow and cooling, and can fit a 9800 GTX+ card (I had problems with one case where the hard drive bay on the bottom of the front blocked it from going in cause its really long.)
If no suggestion on an actual case what are some good quality brands for cases with good cooling?
Specs on Comp:
ASUS M3A78-CM Mobo
Windows XP SP 3
Nvidia 9800 GTX +
AMD Althlon X2 Dual Core 6000+ 3.0 GHZ
4 GB of Ram (shows as 3.25)
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I have a Antec 300 u 3 case which needs cleaning inside and vents on side and front of the case.
Due to my disability I can not pick the case up and clean it.
Is there another way which I can clean the case with out opening it please
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Today I found I have a filter on the front of my case that sits in front of a 120mm fan ... and it was clogged with dust ! so I took it out and cleaned it, and now my temps are down by a lot !, I'm still finding out things about this Computer
Hi Ciara...Yeah...I have to clean my PC at least once a month as it does p/u quite a bit of dust. A few puffs of canned air into my PC\Laptops does wonders. I do the same to all my computers\Laptops. I think I'm going to give my hardware a cleaning...that's for the reminder...3 more replies
my friend was working today and the chick who house he was workin on got a new pc and gave him her old one so he had no use for it and gave it to me...i need to get in it to see how everything is and what not...
it says Planet systems on front case...i dunno how to open it...my last old pc u just unscrew 4 screws and case poped off....this 1 has many screws and there directly on back...i dunno if the holding the fan and stuff in place or what....any1 every dealt with one of those be4?
If it's an old PC, is it a vertical or horizontal position one? I've got an old horizontal one that you had to unscew 5 or 6 screws on the back and the top and sides came off very carefully. Just make sure you don't unscrew the Power Supply screws!!!!
And since it's an old one that you just want to tinker with, at least you don't have to worry about messing anything up too bad
We bought a refurbished computer for our son but when it arrived the computer case cooling fan was loose - had not been properly attached. My question is which way should the fan face when it's attached? There's a vent at the front of the case and mounting holes which it matches, but do I put it so the blades are convex or concave when mounting facing the front of computer? I was going to mount it with the convex side facing the front and my husband said it should be the opposite. He's no computer expert so I don't really trust his judgement after all the blunders he's commited with our computers. Hee hee.
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I wanted to buy a bigger case for my computer so I can upgrade my psu and get a full size graphics card will my motherboard fit inside any standard case?
It should...but we need the specific details of you Dell PC. If you would fill in your system specs in you profile area then we can get a better picture of your needs.8 more replies
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Okay, I have decided that my next computer is going to be a mini-ITX. Ever since PC makers decided to embed a LAN card and sound card onto a motherboard, and put in a graphics card slot into a wee 'lil motherboard, I don't really need anything bigger.
Anyway, I set out looking to BUY a mini-ITX case, but kinda came up short. They are really REALLY small... Most of them don't even use ATX spec components. Slim optical drives, slim heatsinks, flex-ATX PSU....
So I decided to build my own mini-ITX case. Gonna be an Aluminum frame, and aluminum/fibreglass cover and front. Fibreglass because its much easier to work with (IMO), and doesn't cost a bomb (like carbon fibre).
My list of spec:
1. Fit a mini-ITX board.
2. Fit a full, tower size CPU cooler. For overclocking, and quiet operation. (which is why I started the Venomous X thread)
3. Fit full ATX sized PSU. I've set the length of this PSU to 14cm, which is the length of my current 650W Antec PSU.
4. Fit my current graphics card (GTX 260). From my proposed layout and calculations, I should be able to fit something a few cms longer.
5. Fit 2x 3.5" HDDs.
6. Fit 1x 5.25" Optical drive.
7. Fit a 120mm exhaust fan or bigger.
I did some calculations, designed a layout by researching what works and what doesn't, and came up with this sized box (excluding the front bezel): 230x200x340mm.
That seems to be the smallest I can make it to fit everythin... Read more
I do not see any issues in size. In fact, I have seen a shuttle system with a Core i7, 3 HDD's, and an HD5970 in it:
If you are building an aluminum frame, I recommend using right angle pieces. They are very easy to work with, and very strong and light when you are done. Also, remember when you are making the cardboard replicas to leave space for the cables. In a cramped environment, they take up a lot more space than you might think.
Here is the worklog for an ITX HTPC I am building right now. It does not meet your specifications, but it does use a full ATX PSU, and it might be helpful for ideas, and for working with the aluminum.
I want to buy a new computer case, one with a clear side or the whole thing completely see through so i can put in LED fans and light up cables and so on. I don't know where to begin to look because i don't want something that all my computer things wont fit into. I was talking to my friend and he said i had to check my power supply or something for ATX or EATX or something like that and i don't feel like taking it apart because there is a fan exhaust tunnel in the way. I have a Dell Dimension 3000. Ive looked for specs about this on websites but cant seem to find any. Any info on my computer and or sites with such cases would be appreciated.
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I am looking for a new case and PSU for my current computer and my next computer after I upgrade
Current System Spec
6GB PC2 6400 800mhz (2x 2gb/2x 1gb)
Nvidia GTX 275 896mb
Asus Xonar DX soundcard
Windows 7 x64
Jeantech 1000W PSU
Operating system is on 2TB drive
++ two 1TB data drives, one 500GB drive (all sata drives)
I will be replacing the budget £30 case I currently use and the "Jeantech 1000W PSU".
After a lot of research the best candidates in my opinion:
Coolermaster CM 690 II Advanced Case (£75.33)
Corsair 750W HX modular PSU (£110.11)
My concerns are whether these will be suitable for use after I upgrade. I will be investing ~£1000 on my next CPU/motherboard/RAM/GPU and will be upgrading to whatever offers the best price/performance. I could upgrade now but have been advised to wait for the next generation of hardware to hit which should spawn some bargains on the current top hardware.
Considering my budget I do not want to overlook a quality case and PSU. The Coolermaster CM 690 II Advanced offers versatility with modular drive bays and the like. I don't know whether 750W will be enough though. To n... Read more
Excellent picks. Both of them should do fine for all your future upgrades.
I put my part of my one computer into a new case so I could make room for a new computer but I have a little problem now. All I did was to take all my parts out of my one case which I will be putting new parts in and put them into my new case and in my device manager now I have an exclamation mark in other devices and it says pci device. I did not put any new parts in I just had to take them out to move the mobod etc. The only thing I have in a pci slot is an audigy 2 zs gamer which has not caused me any problems before. It works great and everything seems to be fine. I have xp pro with an amd 4400+ along with and ati 2600xt.
Anyone seen this before?
Is there a PCI device that this could relate to? I.e. do you have another PCI device that this could be?
IF there is then it's possible that it got damaged when it was being moved to the other case.
What is the difference between a OEM and Retail case? TIA
OEM means Original Equipment Manufacturer. They are produced for a middleman to use building his machines to seel to the public.
Anything OEM generally has a shorter warranty, no documentation and few extras. For example, an OEM harddrive does not come with cables or install software. You get a drive, thats it. For an OEM case, you may or may not get a powersupply for example.
Retail on the other hand, gives you the full manf warranty, documentation and any extras there may be.
Unless OEM is significantly cheaper, I usually get the Retail version.
Plain and simple. I am looking for a computer case, mid or full tower ATX that has at least 2 120 mm fans, window or no window, that will provide good cooling and quality for the money.
i've looked into silverstone. and i've found this case to be of...decent..quality.
i'm looking to keep the price at a maximum of 135 dollars if you would please...i don't think i can afford anything better than that.
it needs good cooling because i plan on building a gaming rig with the following specs:
antec neo HE 550 watt
$99.99 + free
geforce 8800 gt pny 512mb
$269.99 + $6.33
amd athlon 64 x2 6000+ 3.0 ghz
159.99 + free shipping
asrock aliven mobo
$54.99 + $6.33
Gskill memory 2x 1gig sticks
$54.99 free shipping
so with specs like that, you can understand why i would want it to run cool at all costs.
let the hunt begin! :3
Hey link, have you looked at the antec 900 case. I know it is right at your budget limit but maybe by the time you buy all your parts it may go down some. I would love this case if I could afford it.
I've about decided to upgrade to Conroe and will give my old computer to my son. Thinking I am going with the Conroe E6600 processor where I can install a good video card. I want at least 500 watts of power. Would prefer a case that already has a good power supply installed, although I will buy them separately and put them together if that is needed to get the quality I want. Quality is my primary concern. Also, I tend to stay away from the mini-ATX motherboards, preferring the standard ATX MB's. Anyone have a good experience with prebuilt case/power supply combos? Thanks for your assistance.
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Hey there. I've recently got an upgraded Lenovo H50 from Best Buy two weeks ago and it's worked great, but I've noticed an upside down L indent on the right side of the case, closer to the power button one day. I know that I haven't done anything to it, so could any of you possibly know about this?
Mod's Edit: System model added to the front of Subject line to improve visibility / clarity.
Welcome to the Lenovo Community !
Posting a picture of the mark would be most helpful for those who may respond. You probably won't be able to add an image to your post in the forums due to being a first time visitor, but you can upload a photo to one of those photo sharing websites and copy and paste the link here.
I have recently bought the following items for my new computer.
Motherboard: Asus A8N-SLI Deluxe
Procesor: AMD Athlon 64 4000+ 2.4GHz San Diego
Memory:1 GB (2 pcs 512MB) DDR (400) PC-3200 Corsair w/LED Display (TWINX1024-3200XLPRO)
Video Card: eVGA GeForce 7800 GTX KO 256MB
Hard Disk :Western Digital 74 GB SATA 10K Raptor (WD740GD)
Now I need a good place to put this bad boy into. What is a good computer case/tower for cooling? What should I buy to keep this bad boy cool? CPU fan? other fans?
That is a nice system. Damn!
How about this for a case?
I'm going to buy a new computer case so that I can customize it etc. I want to put a window in the side panel, so I'm wanting someone to recommend the best way to go about it. (cutting etc)
I'm not personally too familiar with customizing cases, but I know if you do a web search for "case mod" or "case mods" you can usually turn up some pretty good information.
Also, I know alot of companies carry items to mod your case with like neon strips and such, and alot of times they have FAQ's right on their websites.
I've been shopping for a case to build my system around. This one is found at CompUSA and has a 300w PS though not a name brand. I did some digging on the web and actually found a review of this case. I was wondering what some of you guys think of its specs
Maybe some of you who have built systems would know if this type of case would make a decent build or not. I want to go with an Athlon XP1500 m/b in it. I don't know if I should buy my own PS to put in it or use the one it comes with, its a brand called Power-Win.
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Hi guys, I'm building a new PC and I was just looking for a case and a tv tuner. I am also accepting advice for other parts. Here is the Computer so far:
Processor: Intel Core 2 Duo E8500
Motherboard: Asus P5QL-EM
Hard Drive 1: Samsung SpinPoint F1 HD103UJ
Hard Drive 2: Samsung SpinPoint F1 HD103UJ
Optical Drive 1: LG GDR-8164B
Optical Drive 2: LG GDR-8164B
Graphics Chip 1: Inno3D GF GTX 280 Overclocked PCI-E 2.0
Graphics Chip 2: Inno3D GF GTX 280 Overclocked PCI-E 2.0
Sound Card: Creative Sound Blaster X-Fi Titanium Fatal1ty Champion Series
Network Card: Bigfoot Networks Killer NIC K1 Card
Wireless Networking: D-LINK DWA-542 Wireless 802.11 Draft N PCI Adapter 802.11B/G/N
Power Supply Unit: Amacrox Free Style AX1000-EP
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master V8
Operating System: Windows Vista Ultimate x86
Keyboard: Logitech Cordless Desktop Wave
Mouse: Microsoft Wireless Laser 6000
Monitor: Dell 2408WFP
Speakers: Logitech G51
I'd like the case to have good airflow and preferably to stop most noise at a decent price, (definitely no more than $150) and the TV Tuner to have dual receivers and recording abilities.
Thanks in advance
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I have been searching for a tower case to either build or have built, a new computer.
So far, it looks like a Chemming tower would be a good choice but in the reviews, I see people saying that you need very long SATA and IDE cables. They mention 36" cables. It seems like that is a pretty long cable to be using so I thought it might be good to ask for some opinions on these cases and that cable length.
I think 36 inch cables would be for server towers, if you are buying an ATX case then stardard length cables should be ok.
A friend dropped off an IBM 300 GL for repair but the case is locked and the key has been lost. How can I get inside the box?
1 - try a generic PC key, if you have any.
In the OLD days of 486s and beyond (AT cases) the key was a joke since there was only 2, maybe 3 different keys made Oh, thats keyboard Keylock. Still a joke.
2 - May have to HACK the case open, hacksaw, screw drivers. Metal shavings from damaging the case can easily short out the board...
3 - Try to locate another 300GL and hope it has a key that may open it, but considering that the GL series were the business line, that means there could be different keys depending on the purchaser.
I'm considering buying one of the cases and would like your opinion.
Thanks in advance.
Looks like it might be a little tricky to upgrade. Otherwise a fine looking case.
Hey there. I've recently got an upgraded Lenovo H50 from Best Buy two weeks ago and it's worked great, but I've noticed an upside down L indent on the right side of the case, closer to the power button one day. I know that I haven't done anything to it, so could any of you possibly know about this?More replies
I have this older computer case meant for a Duron process but I have been trying to adapt it to this Palamino processer with a MSI motherboard. I cannot seem to get the air flow right. I have been reading about it. I keep getting the blue screen when I close the sides of of my computer case. I have a fan in the front, air coming in and a fan in the back, air going out. But that wasn't not enough , so I cut a hole in the side and put a 92mm fan there. I'm thinking of putting this larger 120mm fan and cut a bigger hole. I have the air going in on the sides but the case still seems to get hot, causing system instability. As long as I have the sides open, I don't have any blue screen and not any problems. I'm thinking maybe I should have the air flowing out on the sides. Any ideas?
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i just built my own computer, but when i ordered it i ordered the wrong size case fans, would it be alright if i took off the sides of my computer and just used it with no case fans until i got some?
EVGA 9800 GTX SuperClocked
Sigma Shark PSU
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Hello. This may sound like a very stupid question, but I just got this computer for a great deal but the guy forgot to give me the key so I can't open it to upgrade it. Is there a simple way to pick the lock or perhaps a universal tool I can buy? From what I know, only the really old computers required keys, but I guess I was wrong. I tried to look this up on google, but once I typed in the word "key" into any sentence, all I got was threads about how to crack programs and stuff.
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Im looking for one big computer case that can hold at least 7+ 5" drive bays and 3 floppy drives. Id like it to be wide enough to accomodate lots an dlots of wires and pipes and fit my dual processing system If i chose to go down that road. This needs to be bigger than the average PC case for many reasons 1 being i dont like heat to get bunched up, I dont like working in small areas, I need room for massive modding, and heck i want it to look like how much I payed for the monster when im done. If anyone can help me a find a large sleek case preferably with a swinging door with window and handle (optional I can always add my own). Thanks in advance guys
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Logfile of Trend Micro HijackThis v2.0.2
Scan saved at 3:49:40 PM, on 8/13/2008
Platform: Windows XP SP2 (WinNT 5.01.2600)
MSIE: Internet Explorer v6.00 SP2 (6.00.2900.2180)
Boot mode: Normal
C:\Program Files\Common Files\Apple\Mobile Device Support\bin\AppleMobileDeviceService.exe
C:\Program Files\Nero\Nero8\Nero BackItUp\NBService.exe
C:\Program Files\Common Files\New Boundary\PrismXL\PRISMXL.SYS
C:\Program Files\Java\jre1.6.0... Read more
The only problem that I see here is that you don't have an Antivirus and Firewall running and that your Windows is not up to date.
Any reason why you don't secure your computer?
My existing PSU is very loud and the case doesn't look great.
What information shall I post so I can get help regarding the title.
Thanks in advance.
Your system specs are most important, it lets us know how much wattage you'll need to sufficiently power your rig and also the motherboard model will help us determine what size case you'll be needing as well. Once that is all posted, we can continue on to recommendations.9 more replies
I decided today to change my PC case, which I have done previously witout a hitch. However, today I bought a evil looking Demon ATX Computer Case and I can't figure out where to put the front panel wires. They are all marked oddly with "Data +1, Data -1, Gnd 1, VCC 1, etc. How do I know where they go? My motherboard book (GA-8IPE1000) does not make it very clear what I have to do to get anything to work. Any help would be appreciated. I have gone to Gigabytes homepage but really gleaned nothing there. I can't find a home page or manufacturer for the case. Thanks very much
If you saved the receipt, you can take it back and get an easier one. Or you might be able to ask the store where you bought it for help....
My friend let me have his old Cooler master 430 black elite, Im having trouble with it. My computer wont turn on, I know all my components work because they just came off my old case and they worked great. The difference between my case and this new case is the system panel cords(ie. hdd led, reset sw, power led, and power sw) are all seperate meaning there are 5 different cords compared to the one that my old case used to have one bundled up. I've looked online on how to connect these and nothing seems to work. Anyone know how to connect these cords to my intel g41 chipset?
you can get a Q-Connector or look for a diagram of your board and it will tell you what goes where. What board do you have?
This is my first post, so I will try to make this as good as possible! I just built my own computer which consists of a Gigabyte P35C-DS3R motherboard, Intel Core 2 Duo 6850 Conroe (3.0Ghz 1333 FSB) 500 watt UltraXfinity power supply dual 12V rails, Ballistix ram sticks for 2GB ddr2, Seagate 250GB Sata, and Foxconn Nvidia 8800 GTX card. Both me and my friend built this computer (he is more knowledgeable so he did most of the work while I learned). We assembled everything properly and attached it to the case, plugged in every wire nescessary and it didn't boot. We double and triple checked to make sure that all the basic wires were attached properly (trust me, we really checked stuff!) and it still didn't boot, so he decided to unhook everything except for the motherboard and its power supply cable and he tried to jump the Power button leads with a screwdriver to hot wire it and it didn't turn on. At this point, we figured we had a motherboard failure, but we took it out of the case and plugged it in and it fired up right away. In fact, I am typing this message right now and it is all assembled outside of the case and it is working great! I played some games with it and it also ran fine and Power supply unit is giving enough voltage/current/wattage for everything so that isn't the problem. We are stumped and nobody else knows what is going on because many of my friends are studying to be computer engineers and they have built their own systems an... Read more
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this is my case and i want to get a motherboard that is compatible with a Intel Core I5-4460 3.2GHz (Quad Core)
list all of them and there price thx
So I bought all the parts to build a new computer.
Slapped the bad boy together, tried to turn it on, NOTHING.
No lights, no fans, no noise.
Troubleshooted for awhile, Figured out that maybe it was the power switch on the new case. So I decided to put it into another case. It booted up just fine, ran it all night. No problems what so ever.
So I really want to use this new case. And thought that maybe I would try the reset switch plug in on the power plug in on the motherboard that's in the OLD case. Boots up just fine. So I think to myself ok great, so I'll just use the reset button as the power button no big deal.
Ummm..no, didn't work out that way.
So I plug everything back into the NEW case, use the reset switch plug on the power pins on the motherboard. NOPE. Same thing as before, won't boot up at all, no fans no lights nothing.
So at this point I'm pretty steamed So I pull everything out of the new case, and put it on a piece of cardboard, plug everything in the way it's suppose to be. Only thing I have are the ram, cpu/heatsink in the unit.
IT TURNS ON!!!!!
So everything runs fine placed into a different case, runs fine outside of the case, but will not run in the case. The only thing I can think of is something inside the case is shorting it out.
What could be causing this?
Thanks for any help.
Hello and welcome to TSG!!
Be sure none of the mounting standoffs are in a bad location for your motherboard. Sometimes cases will have optional locations to accommodate other boards, but one of those locations may intefere with circuitry on some boards. Verify very carefully the location of each metal standoff. Ensure that the area around each is clear. Often you will get plastic washers that can be used if a particular location looks a little iffy, or for extra safety (though they can be hard to work with, especially trying to use more than one or two!).
There should be no other part of the case that could interfere with the mounting, but look around thoroughly to be sure there is nothing contacting the board.
Are you sure the power supply in the new case is working? You can always connect the old one to test.
I wanted to upgrade my RAM so I get to plug in 1 GB of RAM and I guess I didn't set it up good and there was little smell like something is burnt. After fast shut down I removed the RAM I add and than tried to start up the computer, but only I got is fan spinning and no LED lights working on the case. No bios sound etc. Is it some condensator on the MB burnt.. Thanks in advance.
I have question my buddy is computer the light on the case was green and now its orange it was like that for long time now its red the computer is working fine.
Now is this because of power problem we had power outs and surges ..I don't know where is papper work is so can't look it up and is place is a mess and I don't what to spend all week going in is house trying to find it will I don't know will to start looking ..
Well I'm sure electronic guys know..
Also one of is other computer keep getting memory tests during the POST what wrong there..
I will talk to him see If I can get more info
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I was on the phone with HP customer service going around and around for 2 hours. I have a case number for a missing computer, but no one could help me. They could help me buy a computer or fix a computer. No one recognized my Case number but I got the Case number from HP. Please help!More replies
i deleted some 42 entries of IE plugins and n-case...and deleted a few more from Adware but every time my computer restarts some of them keep comin back ...
Also when i restart my comp bfr restarting i get the illegal operation error and then it restarts....
i alwys get this 2 entries everytime i scan my system with Adaware...please tell me how can i get rid of them...
Description:VX2 Variant, Malware. Causes Popups and may install unsolicited software
Description:VX2 Variant, Malware. Causes Popups and may install unsolicited software
this is my log from hijack also
Logfile of HijackThis v1.97.7
Scan saved at 2:23:50 PM, on 2/4/04
Platform: Windows 98 SE (Win9x 4.10.2222A)
MSIE: Internet Explorer v6.00 SP1 (6.00.2800.1106)
C:\PROGRAM FILES\ZONE LABS\ZONEALARM\ZLCLIENT.EXE
C:\PROGRAM FILES\MICROSOFT OFFICE\OFFICE\OSA.EXE
C:\PROGRAM FILES... Read more
spybot doesn't get rid of Look2Me...after deleting it ..i scanned it agian...and i got the same Look2Me...it just comes automatically
Look2Me: Class ID (Registry key, nothing done)
--- Spybot-S&D version: 1.2 ---
Hello, I was borrowing my folks' pc while mine was unavailable (long story), and accidentally clicked a link to a site that looked a bit dodgy. It was linked from a WoWwiki page I was browsing. I backed out, cleared the Firefox cache and ran a scan using Norton 360. The scan came up clean. I looked on the WoWpedia version of the article (offshoot version of the site because many of the contributors disagreed with recent Wikia changes, so it has largely identical content), and their page history showed the same linked had been removed by someone claiming it was a malware site.I have subsequently downloaded, installed, updated and scanned with: Spybot S&D, Ad-Aware, MalwareBytes, TrendMicro's Rootkit Buster, & Super ANTIspyware. I scanned all of them in safe mode, except TrendMicro's tool because it couldn't.Nothing was found by any of them.I haven't experienced any problems so far either.So, I apologize if I'm wasting anyone's time, but my parents aren't very computer-literate (I'm not particularly good either, heh), so I just wanted to be extra careful and make absolutely sure it's clear before I returned it. Anyway, I read your thread "Preparation Guide For Use Before Using Malware Removal Tools and Requesting Help" and followed all the instructions there.Here's the DDS log:.DDS (Ver_11-03-05.01) - NTFSx86 Run by Famicom at 22:08:37.44 on Sat 03/05/2011Internet Explorer: 8.0.6001.19019Microsoft? Windows Vista? Ho... Read more
Hello and welcome to Bleeping ComputerWe apologize for the delay in responding to your request for help. Here at Bleeping Computer we get overwhelmed at times, and we are trying our best to keep up. Please note that your topic was not intentionally overlooked. Our mission is to help everyone in need, but sometimes it takes just a little longer to get to every request for help. No one is ignored here.If you have since resolved the original problem you were having, we would appreciate you letting us know. If not please perform the following steps below so we can have a look at the current condition of your machine. If you are unable to create a log because your computer cannot start up successfully please provide detailed information about the Windows version you are using: What we in particular need to know is version, edition and if it is a 32bit or a 64bit system. [/b]If you are unsure about any of these caracteristics, just let us know and we'll help you figuring it out. Please also tell us if you have your Windows CD/DVD handy.Please include a clear description of the problems you're having, along with any steps you may have performed so far.Please refrain from running tools or applying updates other than those we suggest while we are cleaning up your computer. The reason for this is so we know what is going on with the machine at any time. Some programs can interfere with others and hamper the recovery process.Even if you have already provided information about y... Read more11 more replies
I want to buy another case.. i'm not exactly happy with the one my Aspire X1200 came with. Inadequate power supply/room for vid card. It's a low-end computer and i'm simply going to make do with it.
Are there any problems in doing this? Anything that would make it 'impossible' or something like that? Any tips?
I'm not exactly certain what you mean by the title. Anyway, here's the answer to the question I think you asked.
But, there are 2 different spec boards in common use. ATX which is about 12 x 9.6 inches, and Matx (M= micro) @ about 9.6 x 9.6 (some Matx boards are a bit smaller).
Matx boards mount on the same bolt pattern as ATX, but due to the smaller size, they only use about 2/3rds of the holes.
So, both ATX & Matx will fit in an ATX size case. But ATX will NOT fit in a case designed for Matx boards.